1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

1951 F2 6volt - no spark

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Old 06-13-2015, 06:55 AM
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1951 F2 6volt - no spark

Pretty much all original truck. 239 flathead 6 volt.

I just rewired complete truck with new wire harness. Everything else works all lights, coil gets power when key is on, just no spark. Truck ran before work started just to many bare wires for my tastes.

I know it is the distributor or points I just don't remember how to fix issue. It has been way too many years since I have work with points. When I changed the wire from coil to distributor the bolt spun inside the distributor. I had to remove distributor to replace wire on the outside. (Yes I marked where everything went so distributor went back the way it came out) I can't tell if anything got messed up inside though, but I am sure it did since I no longer get spark.

So my question really is what do I look for in the distributor to fix my issue. Did my point and condenser get fried do to a possible short when the wire spun? I am lost.
 
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Old 06-13-2015, 08:49 AM
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There is a wire from the inside of the post where you replaced the coil wire, to the points. It runs under the points plate. It frequently gets chafed and shorts out to the case of the distributor or to the points plate. Easiest to pull the distributor again and work on it on the bench.
 
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Old 06-13-2015, 09:38 AM
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I will pull it again and change said wire. Thanks for the response. I was thinking that might be it but also didn't know if there was an insulator on the bolt that connects to the coil wire.
 
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Old 06-13-2015, 12:35 PM
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Yes, there absolutely is an insulator. The T-bolt below is kept from rotating (on a stock wire) by the terminal on the wire highlighted (which is the one to check). As I recall there are plastic insulators, one on the inside, one on the outside of the distributor body, that the T-bolt passes thru.


 
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Old 06-13-2015, 04:07 PM
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Thank you for the view. I found this in my repair manual but sadly paper copies do bit view this well.

Guess it is time to get to work. I will pull it later and let everyone know how it goes.
 
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Old 06-15-2015, 04:12 PM
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Sorry for the delay. Thank you Ross (ALBUQ F1) that was just what I needed. Trunk is now running like new again.

Of course I am having issues with my headlights but I am sure it was my fault and how I wired my high/low switch, and for some reason I can't get the Generator to show charging on the gauge... but I will figure it out now that it is running.
 
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Old 06-15-2015, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Joey4420
... and for some reason I can't get the Generator to show charging on the gauge... but I will figure it out now that it is running.
Is the ammeter pegged to the left? If so, the wire running through the loop on the back is going the wrong direction.

You did say you're 6 volt positive ground, right?
 
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Old 06-15-2015, 06:15 PM
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6 volt positive ground. Battery is a little over 6 volts with engine off. About 7.5 volts with engine running. Charging/amp meter doesn't move.

I did follow wiring diagram so hoping all is right. I will climb under the dash again in the morning when cooler to check wires.
 
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Old 06-15-2015, 07:02 PM
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Believe it or not, gauges do go bad. Years of vibration, dust, etc. Simple test; turn on the headlights with the engine off. If it doesn't go strongly to Discharge, something is wrong.
 
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Old 06-15-2015, 07:10 PM
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Tried the headlight and it didn't move. I just need to double check my wiring since it worked before wiring harness change.

Yes I know it could have gone bad from just moving wires but I just need to rule out everything before buying new gauges.
 
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Old 06-15-2015, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Joey4420
Tried the headlight and it didn't move. I just need to double check my wiring since it worked before wiring harness change.

Yes I know it could have gone bad from just moving wires but I just need to rule out everything before buying new gauges.
If it worked before you rewired it, chances are good the wire is running through the loop in the wrong direction.

I would tell you to hook up your battery negative ground to see if the ammeter would move, but then you might have to polarize your generator after correcting it to positive ground.

The hot wire from the battery (negative) should go to the side of the starter relay and from there to the ammeter before going to the circuit breakers (if you still have them). That's a 10 gauge yellow wire from the relay to the ammeter to the c/b's..
 
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Old 06-16-2015, 08:09 AM
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I will try to double check wiring today between rain showers. Its going to be a long week...
 
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Old 06-16-2015, 10:50 AM
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Wow, I must have been blind... Schematic even showed the Big yellow wire going through the amp meter loop before going to the breakers... I didn't even see it.

So now thanks to all who have helped. Truck is almost ready for a long healthy drive. Just a few tweaks... I will start a new thread for other minor issue.
 
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Old 06-16-2015, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Joey4420
Wow, I must have been blind... Schematic even showed the Big yellow wire going through the amp meter loop before going to the breakers... I didn't even see it.

So now thanks to all who have helped. Truck is almost ready for a long healthy drive. Just a few tweaks... I will start a new thread for other minor issue.
Glad to hear that fixed it. Looking forward to seeing the first drive.
 
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