My slick has been running flawlessly for about the past year now and I am starting to have withdrawals from not working on it. So, I need to either break something or find something else that "needs" to be modified. I think a coolant filter is something that could be added for cheap and would be very beneficial to the cooling system down the road. (Again, I know this is overkill and isn't needed)

My only question is the plumbing. Do I basically just run a circuit parallel to that of the heater?

 

It aint broke, but you are trying to fix it.



John

 

I am reminded of another saying that I am fond of when I hear this. Keep fixing it till it is broken.

 

A company named Gano, used to make a filter/screen that you could splice into the upper radiator hose. It could be removed for cleaning and did not restrict water flow. It was also clear so you could see what sort of things it picked up. This was most useful after installing a new engine build or new radiator when engine scale that was loosened and not cleaned out of the block could find its way into your new radiator, plugging the tubes. After the engine's been on the road a while, I think that it has limited benefit. Cooling-wise, a flush and fill would probably do you more good. Avoid any water filter that could eventually restrict your water flow.

 

See that you're located in Montana. Is Townsend in the eastern part, or the banana belt? It gets REALLY cold on those high plains.

I'd install a block heater, the hell with a filter. Maybe some kind of quick-release to bring the battery inside at night.

 

I tried one of those. Got the one that had the largest diameter. It was a disaster and leaked all over. The outside diameter did not fit the 1.75" inside diameter of the hose. You couldn't tighten the wire clamps enough to stop the leaks and if too tight you warped the round filter. So into the trash.

 

Banana belt. No snow, not too cold of temps and a fair bit of wind. Having lived here all my life I am quite familiar with block heaters and oil tank heaters.

I know that I don't need a coolant filter. I have just run out of things to tinker on.

That is why my truck has a 416, a Clark 5 speed, etc., etc.

So back to the question, do I basically just run a circuit parallel to that of the heater?

 

Can't advise, after 50 years of being around these trucks and never having one, I can only ask why?


John

 

Kinda the same reason that people lower or lift their trucks, paint them funny colors, and put tons of time and energy and money into making them look nice.

I'm bored and the original cooling system was completely full of crud. I can guarantee that it won't fill up with crud again if I filter it. Instead of making the outside of the truck look nice, I want to have a clean, pristine, show-room quality cooling system on the inside.

 

That sir I can offer a response to. I suspect like many you were buying your favorite brand antifreeze and mixing your local water. I didn't know any better at the time as that is the way my dad did it. I also bought 2-97 Ford Taurus GL 3.0 program cars that had aprox 20,000 miles. One of the cars had a rusty tone to the coolant when we 1st got it, that got worse over the years causing repairs to be made in the head area.

Having learned about the 50/50 mix, (I have always used Prestone equally mixed with grocery store distilled water) I double flushed the system and filled it with my 50/50 and went trouble free from then on. The car had 178,000 miles on it when we sold it.

My 66 is likely several years overdue to be drained and refilled with fresh but it still looks like it was just filled.

I can't do anything about your desire to spend your money. I can testify to what seems to be an excellent method for prolonged coolant use.


John

 

How about waterless coolant? I have seen it used on some shows, but I haven't used it myself. It's pretty pricey, but if you never have to change it, and the internals don't rust, it could be worth it. Since there is no water in the system to expand, your cooling system doesn't build up pressure. Food for thought.

 

I think I can say that I am not responsible for the crud in the original system. It now has 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water. But knowing the PO of the truck, I can guarantee it was tap water - and they have some of the hardest tap water around.

 

Re: 1960' that doesn't make any sense. The increase in pressure within your cooling system is what raises the boiling temperature...so it's desirable, otherwise you wouldn't need a pressure cap.
Redneck, the Gano filter works well...you just have to get the one that's the same size as the O.D. Of your upper radiator hose. Stretch the hose around it and secure tightly with hose clamps. You splice it into the upper hose, or a spare upper hose and leave a small section of the hose out. You don't want a separate "circuit" because you want all flow to go through the filter...easy...but if it were me, I would be on the Blackfoot fishin' instead!!

 

That sounds more like a strainer than a filter. I want to clean it down to a couple of microns.

Why? Even your engine oil filter doesn't filter the full flow of oil. It just gets all the particles out over time. Big rigs and heavy machinery normally only have a 1/2" line running to the coolant filter.

 

Check out Evans coolant on Jay Leno's Garage. According to them, you can run the system with the cap loose, and it won't boil over. Expensive, but I like the idea of a product that doesn't cause corrosion.