Besides originality, is there anything better about the soft original dash pad (available from Motorheaven) that should keep me from buying the hard plastic repo cover (I think Coverlay makes it)?

Has anyone else used the Hard plastic cover and fond it unacceptable for any reason? I've seen the hard plastic one and I was hard pressed to notice it wasn't original at first glance.

The price difference is huge ($100-$250), I'd rather buy an aluminum intake before paying that much for a dash pad, unless it is that much better to have then the plastic cover.

 

I'd say its all prefrance. I myself took mine off and painted the dash with the rest of the truck. I like the metal painted look but on the other hand am waiting to find a deal on a new or in good shape original pad to finish off my crewcab. The pad might deaden some of the noise coming from the engine and wiper motor noise also. But one thing is for sure they are pricey.On a last note i just wanted to say good luck on the truck my first one was a 69 250 camper special with all the trim and i did some unspeakable things to it in hopes to make it look cool but in the end original looking is what I should of shot for, so keep in mind that the stock look never gets old.

 

Thanks for the good luck note.

I didn't even think about the possibility of removing the pad and leaving it all metal, GREAT IDEA!!! I always loved the painted metal dash in my Dad's '60 Chevy pickup. Ford FE V8 motor noise is music to my ears so no problem with sound deadening.

I plan to keep it mostly stock as possible. I do plan to go with 17" steel wheels and mooneyes discs on the wheels and maybe the lower 2"front/4"rear springs from JC Whitney (no ibeam lowering since it will be a daily driver and boat tower). I have all of the original metal trim and I sure hope it is restorable (many dents but all there - boy is the replacement side molding expensive, what's the deal with that???). So it will look mostly all original but nice and shiny. I will also keep the two tone paint, but instead of black and white, the white will be silver. And as many Mooneyes accessories as possible (appropriate since my last name is Mooney)

One other question, I don't plan to get power steering so how would that *** wood steering wheel be in that scenario? Is it as big as the stock steering wheel? I may get my cool stock wheel repaired and find a nice horn ring but if I can't do that the big wood wheel from *** will have to do.

Herb Mooney
Lake Meade, PA
67 F100 352

 

When removing pad you will find some holes and slots. If going for broke, they get welded up and filled just like trim and gas filler and seams. Otherwise ... Side note: If only lowering 2" you might save bucks for something else, IMO no one will notice. And though I know JC is easy and I have bought from them, I'd research something like springs really good, there is a big company in Kansas that everyone gets replacement and custom springs from (probably JC does too). Do a Google for coil springs and you'll find many. After trying through FTE of course. Grant makes a good 15" Steering Wheel (2" smaller than stock) (mine is 13 yrs old from Pep Boys) for a $100. or so. Good Luck and if you haven't gotten to the 67 Registry you should.

 

The wheel is 2in smaller than the original,it's nice but when I have the cash for a repro from Dennis Carpenters or motorhaven if they have it I'm gonna swap it out.

 

The original idea for padding was protection in a crash (without seatbelts) so your head would not get cracked. The reality is unbuckled (if the truck had them) you are more likely to hit the windshield or your knees are going under the dash.

If you are wearing your seatbelt and the accident is severe enough to dump any part of the dash on your legs in a 70s truck your leg is going to be broken and you will most likely be dead anyways.

So, do whatever you find pleasing or cheaper :-)

BTW: I think the original pads look nicer.

 

I think padded dashes came after seat belts because if you were wearing one your face hit the dash.
Another option on the dash is the 50s look of having it upolstered. I would think you could get a nice looking job done for a fraction of the cost of a reproduction. I had a nice blue pad spotted in a washington junk yard but didn't get it when I should have for $20. I went back a few months later and it was gone.
The biggest wheel I have found is the 15" also. I have a wood one on my 72 that is made by Superior. I got it from NAPA years ago. It is the classic 3 spoke with holes in the spokes. The last one I bought was 10 years ago so I don't know if they still have them but for manual steering it is a bit small unless you have really skinney tires. You can look in Hemmings and find steering wheel restoration services but they are pricey. I don't know what you are looking for but I found a 67 in the junkyard Saturday with a white steering wheel. I got the deluxe horn ring off it for another fellow FTE subscriber but lost his address and he hasn't answered my post. With a little research you should be able to come up with a good epoxy paint or something suitable.

 

While you folks are talking about the '67 padded dash cover, could one of you tell me how to remove the original cover. Mine is in bad shape and I am having the same dilema as the originator of this thread, dash pad or plastic cover......

 

I personally have done both- the painted dash, and the cover. I prefer the new cover, I paid $200 since it was on sale at Cal. Pickup Truck. Yeah, on sale, and still $200. It completed my interior and might just save a few teeth in the case of an accident. The painted dash looked good I guess, but since I did replace everything in my interior (seatbelts to arm rests) I figured a dash pad would look good and it really does add to the interior. I think you have to at least have a dash pad on there first to then add the plastic cover though, never seen one in action but I would advise a real one if you dont mind the $$$$.
Tristin

http://onefine69.classicbroncos.com
"You can light my truck on fire and roll it down a hill and I still wouldnt trade it for a Coup DeVille"

 

Oh yes, and too remove the dash pad you have about 10-16 bolts to screw off- you'll need to remove the gauge cluster, radio/CD player, and glove box. You dont need to remove all of that, but it makes them alot easier to get to. Just reach up under the dash lip and screw em off, then about 8 inches back there should be 4 more, spaced about 10 inches apart. Or thats how I remember it.

 

I'll trade you rear bumpers...

 

Other stuff from previous threads on the subject.\
Joe

I took my dashpad off just the other day. There are several nuts,towards the front of the dash and double check the corners where it is close to the posts. When you are sure all the nuts are off. Take and put your fingers under the front edge of the pad and pull like crazy all acroos the front of it. After it breaks lose;push up on it and that should do it---------- Good Luck
June 03
There are about 6 nuts coming down through the top of the dash. About in the middle of the pad. Then there are another 5 to 7 coming through the front edge of the dash. That's it, no glue. But the studs can kinda hold in on.

Larry
Lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
There are 6 nuts along the leading edge of the dash. There are 8 under the top of the dash. On my 72, some of the nuts (under the top of the dash) were serving double-duty as a way to hold a plastic wire-loom support under the dash. I missed it at first and couldn't figure out why the dash wasn't coming out.
Ohio Bill
Bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
This can be done, and then holes filled, and dash painted, but you might be better off with a new "cap" that fits right over existing. I have painted, because I really wanted it.
Hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
It's not glued but it is probably stuck on like mine was. It will leave some residue but it cleans right off with soap and water. When you pull it off, be sure and lift up on the windshield side (front) first until the bolts clear the metal dash. Then pull straight back to you. This will keep the leading edge bolts from scratching up you nice painted metal dash.
jor

 

I am fixing to vinyl, velour all metal in one of the 250 crews I have. Flat velour on main base of doors (under window). Vinyl on window frames. Textured velour on door panels. Velour headliner. Vinyl on dash, kick panels, door posts, and probally any other metal showing that I have not mentioned. Along with new gauges for my F-500 instrument cluster, should fit nicely. Oh, it's all in a tan color.
Can't you just see me gleeming

Robert P.

 

Hard cap over padded; tried it and it is junk. It looks great after you apply it with silicone and pull it down with tie string along dash to dry over night but it doesn't like sunshine and will start to pop up on the edges looking like a cap over padded dash. I got lucky and found a company in California who had some padded repo dashes and I got one for $40.00 but he has long been sold out.

 

Where did you find the side molding? I'm trying to bring my truck back to stock-ish.