Hi I just put a new engine in my 2004 FX4, When I fired it up it ran like a turd. It set P2006 Intake manifold runner control stuck closed bank 1, I pulled the intake back off and verified the rods were hooked up and removed the valve, I cleaned the butterfly valves for each cylinder and made sure that they moved freely, I installed a new IMRC/CMCV being very careful not to move it when putting the rods on and bolting it down. It runs better now but is still sluggish and the code re set 20 miles after driving. Does Anyone have any advice for me, I am going to try and command it with a scan tool tomorrow and watch it with a bore scope, is there any way the knock sensor wires, brake booster hose or harness could be making the rods bind? But why only one side setting the code? Any help is appreciated!

PS if there is a ford tech out there that could send me the diagnostic information/procedure for this dtc that would be awesome!

 

Don't know if my CMCV experience can help, but I'll try. First: I had trouble with the CHT and CMCV wiring rubbing the IMRC linkage on the passenger side. Finally decided/learned that wiring had to be routed "between" the linkage and the rear of the IM - definitely NOT the easiest way to route it while installing the IM. Also, I put new vacuum hose to the brake booster and eliminated the factory hookup. Had some trouble routing that AWAY from the driver's side linkage.


Secondly: It sounds as though you have access to a scan tool. I've done a lot of "hacking" the OBDII system on my truck and have found three non-published PIDs associated with the charge motion control system.

IMRC (IMSC) PID # hex 1103, bit 4 - Intake Manifold Runner (Swirl) Control ON/OFF
IMRC F (IMSC F) PID # hex 162F bit 6 - Intake Manifold Runner (Swirl) Control Fault YES/NO
IMRCM PID # hex 1634 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Monitor Input VOLTS
The first one turns "ON" any time the third one changes value either direction. The third produces a two byte response and is supposed to be VOLTS, but doesn't seem to me to be volts. It is rather a positive or negative number between 0 and about 380 decimal. The PCM cannot generate negative VOLTS, so this must be a binary number indicating the desired set position it should move to ??? I've created a custom gauge on my Torque Pro screens that roughly shows degrees open between 0 and 90.


Thirdly, BUT more important. I see NO mechanical method the PCM can determine one bank is "Stuck" open or closed. There is only ONE linkage actuator and no position switch on either runner. If one is stuck - the other is too. However there are DTC codes for Stuck OPEN and Stuck Closed for BOTH banks. This tells me the PCM has to attempt to determine P2006 based on OTHER parameters - such as O2 sensors, Mass Air Flow, vacuum reading (which is common to both banks), misfire counts, perhaps catalyst tests or cyl power output based on acceleration spikes in crankshaft rotation speed - ????. I do not see HOW the PCM can figure this out! If your CMCV & linkage seems to be OK, I would be suspicious of other sensors or conditions that might be involved in DTC determining DTC code 2006.

 

bringing back to life this thread.

Recently i replaced my engine and installed a new intake with new imrc.

I'm getting the 2006 code every 100 miles or so. Took off the intake today and everything seems ok apart from the fact that the harness that is normally held by a nut on the back of the intake was just hanging.

My take is that this harness was somehow interfering with the opening and closing action but im not sure why the code was only triggered for the passenger side bank, if it was the cable not allowing the linkages to close it should be on BOTH banks...

Did you ever got your issues resolved? Were you also receiving a code only for one bank and after fixing the cable routing everything went ok?

 

@energumeno


I wish I could give you some 'intelligent' guidance, but this little contraption succeeded in beating this insautiously curious ole man down. Thank god, after replacing my IM (w/ new IMRC), I have had no further vacuum leak or lean codes or problems associated with the IMRC. But all my continuing analysis of OBDII data from it as discussed in Post #2 above only got more confusing.


I agree with you that with solid mechanical linkage between IMRC and both banks - how the hell can the PCM report a DTC that says the runners are stuck open / closed on one bank? ** UNLESS ** the DTC is always on the same bank because the linkage to that bank became disconnected, broken or truly stuck open/closed. I suppose the PCM could determine from O2 sensor feedback, or possibly combustion power produced in one bank if intake vanes stayed closed - or stayed open on one bank. But short of that there is simply no electrical feedback that could be bank specific.


I can also say, if the code that is popping up every 100 miles or so, is occurring under warmer ambient temperatures, higher load or higher RPM conditions (as can be observed in freeze frame data), I would be highly suspicious of something mechanically wrong or disconnected on that bank. It is just almost IMPOSSIBLE to visually inspect them. Also NOTE in post #2 that I determined my harness wiring to CHT and IMRC had to be routed 'in front of' the Bank 1 IMRC linkage to not rub on the linkage rod (contrary to what appears logical).


