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Ford econoline e350 RV overheating on traffic

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  #46  
Old 07-10-2015, 11:13 AM
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No the temp guage comes with it's own sender...
So that means I have to disable the factory installed one? Is there a way I could have both working?
 
  #47  
Old 07-10-2015, 10:05 PM
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No way to see both working because you would need another hole in the intake water jacket or some other convenient place or a tee and that is way too stupid for me...Yes ..once you unplug the Factory POS you need to mount the New guage wherever you want and you Install the sender in the factory location...give it 12 V and maybe a light and your are done...there are many ways to do it ...You can even buy a stick on Pod type...something like this....Gauges - Speedhut
Or Ebay
 
  #48  
Old 07-13-2015, 10:07 AM
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No way to see both working because you would need another hole in the intake water jacket or some other convenient place or a tee and that is way too stupid for me...Yes ..once you unplug the Factory POS you need to mount the New guage wherever you want and you Install the sender in the factory location...give it 12 V and maybe a light and your are done...there are many ways to do it ...You can even buy a stick on Pod type...something like this....Gauges - Speedhut
Or Ebay
Thanks I've bought a temp gauge already. Just didn't know where to hook it up. I'll look by the distributor and see if I could find where the old one is hooked up.
 
  #49  
Old 07-13-2015, 10:11 AM
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check when it's hot in traffic
220 is high but tolerable, 250 definitely is not.
So I tested it in traffic and temp was between 225-230 and temp outside was maybe 83 or 85. Is this normal still? Just wondering when temp. outside would be in the 90's the temp might rise more. Any thoughts?
 
  #50  
Old 07-13-2015, 02:45 PM
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That's high for an iron block but if it's not puking coolant I'd be semi-ok with it.
How long does it take to get to that temp?
 
  #51  
Old 07-13-2015, 04:27 PM
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That's high for an iron block but if it's not puking coolant I'd be semi-ok with it.
How long does it take to get to that temp?
I'd say about 10-15 min of city driving. When I went up a hill that is where it took off.
So what your saying 230 is fine? What if it goes pass that when weather is hotter? should I be concerned?
 
  #52  
Old 07-13-2015, 06:45 PM
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For an iron motor, that's about the upper limit but as I said, if you are not puking water out, you are probably ok for awhile.
This may seem odd but what oil are you using and is it topped off? How old is it?
Synthetic will help if you are not running it.
Oil temp is as important as water temp, if not more.

I have run iron motors at 230 for extended periods with no harm. But they were chevy's
 
  #53  
Old 07-13-2015, 07:10 PM
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For an iron motor, that's about the upper limit but as I said, if you are not puking water out, you are probably ok for awhile.
This may seem odd but what oil are you using and is it topped off? How old is it?
Synthetic will help if you are not running it.
Oil temp is as important as water temp, if not more.

I have run iron motors at 230 for extended periods with no harm. But they were chevy's
I don't know what brand of oil the mechanic used but I know it was not synthetic and it was just done about a month ago. And when it run the oil gauge shows about 3/4 way. Does that tell you anything?

So is there anything I could do to have temp go lower?
 
  #54  
Old 07-13-2015, 07:24 PM
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did you replace the lower radiator hose , when they are old they can collapse and reduce the coolant flow ?

If all else has not worked to lower the temperature you are left with installing a higher flow waterpump and or a larger radiator. You have a large motor in a small space it needs all the help it can get. Do you have a tranny cooler ? If not install one the bigger the better this will take some of the cooling load off the main radiator.
Good luck problems like this are never easy .
 

Last edited by richter roxs; 07-13-2015 at 07:27 PM. Reason: more better
  #55  
Old 07-13-2015, 07:38 PM
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did you replace the lower radiator hose , when they are old they can collapse and reduce the coolant flow ?

If all else has not worked to lower the temperature you are left with installing a higher flow waterpump and or a larger radiator. You have a large motor in a small space it needs all the help it can get. Do you have a tranny cooler ? If not install one the bigger the better this will take some of the cooling load off the main radiator.
Good luck problems like this are never easy .
All the hoses were replaced and I do see a transmission cooler. Do you happen to know what is the normal capacity of the radiator for this? When I filled it up it took almost 4 gallons I don't know if that is enough or not.
 
  #56  
Old 07-13-2015, 07:46 PM
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Exactly....I would also consider getting a better ( read Aluminium ) Rad ..I realize you installed a new one But it seems you need a higher cooling capacity ...Or have you thought about switching to Electric Fans ? That means eliminating the stock fan and Installing Electric ones with their own controls ? A lot of Hot rodders do it ....
 
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:08 PM
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Exactly....I would also consider getting a better ( read Aluminium ) Rad ..I realize you installed a new one But it seems you need a higher cooling capacity ...Or have you thought about switching to Electric Fans ? That means eliminating the stock fan and Installing Electric ones with their own controls ? A lot of Hot rodders do it ....
I don't want to really spend more than what is necessary and my wife feels it's just a money pit. That is why I'm going to this forum to find out if this is normal and hopefully find the cheapest and most effective way to keep this temp under control. Would you suggest just using an auxiliary fan to push air from the front?
 
  #58  
Old 07-13-2015, 10:20 PM
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I feel bad that your wife influencing your decision...But I am talking about something like this or 2 of them ...and you remove your Stock Clutch Fan and rely on the electric ones instead....this is Not a new concept....
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/flx-398/overview/
 
  #59  
Old 07-14-2015, 12:56 AM
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your wife is right it is a money pit , but once it is sorted out it will be a fairly reliable vehicle.

check the timing , retarded timing will make motors run hot also.

230 is to hot ,your engine and tranny will thankyou if you can get the temps down.
also is your overflow tank working , do you see a rise in the fluid amount when warm and a reduction when cold ?
 
  #60  
Old 07-14-2015, 10:10 AM
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I feel bad that your wife influencing your decision...But I am talking about something like this or 2 of them ...and you remove your Stock Clutch Fan and rely on the electric ones instead....this is Not a new concept....
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/flx-398/overview/
I know but she is going back to school and we need all the money we could save for her to finish school. Regarding the "electric fans" why can't I just add a push fan infront and leave the fan clutch alone. Wouldn't that be the same?

your wife is right it is a money pit , but once it is sorted out it will be a fairly reliable vehicle.

check the timing , retarded timing will make motors run hot also.

230 is to hot ,your engine and tranny will thankyou if you can get the temps down.
also is your overflow tank working , do you see a rise in the fluid amount when warm and a reduction when cold ?
My RV does not have an overflow tank. I was planning to buy one but there is no space to put one.
 


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