MAP
#1
#2
Map is based off of air flow/pressure in the intake.
In the morning before you crank it should read atmospheric pressure 14.9 at sea level you are above sea level a bit I would guess. MAP will increase as throttle increases, more air moveing thru the intake. Baro should remain the same but Map and EBP will change in response to throttle.
Before you crank key on engine off your baro;map and ebp should be within 2 psi of each other. Rule of thumb.
In the morning before you crank it should read atmospheric pressure 14.9 at sea level you are above sea level a bit I would guess. MAP will increase as throttle increases, more air moveing thru the intake. Baro should remain the same but Map and EBP will change in response to throttle.
Before you crank key on engine off your baro;map and ebp should be within 2 psi of each other. Rule of thumb.
#3
Map is based off of air flow/pressure in the intake.
In the morning before you crank it should read atmospheric pressure 14.9 at sea level you are above sea level a bit I would guess. MAP will increase as throttle increases, more air moveing thru the intake. Baro should remain the same but Map and EBP will change in response to throttle.
Before you crank key on engine off your baro;map and ebp should be within 2 psi of each other. Rule of thumb.
In the morning before you crank it should read atmospheric pressure 14.9 at sea level you are above sea level a bit I would guess. MAP will increase as throttle increases, more air moveing thru the intake. Baro should remain the same but Map and EBP will change in response to throttle.
Before you crank key on engine off your baro;map and ebp should be within 2 psi of each other. Rule of thumb.
#5
#6
Map is the amont of air comeing into the engine. EBP is the amount of air leaving the engine. Baro is the amount of air avaialable to be pulled into the engine.
Correlation of the three gives you the amount of boost that your turbo is giveing.
Boost is like pumping the bellows on a forge it makes the fire[combustion] hotter.
Hotter combustion = more energy produced in the combustion event.
More energy = faster you can go or more you can pull.
Correlation of the three gives you the amount of boost that your turbo is giveing.
Boost is like pumping the bellows on a forge it makes the fire[combustion] hotter.
Hotter combustion = more energy produced in the combustion event.
More energy = faster you can go or more you can pull.
#7
Map should go down as elevation goes up, the air is thinner up high and really, BARO is air density. It does go up and down with the weather as well, storms coming should drop and high bluebird skies make it raise.
Cold air is more dense, why cold air intakes are popular and cooler temps mean more power. For every one degree of colder air in a gasser, they say 1 HP... why some drag cars ice the intake and why nitrous oxide requires more fuel to prevent it from going lean.
Cold air is more dense, why cold air intakes are popular and cooler temps mean more power. For every one degree of colder air in a gasser, they say 1 HP... why some drag cars ice the intake and why nitrous oxide requires more fuel to prevent it from going lean.
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#8
#10
Just to split hairs . Map and baro both simply measure pressure. You can infer or even closely calculate density using those values. MAP isn't a measure of volume either. It's part of the equation (it's the tweak at the end that makes the PCM's calculation exact) but the main figures need for that are bore, stroke, and RPM. Volume is calculated using the MAF sensor. Hence the name Mass Air Flow. Both MAP and MAF are commonly used on boosted engines for better accuracy, and both are affected by the temp of the air coming into the engine (IAT1&2). The baro is direct reading and isn't buffered by temp.
#11
I got all that but I didn't see any hard numbers posted to tell me if mine is doing what it supposed to??? again, mine is at 15 idling and increases as I accelerate to highway speed to around 25ish and will go a bit higher when I go wot (or as close as I come to that) so do those numbers look right? I ask because when I go over 22-22 lbs boost my scan gauge still is going to -14.5 (which I understand is my baro number) and have yet to figure out why. My dash boost gauge shows 27-28 when wot. Also I have now way to read EBP but I've entered the other numbers I was told to in my earlier post about this problem.....thanks for the help with this problem too.
#12
Thats an issue with scangauge going to a negative number. I dont use one but I think the correct fix is in this post https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...can-guage.html
go down to the MAP settings and have a read.
go down to the MAP settings and have a read.
#13
It should be the same as BARO with KOEO and EBP =MAP=BARO before the truck is running, KOEO. Once the truck starts, EBP and MAP go up a couple pounds at idle and higher with throttle. BARO never changes.
MAP at 15 is good, increasing with throttle is what needs to happen.
Boost is going to -14.5, then the x-gauge is wrong, same if MAP is doing that, it's the gauges programming.
MAP at 15 is good, increasing with throttle is what needs to happen.
Boost is going to -14.5, then the x-gauge is wrong, same if MAP is doing that, it's the gauges programming.
#14
#15
Try this one:
Yea, MAP is a standard gauge - but this XGauge is actually better than the standard one. It has a larger range which was needed because the standard gauge tops out around 37 psi absolute (about 22 lbs of boost), which diesels have no problem doing. This one should read well beyond 22lbs of boost.
Manifold Absolute Pressure
TXD: 07E0221440
RXF: 046285140640
RXD: 3010
MTH: 012203200000
NAM: PSI
Yea, MAP is a standard gauge - but this XGauge is actually better than the standard one. It has a larger range which was needed because the standard gauge tops out around 37 psi absolute (about 22 lbs of boost), which diesels have no problem doing. This one should read well beyond 22lbs of boost.
Manifold Absolute Pressure
TXD: 07E0221440
RXF: 046285140640
RXD: 3010
MTH: 012203200000
NAM: PSI