6.0 question
#1
6.0 question
right now have a 01 f250 superduty crew short box with v-10 just found a 03 f350 crew cab short box really clean body no rust mine is really rusted. the 03 has 6.0 with 230000 miles besides the head bolts. going to look for studs on motor. what else to look for new to diesels thanks.
#3
#4
Oh man, where to start....
1. Drive it and see if it has turbo lag. If it gets a huge rush of power above the 2000 rpm mark, the turbo VGT is stuck and needs to be cleaned. This can also be accompanied by a underboost code in the PCM. Watch the boost gauge under heavy load until it gets to 5th gear, More boost will occur when the truck shifts into 5th. If it stays at 20-21 psi, there can be a boost leak in the CAC piping or the CAC itself can burst from an overboost condition. It should boost to about 25-27 psi in top gear under high load.
2. Look to see if there is oil under the turbo. If there is, the turbo drain packings are damaged and need replacement.
3. Check codes for anything involving EGR, ICP out of range or cooling fan issues. All of these have the potential of being wallet breakers. If you have a scangauge, watch for ICP readings at idle around 600 psi. Also, if you drive it and the IPR duty cycle goes right to 14, the IPR screen is clogged and has likely burst causing the IPR to stick.
4. Look at the hood and around the degas bottle for puking of coolant. This doesn't necessarily mean that the EGR cooler or head gaskets are blown if the level is above the "MIN" mark. "MIN" is the new "FULL".
5. Look at the coolant in the degas bottle. If it looks crusty, a coolant flush in in your future. VC-9 works well and is readily available at a Ford dealer. Flush ONLY if the oil cooler is exhibiting signs of a clog, because if you do flush it, the oil cooler will be clogged afterwards.
6. Drive it and hit the brakes hard a few times. Do they feel spongy? It's likely that the rear caliper lower slide pins are seized.
7. Check the rear axle yoke seal for leakage. This is a PITA to repair.
8. Look for leakage on the frame mounted fuel filter assembly.
There is so much more but this is a good start.
I own two of these trucks, both have been purchased in the last 4 months. They both have had the following maintenance done due to negligent previous owners. They both have 114k and 118k.
1. Turbo rebuild and VGT cleaning
2. EGR cooler (dorman makes a new one similar to the bulletproof cooler)
3. Oil cooler
4. STC fitting
5. IPR
6. Coolant flush and change to ELC coolant.
7. Installed coolant filter
8. Fan Clutch (one truck has had it replaced twice in a week)
9. Thermostat
10. Brakes (one truck needed both front calipers and both rear caliper brackets due to a botched brake job.
11. EGR valve
12. Batteries
13. One truck needed a new positive battery cable and alternator too.
14. Accessory drive belt
15. One truck needed a FICM
....And the list grows every day.
1. Drive it and see if it has turbo lag. If it gets a huge rush of power above the 2000 rpm mark, the turbo VGT is stuck and needs to be cleaned. This can also be accompanied by a underboost code in the PCM. Watch the boost gauge under heavy load until it gets to 5th gear, More boost will occur when the truck shifts into 5th. If it stays at 20-21 psi, there can be a boost leak in the CAC piping or the CAC itself can burst from an overboost condition. It should boost to about 25-27 psi in top gear under high load.
2. Look to see if there is oil under the turbo. If there is, the turbo drain packings are damaged and need replacement.
3. Check codes for anything involving EGR, ICP out of range or cooling fan issues. All of these have the potential of being wallet breakers. If you have a scangauge, watch for ICP readings at idle around 600 psi. Also, if you drive it and the IPR duty cycle goes right to 14, the IPR screen is clogged and has likely burst causing the IPR to stick.
4. Look at the hood and around the degas bottle for puking of coolant. This doesn't necessarily mean that the EGR cooler or head gaskets are blown if the level is above the "MIN" mark. "MIN" is the new "FULL".
5. Look at the coolant in the degas bottle. If it looks crusty, a coolant flush in in your future. VC-9 works well and is readily available at a Ford dealer. Flush ONLY if the oil cooler is exhibiting signs of a clog, because if you do flush it, the oil cooler will be clogged afterwards.
6. Drive it and hit the brakes hard a few times. Do they feel spongy? It's likely that the rear caliper lower slide pins are seized.
7. Check the rear axle yoke seal for leakage. This is a PITA to repair.
8. Look for leakage on the frame mounted fuel filter assembly.
There is so much more but this is a good start.
I own two of these trucks, both have been purchased in the last 4 months. They both have had the following maintenance done due to negligent previous owners. They both have 114k and 118k.
1. Turbo rebuild and VGT cleaning
2. EGR cooler (dorman makes a new one similar to the bulletproof cooler)
3. Oil cooler
4. STC fitting
5. IPR
6. Coolant flush and change to ELC coolant.
7. Installed coolant filter
8. Fan Clutch (one truck has had it replaced twice in a week)
9. Thermostat
10. Brakes (one truck needed both front calipers and both rear caliper brackets due to a botched brake job.
11. EGR valve
12. Batteries
13. One truck needed a new positive battery cable and alternator too.
14. Accessory drive belt
15. One truck needed a FICM
....And the list grows every day.
#5
Right here. After that this is a good one to read >>> Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Just bought 06 F350 FX4 6.0!!
I would also spend some time in the Tech Folder >>> https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
So much good info in there.
Then if you have a question feel free to just ask it.
Sean
I would also spend some time in the Tech Folder >>> https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
So much good info in there.
Then if you have a question feel free to just ask it.
Sean
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