I'm installing 3.5" lift leaf springs so I can take out a ~3" lift block put in by a PO. I will still have the factory lift block (the one with the wing) since I didn't want to spend more money on 6" lift leafs.

The problem is that I am trying to get them on there. I wrestled for a few hours today on one side but I can't get the leaf pack to line up with the little hole on the block. See picture below. The little nub coming from the leafs (nice new black) is a little over an inch to the left of the hole in the center of the rusty lift block.

My question is, how do I get them to line up? It seems like my axle is not coming back into alignment and I'm not sure what I can do with the tools I have and just myself working on it.

Any helpful hints?

 

Loosen the leaf spring attachment bolts and and it should have enough slop to line up the pin.

Alternatively, get a ratcheting cargo strap or a come-along to 'persuade' the alignment.

Btw, the leaf spring bolts/nuts on the spring hangers should not be tightened until the full weight of the vehicle is supported by the suspension - "on the ground".

 

Nothing is fully tightened yet, but now that I think about it I may have tightened the rear bolt at the bottom of the hanger. I'll try loosening that and hopefully it will line up.

I don't want to take any of the bolts out as it was a huge pain to get them in. And I did try a cargo strap to try and pull the axle in the direction I needed, but I ended up bending the hardware on it without much movement.

 

Pull the spring over, not the axle.

And I wasn't recommending removing the thru-bolts on the hangers... just to leave the nuts loose.

Btw, there have been a few threads in the past asking which end of the spring is the 'front'. The pin is not centered between the spring eyes so there is a long end and a short end.

 

Are you sure you have the leaf spring installed correctly "direction" wise? I think there might be a difference in the front and back length of the spring from the attachment point and the spring pack pin? Measure your old one, and make sure.

Then once you have one side replaced, do the other side, then move the axle with the idea HIO Silver mentioned. Be very careful doing this job, and make sure the truck is VERY secure while you work on it.

If you are unsure or can not figure it out, call and ask the tech line of the company you got the leaf springs from. They should be able to tell you if there is a specific installation direction.

 

Hmm. I think I put them in the correct way when compared to the old ones. It doesn't help that my driveway is on a slight slant and that section (rear passenger side) is the lowest part.

I'll check it out tomorrow morning.

 

Measure the distance from the end of the spring to the pin from each end.

Make sure to have the truck supported at the frame (both sides) just in front of where the rear leaf springs attach to the spring hangers. AND a back up support under the rear bumper.

 

I measured the new ones and the old ones, the old ones are shorter on the front side and that is how I installed the new ones. I feel like an idiot for taking this on by myself. And now I can't even get it to a shop if I wanted to.

I loosened all of the nuts and tried using a cargo ratcheting strap to pull the spring to where the lift block and perch are, but no luck. See pictures below on alignment.

If I started jacking up the axle would that put it in the right place?

 

Wow that is alot to pull, but I think it is mainly because the fact that you still have the one tire/rim still on and the axle is at such angle. But that tire gives you more stability.

Shocks and drive shaft still being connected could affect it, but probably not.

Are there NO FTE members in VA that could of lent a hand? You are a member of the VA FTE chapter right?

Virginia Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

You should of jacked the truck up enough to have the suspension fully UNLOADED and the truck level, and then supported the truck on both sides with jack stands.

At least stack the rear tires on top of each other, under the bumper as a back up emergency support option. Taking off the other tire will make it so you do not have to jack it up that far.

Replace the other spring then jack (from the middle) the axle up to the springs.

 

Oh No, that'll not work. You need some more jack stands. You'll also want a large something under the back bumper in case you rock that off the stands sitting on 4x4s on uneven ground. Both sides of the frame need to be supported well, both rear wheels off the ground and off the truck even, and you need a couple jacks or a couple jack stands if working with just one and some more timber under them to make secure under the axle as well.
To even have a hope of getting it all close enough to fasten you need to bring the axle up under the new leaf spring packs and blocks .... with axle in same plane as the truck frame.

You need the bolts in place but nuts just started, still loose, no weight on either spring .....
..... and might even help to undo that driveshaft and tie it up out of your way.

Speaking of driveshaft ..... that rear has had the perches removed and rotated and rewelded from the looks of it, sure is a lot of upwards angle on it and I think "too much so", might need to drop the snout a little with some wedges. It just looks to me like that driveshaft to pinion angle is about the opposite of what it should be and it's only gonna get worse with weight on the rear.

The axle will likely line up pretty easy once no weight is on it at all and the springs hanging free, no panic ..... just call some buddies and get some more stands and a "hand" or two.

Also, you are gonna be under the truck with valuable body parts .... your body parts. You'll only get to knock or rock the truck off the stands one time. I've been on some calls like that, have pics, not pretty.

BSafe .....

 

Ok, so at this point the best thing would be to take the other wheel off and try replacing them both at the same time so that the axle isn't at such an angle?

The frame is really high off the ground and the jack stand on the one side is already on a 6x6 beam just to reach. Would it be safe to do the other side in the same way, and would I need to disconnect the drive shaft?

I guess I could post in the VA FTE page and see if anyone would be able to help out. I just was hoping to get it done this weekend by myself.

 

I guess I was typing as you were posting took me a while with TV going ..... .... I wonder, where in Va he's at?

For sure .... I've done a few and always, no wheels and tires in my way. On a lift in a garage with stands, maybe ..... but on the ground, get them out of the way.

Yeah, I guess they are 6x6, not 4x4 ..... any jackstands I crawl under are on firm footing and point straight up. Hard to see how level or unlevel your location is.

Depends on location, might be a member a mile away that's able to help? A new buddy even? Never know?

I like the idea of a stack of tires on wheels under rear bumper!

 

Thanks for the advice tbear. It is frustrating not having friends with similar interests. No one wants to do anything mechanical these days and instead they just default to taking it to the shop.

I am not sure which angle you are talking about when you mention needing some wedges.

Will I need to make any modifications in order to get these springs in? I assumed that since I was removing a 3" block and adding about a 3" lift spring pack that things should be able to go back to the way they were?

If I head to lowes what would you suggest to help support the jack stands? A couple more 6x6s?

 

Ha, yeah tbear, I was typing at the same time as well.

I'm in Charlottesville if you ever feel like making it this way I'd appreciate it.

 

We'll keep you in mind, I am going to Lynchburg today to see Mom.

Take a look at that Va. thread (I'm currently #78) .... might find someone close.