Since my last post I've added a '97 350 to the family. A little shake on highway has sent me into front spring bushes and for now the axles.

The Moog ball joints are REALLY tight going back in. They have fine ridges in the base where the ones I pressed out were smooth. I'm reading 1.746" diameter on the old and 1.756" on the new Moogs.

Am I on the wrong track? Or do I just press haaaarrrrder? Moog part# K80026 on Dana 60.

Thanks

 

Did you deep freeze them overnight?

 

No! Here they go.....
Thanks.

 

Just an FYI: The local NAPA machine shop pressed out the old and the new Moogs in for $10 each on my 97 D60.

 

Where did yall find Moogs? Their website just lists the lowers for our trucks unless I did it wrong..

 

Freezer for the ball joints and low heat in oven for knuckle, plus a little effort did the trick. Thank you cowmilker.

Amazon has Moog all over the place:

 

Freezing the ball joints works. The last time I did a ball joint job was in the middle of summer with the sun baking the knuckle, so I didn't have to add any extra heat.

 

golfnut324, what sort of shaking is motivating you? And has the new bushings and ball joints solved it?

 

I got Moog lowers and uppers from Rockauto, but that was for a D50. As I recall they had OEM Motorcraft too.

 

I have napa premium ones on my D50 year and half still nice and plumb

 

I think those are made by Spicer, same as OEM, that's what the NAPA guy told me, but I'm not 100% sure.

 

Leo - The shaking starts about 62 mph and smooths out a little at 72. I'm thinking the source is the spring shackle bushes so they will be replaced next. Since this is a new (for me) truck with 161k miles and I have a small leak from a hub seal I figured I would go through the axles and bearings. But after reading all of the shaking complaints I'm not sure all of this will smooth it out.

 

Thanks, that is about where mine comes in too.

Don't confuse a lot complaining with a lot of complainers. I may the one doing a lot of complaining.

I'll watch your progress if you don't mind.

 

Just to update - both axles are complete with all new seals (except the inner axle seal, fingers crossed), ball joints, wheel bearings, spindle bearings and u joints. Freezing the ball joints made pressing them into the knuckle easier.

Now to the shackle bushes. I'm going to poly bushes. Then a good alignment. Looking at threads for tips on changing shackle bushes.

Thanks for the help.

 

I did my shackle bushings awhile back. Maybe it was my poor technique (very likely) but it was a real pain in the rear. This may be more of a post on how not to do it rather than tips on how to do it. I'm sure there are easier and better methods but here's how it went for me. I tried various pullers and the bushings are really in there.

I ended up using a drill to drill out enough of the rubber bushing to allow a metal cutting sawzall blade to fit inside the spring eye. Then I sawed through the steel sleeve and once I got it sawed through I punched it out with a cold chisel. I didn't have a problem with sawing into the spring itself, the blade touched it once or twice but just left a polished spot and a dull blade.

In hindsight, it may be simpler in the long run to undo the spring shackles and remove the springs altogether and press out the old bushings with a hydraulic press.

Once the new poly bushing were in place, when I went to replace the spring bolts I had to use a come-along to get the springs into alignment so I could get the bolts started.

I haven't tackled my ball joints yet, and you being a veteran ball joint installer may find the shackle bushings an easier project than I did. Hope so

Bob