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Tru-Cool Max LPD47391 Install

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Old 06-17-2015, 08:07 PM
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Tru-Cool Max LPD47391 Install

I’ve read up a ton regarding how-to install the Tru-Cool, but wanted to double check my plan to ensure I understand this correctly.

On the green return line below, cut but leave ~3” of hose connected to metal return line for splicing with the new return from the Tru-Cool unit.

Once cut, connect the "old" return line to the Tru-Cool unit, and then splice the second "new return" line from the Tru-Cool with the ~3" cut line headed back to the transmission.

Seems fairly simple to run the unit in series with the existing, but again, just wanted to run my plan through here before the install.


 
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Old 06-17-2015, 08:41 PM
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Looks good to me
 
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:14 PM
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Yup, the hardest part of that project is figuring how to mount the cooler to the grill.... and make sure you tighten the hose clamps sufficiently, they Will leak if you don't.
 
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Old 06-17-2015, 10:01 PM
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Appreciated
 
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Old 06-18-2015, 11:13 AM
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Don't know what the true cool costs but my vote is to replace the stock cooler with one from a 6.0. Direct fit replacement and woks great. It's what I did as well as many others here. I also installed the Derale thermostat and Magnfine filter. Temp sits at 185* and may see 190* towing my 11K fiver up 7-8% grades.
 
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Old 06-18-2015, 12:58 PM
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Well I mounted my TruCool in the front bumper and made a grill to go in front of it. The hose routing was different for me since I have a E99. The TruCool has done a great job for me and even with no radiator cooler I still only run between 150*-180*
Check post #37 in my trans build thread for photos of cooler mounting.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rebuild-3.html
 
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Old 06-18-2015, 01:24 PM
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I was able to pick-up the Tru-cool max from Amazon $130 shipped. I wanted to complete before the heat of the summer, as I recently hit ~200F while towing my 20' bass boat up some long hills. Before purchasing, I did search around (Craigslist, eBay, etc), but no 6.0 cooler was available for under $200 during my search over the past week. With either option, I think I'm doing my truck a favor and do appreciate the advice.

Originally Posted by hydro man 17
Don't know what the true cool costs but my vote is to replace the stock cooler with one from a 6.0. Direct fit replacement and woks great. It's what I did as well as many others here. I also installed the Derale thermostat and Magnfine filter. Temp sits at 185* and may see 190* towing my 11K fiver up 7-8% grades.
 
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Old 06-18-2015, 01:25 PM
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Thanks, and I'll take a look at your post

Originally Posted by BadDogKuzz
Well I mounted my TruCool in the front bumper and made a grill to go in front of it. The hose routing was different for me since I have a E99. The TruCool has done a great job for me and even with no radiator cooler I still only run between 150*-180*
Check post #37 in my trans build thread for photos of cooler mounting.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rebuild-3.html
 
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Old 06-18-2015, 06:36 PM
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I also mounted a Trucool transmission cooler on my 2003 F350. Some of us just cannot afford a 6.0 cooler. The Trucool works just fine. The tabs on the cooler line up close enough to the vertical supports behind the grill that you could thru bolt it to them. When I first installed my cooler I left the factory OTA cooler in the circuit but found out the tranny ran to cool. Would not hit 150* empty on hills, stayed in the 130s on the flat interstate. So I bypassed the factory OTA cooler and now will hit 150* on hills empty and about 175*-185* pulling a 10K fiver on the hills I travel. If you want to keep your OTA cooler do not cut the hose from the output of the OTA cooler, remove it from the metal return line and then use a 3/8 brass hose barb connector and splice it to your input for the Trucool. Then run a hose from the output of the Trucool to the tranny return line. I wrapped all of my hoses with wire loom to protect them because they will run close to body parts.

Paul
 
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:47 PM
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I mounted mine to the vertical supports mentioned earlier. The lined the back side of the grill with window screen the keep junk off the cooler. No problems.
 
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:12 PM
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Folks - received the unit, and a big white sticker w/ bold lettering on the parts bag calls out explicitly, I'll need the Thermal Bypass for weather under 32F degrees. While I live in TX, below 32F is rare, we do see it a couple times a year + I have family in Kansas City we visit also in the winter. Guess I didn't do enough research ... anyhow, since I'll need to include the Thermal Bypass, and besides calling TruCool for additional instructions, anyone have tips for this add-on? Thanks, again!
 
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Old 06-23-2015, 05:17 PM
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I haven't done bypasses recently, but did in the past and they were straight forward. Seems like the diagram came with them and I am sure there is even more on the Internet now. I was using big coolers on motor homes with attached fans and the termps in the winter here in Tennessee ran below 100 degrees.

I am thinking about changing out my 6.0 cooler and going with one of the fan/cooler combos and running the fan on the stat relay with bypass capable to turn the fan on manually.
 
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Old 06-24-2015, 01:09 PM
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Might want to look into the Derale thermostat. Mine works very well, however the other day I hit ~190* in hot weather unloaded but I am also running a Manafine filter. I am thinking about removing to see if it makes any difference.
 
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Old 06-24-2015, 02:10 PM
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Install instructions from Dieselsite.com.

http://dieselsite.com/pdffiles/tcikinstructionsweb.pdf
 
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Old 06-24-2015, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hydro man 17
Might want to look into the Derale thermostat. Mine works very well, however the other day I hit ~190* in hot weather unloaded but I am also running a Manafine filter. I am thinking about removing to see if it makes any difference.


Mine hits 190 also, got to 195 a few times, but before the Derale I was only seeing 130 in cold weather, too cold to burn off moisture I'm told. From the reading I've done I don't think 190-200 is anything to worry about. Plus it will be a real bear, if not impossible, to remove the hoses from those barbed fittings.
 


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