So I'm trying to fix this wiring issue I'm having. The harness leading from the alternator to the voltage regulator and solenoid is over heating, obviously from a ground to hot issue. On the harness are two quick disconnects that were plugged in to each other. This is where it was burning up. There is only one quick disconnect plug coming from the main harness that you can plug into. It has two posts, one yellow and one green and yellow wire. Now my problem is the main wiring harness in this truck is from a 1973 F350 dually while this setup at the alternator is from the old harness that was in this truck, which was for a 1979 F150. So, with that being said, I just got off the phone with Summit and they suggested changing out to this newer alternator which only has a one wire hook up. Its internally regulated so it should allow me to bypass this problem. Here is the info on the alternator,

-- Brand:Tuff Stuff Performance
Manufacturer's Part Number:7068
Part Type:Alternators and Generators
Product Line:Tuff Stuff One-Wire Alternators
Summit Racing Part Number:TFF-7068

UPC:698252004237
Advertised Amperage Output:100 amps
Voltage Compatibility:12
Alternator Case Style:GM 10si
One-Wire Capable:Yes
Pulley Included:Yes
Pulley Style:V-belt
Regulator Included:Yes
Regulator Style:Internal
Belt Included:No
Alternator Brackets Included:No
Alternator Finish:Natural
Quantity:Sold individually.
Notes:This alternator is 1-wire or 3-wire capable. Special GM-style case with Ford mounting. V-belt pulley accommodates 3/8 in. wide belts. --

as well as a picture of this POS harness that the previous owner hacked apart.





Let me know if you need a picture of the wiring at the main harness as well. My question is, will this new alternator allow me to fix this wiring issue with a bypass, or do I need to piece together a new alternator harness and voltage regulator wiring. If so, do you guys have any advice as to how I proceed.

As always, any help is GREATLY appreciated

 

Since you're having problems, I would go ahead and change to an internally regulated unit. The summit one will work, but check out the 3G upgrade for a less expensive option.



https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...g-upgrade.html

 

Now this will eliminate the voltage regulator all together, So I will only need to hook up the alternator to the solenoid and run a hot wire to the choke? Am I understanding this correctly?

 

sorry, trying to read up on your posts here and figure this out. pardon my ignorance.

 

Yep, search for posts on "3G" upgrades (3G = third generation alternator) and you'll find quite a bit of info. There should be links in HIO's sticky thread.

 

As general comment, the Ford case style 10si single wire alternators can work quite well. Run a heavy charge wire, minimum 8 gauge, preferably 6 gauge, to the starter relay stud and the alternator will work well. Circuit protection recommended (either fusible link 2 gauge sizes smaller than the charge wire or fuse ~125 A). Need to add an accessory voltmeter on an ignition switched source to monitor system condition as the ammeter will be non functional. I run the Summit version of this alternator. Works great in my application.

Will it solve your wiring issues? Maybe. If you have a short or other issues, best to identify the problem and fix it or thoughtfully eliminate any problem redundant circuits to prevent repeat problems.