Lag bolts or self-tapping bolts? Reese WDs come with all the parts necessary for installation.

 

I followed WE3ZS's advice. I installed the helwig rear bar and the RAS added the hensley arrow. The kids and I traveled just over 10k miles last summer and I never felt even remotely concerned about sway even in the crazy cross winds in SD.

 

That Hensley Arrow is amazing! The only thing I have trouble with is backing it up right after I back up my trailer. Since it articulates instead of pivoting on the ball. It can be humorous. I've towed travel trailers since the 90's drove wreckers since the 80's and look like a novice when I make my first cut. LOL. But for that to allow my dad's shorty Expo to tow a 35' trailer says it all! If I had the $ I'd switch to that hitch!

Keith

 

I was on the road and my older style dual cam set up stripped out the teeth that keep the hitch height correct. Could barely keep it on the road. Went to C world and had them replace with a new one.

They didn't adjust it right, so I adjusted it a few hundred miles down the road. Saw they used my old hardware. Was pissed off. Got to Florida went to another C world and they put in these. Fail.

 

Interesting. I am going to assume that is what Reese is sending with this product. The reason I initially asked was the problem you are having is not, in my experience, typical and I was trying to figure out if it was an anomaly or if someone was messing with your hardware.

I am doubtful an installer is ambitious enough to swap out the screws, and certainly two would not do it, so now I am trying to think why the problem with yours. I haven't seen hardware come loose or wear in this manner. What I have seen is installers using too large a bit to start the screw in the frame.

When I watched the installation video for the hitch it says to drill a hole to start the screw. The hole should be quite small, but if it was drilled too close to the screw size, there screw will not get enough purchase and will easily pull out.

Thanks for posting the pictures. It had me scratching my head as I have always found Reese hardware to do a good job.

Steve

 

It's NOT a Reese product. They didn't have one in stock at the place in Fl, so they went to the store and bought these, it's C World That messed up not Reese. The original C world stole my new bolts and put in my rusty *** old bolts. Yeah, Reese is great but my point is just because you pay someone to do a job doesn't mean they know what they're doing.



Those bolts didn't match what my hitch was tapped for but they knowingly jammed then in there and sent me down the road.

 

Thanks for clarifying. You are absolutely right. I have found customer service is vanishing breed. It is simply amazing to me that someone would steal bolts!

Steve

 

You should email Marcus Lemonis (hooked on his show The Profit) and let him know what happened.

Stewart

 

You start emailing him about everything Camping World screws up and all he would be doing is answering email!

 

Ordered an RAS kit from the factory. They were very helpful and sent it right out. Installed it Sunday. Took 4 hrs (most of the time was jacking the truck up high enough). Really a piece of cake once I could safely get under there. Will do a test pull tomorrow to see if it makes a difference.

 

The hensley arrow uses bolts just like that they call them shear bolts They told me to get them at home depot.

 

Yes, on the HA these shear bolts are really secondary to the pair of U bolts on each side that hold the brackets the spring bar jacks and rear of the strut bars attach to in place. They seem to only serve to indicate (by shearing off) if the brackets slide out of position, which shouldn't happen if the U bolts are torqued correctly. On the Dual Cam hitches these bolts actually hold the brackets onto the trailer frame.

 

Way late to the party, but I had the same problem and the miracle cure for me was simply adding air springs. 65PSI and forget about it. I chose air springs because I wanted to retain the somewhat soft ride the original springs provide when not towing.
In order of mods:
1) Bought new trailer used old WD hitch, drove 160 miles home and it was terrible.
2) Bought the Reese 1500 Dual cam WD hitch. Helped a lot, but not there yet. (It's a sweet hitch though)
3) Added rear sway bar from an F250. No difference
4) Bought air springs and pump. Installed the springs, pumped them up with bike pump and can now tow without the WD hitch. I still use it for the anti-sway properties. Never did hook up the pump because the bike pump has a built in gauge and works every time.

 

Thanks for all the helpful advise. I spent 8 hrs yesterday getting the wd set to factory specs. Took it for a tow today and I think I've got a keeper. We leave Wed for an 18 day trip from Denver to Seattle then south down the coast road then east back home. I'm sure I will know within the first 500 miles if all the things I did will be worthwhile. I do like the ride that the RAS system is giving me. Does anyone know that has the RAS if I readjust the springs to the black spacer what it might do to the wd adjustments. When I talked to the factory when I ordered it, they suggested using the white spacer. Thanks-Rick

 

Suggest you add a Hellwig Rear anti-sway bar and Roadmaster Active Suspension. Since you had the steering gear replaced I assume you felt some wander without the trailer. Without the extra stiffening of the rear axle to body connection, it's going to sway. The RAS stiffens the springs and stabilizes the axle to prevent spring wrap. If you do the installation your self, the cost is probably about $650--well worth every dime whether you tow or not. Before I had those, without a trailer, if I made a quick correction at highway speeds it felt like I was fish tailing. I wouldnt want to think what that would be like with a trailer on the back.

BTW-moving to larger spacing on the RAS spring increases spring strength and stiffness and raises height slightly. I have mine on the wider setting--about the width of a quarter