Hi Folks,
I just got my new set of leafs for my sagging front end. The truck is a '96 f-250 4x4.

Can anyone give me some pointers on how these get installed? I'm plenty mechanically saavy and understand the basics of how it's suppose to be done. Just looking for someone who has specifically done a leaf job on a Ford and a few hopeful tips as to what not to do. I have most tools to do the job (breaker bars, big sockets, impact gun, et al. but I'm open to suggestions if anyone has one of something I might not think I'd need.

I'm unfortunately stuck doing this in the driveway and with a floor jack, some jack stands and wood blocks. Can I do this one side as time or is it easier to get both sides of the frame up at the same time?


Lastly how hard is it to change out the TTB bushings on the vehicle? Is this something I should do now while front end is being dismantled? I've got access to a torch and have a hand-press but debating if it's worth doing myself.

 

I've done that same spring swap-out in a '95 F-250. Recommend having new U-bolts and nuts in hand before starting. Depending on the level of rust, you might want to replace the bolts that attach the leaf spring to the hangars.

The TTB center bushings can be replaced during this job, but they are difficult when working in the limited area under the vehicle. The bushings have a steel sleeve that you may have to press out and re-use. This depends on the replacement bushings. It is possible to do this job. Plan on it taking longer than the spring replacement.

Lou Braun

 

I did my TTB bushings in the driveway similar to what you describe, and replaced all of them with polyurethane.

My very first suggestion is to get two sets on jack stands, one set 12 ton, the other 6. You likely already have some typical 3 ton or similar. You are working on a vehicle of a different class of weight and the higher torques required of the hardware will have you pulling on wrenches much harder. And trust me, you will be glad every time you pull those heavy things out. A bottle jack is slow, my 3-1/2 ton floor jack will lift the whole rear, but the front end has to be lifted one side at a time with it. I got a 20 ton bottle jack because it was on sale and the lift range (collapsed to extended) was the most.

A piece of metal pipe, threaded rod, nuts and washers will pull the old bushings out. The pipe needs to be long enough to pull the bushings into it, and just large enough that the old bushings don't get too stuck inside. Where the factory bushing is too stuck, put a lot of pressure with the threaded rod/pipe puller and apply propane torch heat to the outside of the item it is attached to, and you will hear some satisfying (but faint) snaps as the rubber releases. Dial up the torque on the puller again and reheat.

Have at least one set of ratchet straps on hand as they will help you get things pulled back into place. A long pipe wrench or crescent wrench can help apply some twist, a C clamp will work in a pinch.

As Lou Braun suggested, I too would do the bushings when you replaced the springs. Half of the project is getting the truck lifted and safely stable.

Assuming your new leafs have new rubber bushings at both ends, other than the center pivots bushings, the other ones are two on either end of the surprisingly small front shackle. I've read that they are stupid expensive from Ford, but please invesigate yourself. Yours are shot. The second they left the dealer's lot they were worn out. Get a new pair or plan on the time to replace them too.

It seems to be a daunting task. But you will be proud when you are done.

 

Thanks all for the replies.

I went back out yesterday and tried to get the spring lined up with the axl. This time I removed the front shackle and hooked up the spring to the axl. It seemed to work better but now the spring has a twist to it and I can't get the front shackle back in.

For the record, I bought a kit from ATS spring. Came with new front shackles, all new bushings and hardware. I didn't want to do the busings myself but maybe if I'm this far in the toilet with the project I'll bite the bullet and do the bushings. Worst case I just have to get the truck back together so I can get it towed to a shop. But at least the busings and springs will be new. They can just tighten/re-align everything up. My dream of having a lift is becoming more of a priority in my life. Ha-ha

How are ya'll supporting the truck? Right now I think because I only have one side jacked up its racking everything and making my life difficult. I'll see what I can pick-up at harbor freight in regards to a second Jack. I have two small floor Jack but of course the one is a "crapsman" and doesn't work 100%. I had a nice 8-ton bottle Jack, again a "crapsman", that stopped working. Why is it my harbor freight and wal-mart Jack outliving the craftsman product? They're all made in China and craftsman doesn't even have a rebuild kit for the bottle Jack. :::end rant:::

Maybe lifting both side equally would be better?

 

When I did this job, the truck was supported on both sides by using wood dry-dock blocks. These were located on the frame behind the front springs.

I needed to use a jack under each front TTB beam to help line things up during spring removal and installation. As you noticed, the spring seems to twist when it hangs free making alignment difficult.

As Leo mentioned, several jacks are needed for this job and the truck needs to be solidly supported.

Lou Braun

 

Thanks all for the help. Thus far I got the pass. Side back together. I went today and picked up another magnificent bottle Jack from good ole harbor freight. $25 less 20%. Can't beat it even if it lasts one use (which the 4 ton I bought was holding the weight of the entire truck all last night. The jack stand was set 1" below so if the Jack did fall it would have caught it). Anyhow, I leveled out the frame of the truck and the axl-spring was still out of sorts a bit but I managed to get it in line with my BFH and tightening down the U-bolts.

So last question (hopefully)...what's the procedure for torquing down the spring bolts. Do I do it while the vehicle is in the air or wait till its on its tires? And how much do I torque them to?

I just need to get the truck safely to an alignment shop. I'll let them go over the rest when they do the alignment. I'm not going to bother with the inner bushings myself. I just don't have the willpower anymore. If I had my garage and 4-post lift that'd be a different story. Getting old sucks. 15 years ago I would have gladly jumped in and out from under the truck. It's killing me.

Thanks again for all the input. It's really been a great help!!!

 

The replacement springs may have come with instructions and a torque value, but I believe that 85 ft-lb - 120 ft-lb is the value for '95 - '96 front spring u-bolts. I do not remember any special bolt tightening pattern - just bring them up evenly.

Recommend doing a final torque when the weight of the vehicle is on the springs.

Lou Braun