Parking Brake Lever Nut vs Stud
#1
Parking Brake Lever Nut vs Stud
I searched and see similar questions and partial stories, but not an answer to this basic question:
When trying to remove the 7/16 parking brake lever nut (from rear of backing plate), how do I keep the stud from spinning? It has a very flat (and ROUND?!?!) head.
Also, does the fact that it's spinning mean that I need to replace the stud?
This is on a 93 E350 DRW, but is the same as F350 DRW.
Thanks.
Mike
When trying to remove the 7/16 parking brake lever nut (from rear of backing plate), how do I keep the stud from spinning? It has a very flat (and ROUND?!?!) head.
Also, does the fact that it's spinning mean that I need to replace the stud?
This is on a 93 E350 DRW, but is the same as F350 DRW.
Thanks.
Mike
#2
No one has any ideas?
From the searching I've read, I've seen everything from: "Just leave it in there and work around it;" to "I've destroyed it in the process of removing it;" to "If it's corroded, replace the backing plate."
Seriously? From a parts breakdown that I saw, it appears to just sit in there and the parking brake parts rotate around it. Why in the world it doesn't have a hex head is beyond me, but I'd prefer to get them out of the way to replace the wheel cylinders.
Of course, seeing the battle I just waged with the axle vent tube / mounting bolt for the rear brake hose, I'm starting to be a bigger fan of less fighting with rusty stuff.
Mike
From the searching I've read, I've seen everything from: "Just leave it in there and work around it;" to "I've destroyed it in the process of removing it;" to "If it's corroded, replace the backing plate."
Seriously? From a parts breakdown that I saw, it appears to just sit in there and the parking brake parts rotate around it. Why in the world it doesn't have a hex head is beyond me, but I'd prefer to get them out of the way to replace the wheel cylinders.
Of course, seeing the battle I just waged with the axle vent tube / mounting bolt for the rear brake hose, I'm starting to be a bigger fan of less fighting with rusty stuff.
Mike
#3
it's been a while since i did the rear brakes, and my memory isn't what i would like it to be, but i seem to recall that parking brake pivot bolt having a splined shaft. which would mean that either it, or the splined hole that it goes through in the backing plate, has been rounded off. vice grips may be your friend here.
#4
OK, thanks a bunch. Vice grips haven't worked so far, unfortunately. Maybe I need new/better ones.
I was able to get the old cylinder out and will put the new one in today. I'm not seeing any great reason to pull that stud out at this point, as the adjuster cable looks fine, and there are no broken parts.
When I searched, it seems that those studs are hard to locate, and several people here have replaced them with Grade 8 bolts, which would lead me to believe that if the pin is spinning (and not broken), it's essentially a bolt, and I should leave well enough alone.
Mike
I was able to get the old cylinder out and will put the new one in today. I'm not seeing any great reason to pull that stud out at this point, as the adjuster cable looks fine, and there are no broken parts.
When I searched, it seems that those studs are hard to locate, and several people here have replaced them with Grade 8 bolts, which would lead me to believe that if the pin is spinning (and not broken), it's essentially a bolt, and I should leave well enough alone.
Mike
#5
Was able to work around the lever, not bad once I figured out some tricks (move the lever forward by sliding the cable sheath through its holder to install rear shoe, position shoes higher than normal to install their hold down springs).
But, one is dragging and the pedal is spongy. I'm out of time and patience, taking it to a shop.
Mike
But, one is dragging and the pedal is spongy. I'm out of time and patience, taking it to a shop.
Mike
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