In my quest for constructing an analogue Gauge on my Torque Pro app to indicate its "Position", I got further stymied. I thought I had PID # hex 1634 - "Intake Manifold Runner Control Monitor Input VOLTS" all worked out nicely showing Degrees open from Zero to 90 degrees. Then I stuck a camera back there (that was a bitch kitty) and went for a drive. My gauge didn't mean $*@@$_%! Position = no relationship to input volts OBD II signal.


I had determined (incorrectly) that PID # hex 1103, bit 4 - "Intake Manifold Runner (Swirl) Control ON/OFF" going ("ON") enabled the input volts signal to proportionally set position. NOT SO. The camera confirmed when the 1103-b4 goes true - the IMRC valve 'slams' wide open 90º. When it goes false, it slams closed 0º. AND IT IS _NOT_ simply RPM based as many write-ups indicate. It's opening/closing varies widely relative to ambient temperature, intake air temperature, Coolant temperature, RPM, Engine Load, and perhaps all kinds of other stuff ???.


So I trashed my Torque App analogue gauge and just use an ON/OFF light indicator labeled OPEN / CLOSED.


Good luck

 

Is it possible to replace runner valve without removing intake?

 

No! It is 'bearly' possible by removing it - given the limited space back there to reconnect vacuum hoses and electrical connectors.

 

Yes! F150Torqued it is possible! I just did it! I don't think it has helped my low power problem, but it is possible to change runner valve without removing intake. I removed throttle body & fuel rail & I was able to change it.

 

Holly Molley. You must have hands bout the size of a Raccoon. And after that job I'd be willing to bet you got a couple or three extra belly button holes from that dam hood latch too. BUT all joking aside - thanks for setting me straight. I've changed mine (by removing the IM) and I would have bet everything on it not even being possible.

Thank goodness mine works fine - although I do not understand the damn GIZZMO yet. I've spent endless hours trying to figure it out - HOW it decides one bank or the other is stuck open or closed, or what the PCM does with the MONITOR signal from it (Pin 4). I've Disassembled one, tested it on a board, monitored it VIA OBDII endlessly and watched it operate with a bore scope and still do not have it's total overall benefit figured out.

As far as I can figure out - the PCM does some sort of Volumetric Efficiency calculations with the CMCV valve open and closed - compared to fuel/air ratio indications from O2 sensor feedback, and effect of RETARD to determine if CMCV is stuck open or closed. I think a leaky IM gasket, injector 'O' ring, or even a burned valve would upset those calculations and give a false "STUCK OPEN" or "STUCK CLOSED" indication.

 

Racoon hands is right . Kudo's to you . I wouldn't advise trying it for the avg guy .My big hands would be all chewed up . A lot of engines have dried out intake gaskets so its not a bad thing to put new gaskets on to eliminate leaks . Plus you get to clean intake gunk out .

 

How do I locate the proper IMRC I need? Rock Auto is currently out of stock, EBay has only used and Amazon has only non OEM. 3L3E-9G730-EA
I have read twice and made best to digest Your IMRC analysis above Torqued but all I got out of it was I don't need to change it even though there's an engine code for both banks stuck open because I have a slough of older parts on truck that most likely were helping the code being thrown for stuck open.
What's a good way to clean butterfly valves and whole IM that'll clear some carbon and be able to dry out the hollow and sealed insides?
Last question is: this part that I'm yet to identify that came out of IM. Does it always look like this or should it be replaced?

My mystery IMRC.

Couldn't find one of these new so decided not to be lazy and clean this one without damaging hopefully.

 

The linkage on the other end is plastic and subject to wear and fail . Routing of wires is not intuitive and frequently jams runner linkage .04 intake had passenger side small fittings for some vacuum . 05 did away with that and used a metal wye near brake booster . Much easier to deal with, small port on pass side would pop out and was hard to get back on . 05 intake did not have small hole drilled out so its best to modify yours to go to metal wye rather than drill it out . Just for info . Easy to jam this linkage back there .

 

My butterfly valves don't rotate 180° I'm about to got take the IMRC off and check if they will open more then. I found the heated pcv part finally.

 

Is it a good idea to take the torx head screws out of what looks to be a plate holding the four butterfly valves and rod so that I can independently clean the carbon off? My apologies for asking so many questions but I can't seem to find much online about the subject

 

I guessed that was a pcv heater . Not needed much in fl . Intake r control - It says do not rotate by hand ,I have not messed with mine . And I do hear it has a position wire in it but not variable ,maybe just off base .You can get an indication on torque pro if its open . Complicated as to when it does open not easy to test .

 

Done took engine apart, Torque Pro can't help me now haha