Krown rust prevention, Fluid film, LPS#2 and a sacrificial anode system will keep it good for about 10 years if driven through the crap. Not doing anything it WILL show rust in 1-2 and ROT in 5 if everything's left to the factory spec including that special water holding sponge in the wheel wells???...Other than that I vote Phoenix!

 

I remember watching a show or some sort of video talking about making vehicles more rust resistant. Maybe it was some video about the new F150 but the engineer said


"I can design a vehicle that wont rust. Will people be willing to pay for it is the true question."


I live in the rust belt and luckily my truck only makes an excursion or two in the winter with it sitting in the garage during most of the winter. I bought it used so it had corrosion starting so I'm only delaying the inevitable.


I drive cheap cars to work and during the winter. I take care of them the best I can but realize they are the "sacrificial anode" for my trucks longevity.


Solutions to rust issue:


Get a winter beater
Move down south
Be VERY proactive with rust preventatives


I was never lucky enough until now to have a "heated" garage so I used to wash my truck all the time in the winter to reduce the effects of the salt. I think I did more harm than good. I swear water worked its way into small paint cracks or chips. This would then freeze and start dislodging the paint opening to the metal to rust. I could be talking out my rear but I think I did more damage washing constantly in the winter. Mainly because I wasn't able to wash in a heated area where the water could dry and not freeze.


With the door rust you likely need to remove the inside panels and spray down into the door. This way the rust preventative can hopefully work its way into those pinch seams. I think I put almost 3/4 of a gallon of fluid film on my truck. Probably over did it.

 

Fluid film is the only thing that should be sprayed on the bottom of a truck. I have done the tar based ones in the past and what happens is they dry and crack in places then trap water and moisture so you have this decent looking undercoat with rusty metal under it.

 

All you need to do is look at around at the SuperDutys my area. Between the crappy winters with road salt and the ocean my truck is "dissolving"! Cab corners, tailgate bottoms, fender-wells, collapsing beds.
I am **** about keeping it clean and touching up rust un the undercarriage. That's why take-off beds sell for $$$ and the aftermarket has replacement parts.

I have had the rear fenders rust through from inside, cab corners rust through, tailgate and lower door seams rust, rear brake backing plates rust through, and the bed support rails collapse from rust. Slam a door hard enough and rust falls out.

The "issue" is bad in the Northeast.

 

where are you getting this info from? When I replaced the bed side on my 2000 super duty (removing each spot weld and replacing outer skin) the upper part of the wheel well is filled with foam, if the foam is not damaged it will not get moisture behind it. When I scraped it off the metal behind the foam was coated in a grey sealer (like all new car bodys) the entire bed behind the outer skin was coated. When I toured the f-150 plant several years ago the entire body was rolled through a rust inhibitor (the grey coating) bath several times before going on to paint. The problem lies in the bed support channels that should have had caps put on the ends or drain holes in the bottom. the wheel wells would have been fine if a full fender liner was fitted to the vehicle.

my 2000 has no rust and was wyoming and washington state (east side where they use road chemicals and salts) with trips to ND in winter. Still no rust.

I do believe a good undercoating and rust proofing beyond the factory would go along ways to prevent some other problems though.

 

That gray coating they put on is a joke!

Look under a honda sometime and you will see real rust preventative measures.

 

I live in Upstate NY - and my vehicles will usually start to suffer some rust on the underside in 3-4 years. My 'cure' is a good spring pressure wash on the underside. But like many cures, not entirely successful but it does put off the inevitable. Then there is the fact that my truck is seldom driven in the winter - it takes too long for it to warm up to operating temps. That promised new Super Duty aluminum body will probably be a little better but it will still corrode from road chemicals.

After all that about Fords, have you by chance looked at a Dodge of about the same vintage as yours lately? A good friend has an '06 that probably every body panel is either perforated or bubbling and has for at least 2 years and that truck was originally a southern vehicle.

 

Well, I have lived in San Antonio and Houston TX, had 3 Super Duties, an '03, and 08, and currently have an '11. I haven't had any rust on any of them.

 

My dad's 2001 F150 has no rust. He drives it to work every day here in the rust belt. He works in a steel mill which tends to be bad on vehicles. He did drill a couple holes in the cab so that he can spray rust inhibitor in the rockers, cab corners and the bottom of the doors. He is also a big fan of the undercarriage wash at the car wash. My sister's 2 accords rusted out in just a few years, she now drives a 08 Edge, with 160,000 miles and no rust. All she does for upkeep is the automated car wash. Maybe there's something to the undercarriage wash.

 

I was in the rustproofing industry back in the 1980's, and I would agree. Get the salt washed off ASAP!

Fortunately I live in Florida, where we get more rain than most parts of the US but have no salted roads (we only use salt for our Margaritas, lol ). My 2005 doesn't even show a speck of rust, so being wet and/or water retention in insulated areas must not be the issue as much as introducing salt to the mix.

 

The foam is the main culprit. It doesn't have to be damaged add stayed to absorb moisture. It is basically a sponge put there to make the truck rust out in a period of time. If they would use a non porous sealer instead of foam the bed sides would last allot longer.

 

The foam is easier and quicker to put in during manufacturing.

 

I HIGHLY recommend Krown.
I'd also get the "rear wheel liners."

 

I did/do the Krown on my 11. I make sure the technician soaks the hell out of my sponges! So far so good. I also get at the foam with LPS#2 and I avoid that area at all costs when hosing down the undercarriage. Sponge foam in a 4x4 wheel well is asinine! Built in obsolescence or not pure BS. I pay what I pay for these rigs; I dont expect to see rot in 4-5 years. 10 maybe not 4. Especially how **** I am about keeping it clean and serviced. The wheel well liners are on the list before the weather gets bad again. Id pay the extra bux for Henery to install these on the line. Id also pay to delete said sponge from said wheel wells...oy

 

I'd also hit anything beginning to rust, drive shafts etc. with this...
Duplicolor Rust Fix, Rust Converter, Black, 10.25 oz. Aerosol RF129: Advance Auto Parts
or an equivalent.