My new 66' just found its forever home
#1
My new 66' just found its forever home
This is my first post here at ford-trucks. I was looking for a truck to putt around the neighborhood in and found a decent 66 f100. I owned a 61 short box in high school and have a lot of good memories of doing stupid things in it.
It has a 390 according to the previous owner but I bet it's really a 352. The tranny is a 4 speed. It drives and runs ok but I've only put two miles on it so far. I've got a partial list of things wrong with it that I can run by you folks, feel free to answer any or give some personal experiences.
1. The carb is a Holley 4412-S. It needs a rebuild and I like these center float 2 barrels, should I look for something different?
2. Cab corners are rusted through. Hard to replace?
3. Brake pedal is hard. A lot a brake work was done years ago and it's only put a few miles on so I'm thinking the slave cylinders are sticking?
4. Speedo not working.
5. Oil leak from the front of the intake? Seems strange but there's so much oil it's hard to tell.
6. I want an automatic. I'll have to search some threads to find what people are doing.
I need a book or manual for it.
I've got pics but how do I post them?
It has a 390 according to the previous owner but I bet it's really a 352. The tranny is a 4 speed. It drives and runs ok but I've only put two miles on it so far. I've got a partial list of things wrong with it that I can run by you folks, feel free to answer any or give some personal experiences.
1. The carb is a Holley 4412-S. It needs a rebuild and I like these center float 2 barrels, should I look for something different?
2. Cab corners are rusted through. Hard to replace?
3. Brake pedal is hard. A lot a brake work was done years ago and it's only put a few miles on so I'm thinking the slave cylinders are sticking?
4. Speedo not working.
5. Oil leak from the front of the intake? Seems strange but there's so much oil it's hard to tell.
6. I want an automatic. I'll have to search some threads to find what people are doing.
I need a book or manual for it.
I've got pics but how do I post them?
#2
Dot Heton Welcome to and the Slicks Forum.
I would suggest that you buy a 73-76 F100 with C6 auto, and use it as a donor for the auto tranny, power steering and power disc brake upgrade.
Check Carolina Classics in Durham NC Carolina Classics, Obsolete Ford Truck Parts, truck part, ford truck part, truck body parts, classic truck part, pickup truck part, old truck part, classic ford truck part, antique truck part, old ford truck part, auto truck part, ford truck restorat for the cab corners and other parts.
I luv LAs Awesome for grease & oil cleaning Bulk LA?s Totally Awesome All-Purpose Cleaner, 20 oz. at DollarTree.com find it at the dollar store, spray it on come back 10 minutes and rinse it off. I use it full strength because it's so cheap.
hope this helps
John
I would suggest that you buy a 73-76 F100 with C6 auto, and use it as a donor for the auto tranny, power steering and power disc brake upgrade.
Check Carolina Classics in Durham NC Carolina Classics, Obsolete Ford Truck Parts, truck part, ford truck part, truck body parts, classic truck part, pickup truck part, old truck part, classic ford truck part, antique truck part, old ford truck part, auto truck part, ford truck restorat for the cab corners and other parts.
I luv LAs Awesome for grease & oil cleaning Bulk LA?s Totally Awesome All-Purpose Cleaner, 20 oz. at DollarTree.com find it at the dollar store, spray it on come back 10 minutes and rinse it off. I use it full strength because it's so cheap.
hope this helps
John
#3
#4
This is my first post here at ford-trucks. I was looking for a truck to putt around the neighborhood in and found a decent 66 f100. I owned a 61 short box in high school and have a lot of good memories of doing stupid things in it.
It has a 390 according to the previous owner but I bet it's really a 352. The tranny is a 4 speed. It drives and runs ok but I've only put two miles on it so far. I've got a partial list of things wrong with it that I can run by you folks, feel free to answer any or give some personal experiences.
The carb is a Holley 4412-S. It needs a rebuild and I like these center float 2 barrels, should I look for something different?
Original carb with 352 would have been an 2100 series 2V Auto-Lite.
Brake pedal is hard. A lot a brake work was done years ago and it's only put a few miles on so I'm thinking the wheel cylinders are sticking?
Step on the pedal and it's as hard as a rock, time to replace the master cylinder. The wheel cylinders also could be stuck, the rubber brake hoses could have disintegrated internally.
Speedo not working.
See below.
