Alright gentlemen,

If you read my last post you will see that I'm not a very smart guy. So as I mentioned I broke the stud to the black wire. Now I have a new fuel pump that I can't use. Was wondering if this has every happened to anyone and if there is a fix. It looked Like I could remove the broken stud but when I place in my vice and tried to remove it would not budge. I still have the old pump and it works so I can just put it back.

Have a Happy Fourth

Gilbert

 

Pump is located on the inside of the driver side frame rail, right beneath the driver seat.

Some would suggest disconnecting the ground from EACH battery before beginning. Diesel is not nearly as flammable as gasoline, though, so I'm not sure that it's absolutely necessary.

Two wires to remove and re-connect.

Need to get a quick-disconnect fuel line tool.

Clamp the fuel lines on each side of the pump before disconnecting.

Remove pump.

Install new pump.

Re-connect pump wires.

Remove clamps.

Reconnect battery grounds (if you disconnected them).

Cycle the pump 3-5 times before starting the engine.

Run another 50-100 miles to eliminate all the air from the fuel injectors.

 

Thanks F250

 

Like Pete said, not really a big deal. Just like changing a fuel filter on a gas engine truck with the addition of 2 electric lines on it. No where near as tough as the 95 other than the part about laying under the truck and trying to not get diesel to drip on you.

 

I had to change mine in North Dakota this winter, I wish I remembered the clamp on both sides deal. I smelled like diesel for a day or two haha.

 

I removed the entire fuel pump bracket from the frame which made it pretty easy. 3 nuts on the outboard side, disconnect the lines, wires, and swap in the new pump. Make sure the nipple is free from debris. Mine punched a hole through the protective orange cap and the "hole" was lodged inside the nipple. I used a scribe to extract it, glad I noticed that.

 

Yeah... the last time I inspected my tool bag in the truck, I made sure it still had the two small clamps for any similar fuel system repair when I'm away from the tool boxes at the house.

 

Just did another one last weekend . I find it easy to just remove the clamp screw entirely (7mm if I remember).
Unhook fuel lines
Pull down on the bottom side of clamp and slide pump out rear side of clamp.
Then unhook wires. . Wires are long enough to pull out before disconnecting . Harder in the clamp to get to wire connection nuts with brake lines and such.

Oh. You need To pinch off the tank side fuel line or The fuel will keep coming and coming. .

 

Thanks everyone great advice. BUT... y'all forgot to mention not to over tighten the nut on the stud because they break very easy... Lol. Yep that's what I did. Now I have a new fuel pump with a broken stud on the black wire side. Not sure what to do now. I guess I can't return. Will have to order another one. I tried to take stud off and replace it with my old one but it wouldn't budge. Any ideas? Bobs going to be out till Monday will give him a call and see what he say. Have a Happy Fourth of July

Gilbert

 

Ouch...I did that once on a new coil. Yes, you have to buy a new one. The studs are small and snug is all that is needed. Happy 4th!

 

Solder a pig tail. For future reference, most electrical studs are 10 INCH POUNDS or less.

 

Thomas,

I was thinking about that but I kind of messed up the blue plastic that surrounds the nut. Might still give it a go.

 

Can you drill a hole in what is left of the base of the stud and tap it for a screw?

 

Not sure. will play with it when I get home.

Seems like solder would be the best/safest route. The fuel pump is aluminum? Would it take a special type of solder.

 

Yes. Drill it and put a screw in it.