I purchased a 95 f250 with 145k on it and a bad head gasket. I completly rebuilt the top end with 1.7rr, a valve job and long tube headers. Added a 2.5in dual side swept exhaust. I have no check engine light and only emission faults stored as these were previously removed. Holes in the heads are plugged and thermactor bumps removed and polished. Heads are stock e7. Took it for a drive and I'm disappointed. I have a similar truck with this same build except it has gt40 heads and a c6. It pulls "okay". I towed my 06 f250 diesel from Columbus to Cleveland and was pretty impressed, but this thing just seems like it doesn't have much grunt. I cannot stand the shifting of the e4od. Seems like it just slides into gear instead of "dropping" into gear if that makes sense. I had the trans rebuilt with stock parts 2000 miles ago. .. anything i can do to improve the soft shifts? If there is, i think it'll be better. Has 4.10 gears and is 4x4. Tempted to put in my zf-s42 and be done with it

 

Shift kit &/or torque converter upgrade would be a lot easier than a change over to a manual. E4OD is essentially a C-6 with overdrive and much unjustifiably maligned.

 

Yes the E4OD is a pig and the factory lazy shifts have to be a major contributor to early failures of these things, I can't believe how slushy they are compared to the 4R70w trucks even. I say put a shift kit in it.

 

Yeah autos are power-sucking pigs. Not only does the engine have to turn all the inner workings in there, it's also powering a hydraulic pump (trans pump) and spinning a big heavy torque converter as well.

To fix the sad excuse for a shift, you can install a shift kit. Encho has a nice writeup here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13059337

 

This kind of sucks. .. i was pretty excited to be driving an OBS again. Until i got on it that is lol. I'll get a shift kit and install it. What do you guys think about a valve body upgrade? Are they worth the extra money?

 

I know the feeling....

Does your E4od at highway speeds when you let off the gas feel like it brakes to much and slows you down to fast>?

 

A valve body upgrade for your 95 would just be a valve body with shift kit already installed since I don't think there were any more updates to them after that, before the 4R100. I'd save the money, do it yourself, and be able to customize the shift firmness to your liking. Unless you want a full manual VB or something.

And yes it does suck, I don't like my auto either. I've started collecting parts to swap to a manual cause not only does it suck down power but the damn thing is almost never in the gear I want, and shifting it manually is a waiting game:

Move shifter... wait ten minutes... transmission finally shifts... then torque converter locks and pulls the RPM down just as the engine was getting into it's sweet spot.

 

Yeah that makes sense. I'm going to order the kit today with a new deep pan. I also want to put in a better trans cooler. Im going to try and get it done this weekend. Hopefully the install goes well. Thanks for everyone's input. Ill let you all know how it goes.

 

Mine does this in third. Almost as is the converter locks .4 seconds after if shifts into gears. I hate that. Feels like it leaves so much on the table and goes from sounding like im pulling hard to i let off of it. Im going to pull codes and see if something is going on or if this is just normal. This is my first e4od ive driven daily and been able to pay attention to.

On another note, my new deep trans pan is in. Waiting on the b&m to get here, hopefully tomorrow. Ill be installing saturday. Hopefully this helps out a bit.

 

You might want to read Mark Kovalski's posts in this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15449385 before popping for a deep pan. When someone with 19 years experience as a Ford automatic trans engineer says deep pans are a bad idea I'll choose to listen.

 

Not necessarily a bad idea, just not an idea that will show any benefits. It won't help the trans, but it won't hurt it, either.

 

Lol. Never measured the heat under the truck but I know it's #&#%$! HOT under just about any vehicle because in high school I had a beater car with holes in the floorboards and the draft that came in was way hotter than the Florida heat coming in thru the windows. Had to duct tape over them it was so bad! So yeah the finned pan not working out makes perfect sense.

 

Yeah mine feels that way. I think it is because I'm not used to driving a 4x4 w 31x10.50 tires but it slows down fast if I let off. It also speeds up fast going down a big hill w no gas too lol. Also it does kind of shift slow too from 3rd to 4th. I though it was slipping but no codes. 1st 2nd is real nice and firm

 

You can get better shifts even if your transmission is stock by working the throttle just right. Hard to describe but let's say you want to make your 1-2 shift at 3000 RPM. Give her some gas and keep applying more til you want to shift (this will hold the current gear), then let off a bit and the trans will shift nicely into second, then give it gas again. If done right it kinda sounds like a manual transmission, but the point of doing it this way is to get a somewhat firm shift instead of the usual mush. I normally drive mine this way. It will work for the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts as well but expect the torque converter to lock up right after the shift and pull your RPM down out of the sweet spot.

 

Darn... i already bought it. But the only reason being is it has a bung for a trans temp gauge , a drain plug and my pan was rotting out. But now that i think about it, i dont think that my exhaust is going to clear it. I plan on using a cooler with a fan on it and use a temp switch to trigger it. Whats a good temp to have it come on at? I dont have a guage on it yet, but my 6.0 towed at its hottest, 180*. BUT i know it has a massivr cooler on it.