Oil leak from the front of the intake? Seems strange but there's so much oil it's hard to tell.
Intake manifolds of FE engines are notorious for leaking oil, especially at the rear.
I need a book or manual for it.
See below.
It has a 390 according to the previous owner but I bet it's really a 352. The tranny is a 4 speed. It drives and runs ok but I've only put two miles on it so far. I've got a partial list of things wrong with it that I can run by you folks, feel free to answer any or give some personal experiences.
The carb is a Holley 4412-S. It needs a rebuild and I like these center float 2 barrels, should I look for something different?
Original carb with 352 would have been an 2100 series 2V Auto-Lite.
Brake pedal is hard. A lot a brake work was done years ago and it's only put a few miles on so I'm thinking the wheel cylinders are sticking?
Step on the pedal and it's as hard as a rock, time to replace the master cylinder. The wheel cylinders also could be stuck, the rubber brake hoses could have disintegrated internally.
Speedo not working.
See below.
Oil leak from the front of the intake? Seems strange but there's so much oil it's hard to tell.
Intake manifolds of FE engines are notorious for leaking oil, especially at the rear.
I need a book or manual for it.
See below.
Inside the speedometer cable housing is a woven steel core. It's supposed to be lubed every so often, but most people are unaware.
When the lube dries out, the woven steel core binds up inside the housing, eventually snaps.
Auto parts stores sell a 'universal' woven steel core kit. Cut it to length, coat with a fine film of graphite, install in the housing.
Speedometer DRIVE gear located on output shaft. Speedometer DRIVEN gear located at end of cable where it fits into the trans.
These gears could either be steel or nylon and so...could have stripped.
Gears inside speedometer worn out, only 'fixum' is to have the speedo rebuilt by a speedometer shop.
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1966 Owners manual reproduced, available from most of the repro parts sellers. 1964/72 Ford Truck Parts Catalog available on a C/D from hipoparts.com
faxonautolit.com has original used owners/shop manuals, accessory & sales brochures. Faxon also reprints some manuals, may be the source for the 1966 owners manuals that are being sold by the repoppers.
Originally Posted by Dot Heton
Today went out to start the truck and the starter wouldn't engage the flywheel. Looked underneath and saw a split washer and a couple roller bearings on the ground.
Ring gear available by itself with M/T, so you don't have to replace the flywheel. Old ring gear has to be "sweated" off the flywheel, replacement is sweated back on to the flywheel.
Pic: The original clutch throwout bearing (7580) consisted of ball bearings, was pressed onto a separate collar (7561).
FoMoCo changed the design in 1971, it uses needle bearings, collar is made as part of the throwout bearing (7548 not shown in pic).
#6
The FE 3 hole starter and starter drive are the same 1963/64 car and 1965/76 all, A/T or M/T makes no difference.
FE M/T 352/360 & 390 flywheels and its ring gear are the same 1965/76.
1958/62 FE starters use the Bendix reduction starter drive, 1958/64 FE flywheels have 146 teeth.
#7
No I haven't inspected all of the teeth but the starter worked perfectly until today. The inspection plate is missing so I looked up into the bellhousing and saw that the starter gear was free to move back and forth on the shaft. I moved the gear back and forth and two roller bearings fell to the ground. I can't say for sure where they came from so I'm in the middle of taking the starter out. I got the header unbolted but I can't get the header or starter out. I rotated the starter every which way and moved the header a little up and down but no luck.
Do I need to unbolt the motor mount and jack it up a bit or is there a better way to do it?
Also I thought I saw a reasonably priced mini starter somewhere, now all I see is high dollar stuff.
Do I need to unbolt the motor mount and jack it up a bit or is there a better way to do it?
Also I thought I saw a reasonably priced mini starter somewhere, now all I see is high dollar stuff.
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I took the carb to have it rebuilt today. It ran fine but leaked in places and the shaft was totally worn. The carb is a 4412-s, 500 cfm Holley. I wanted a 7448 but rebuilding is going to be half the price. It should be done and back on by Friday. I'll let you know how it goes.
An HEI is on my list of upgrades. I want to use a stock ford rebuilt from Napa. Does anyone know if this is a good plan or can I do better?
An HEI is on my list of upgrades. I want to use a stock ford rebuilt from Napa. Does anyone know if this is a good plan or can I do better?