Stock tuning with some air mods and the red line capped:




I would focus exclusively on the anemic boost before I moved onto the EBP sensor. While the sensor is likely bad, that sucker ain't cheap.

 

Thanks for the chart, and the tip. I'm hoping to figure this out and then make a single parts order. As long as EBP is not reading really high it should not be affecting the boost or fueling right?


Is there any relatively simple test that I can try to to rule out issues other than air leaks?

Here's another KOEO (cold) reading from this morning:
EBP: 13.9 (yes 13...)
MAP: 14.5
Baro:14.7
EOT: 81.1

 

Spitballing here - maybe cap off the whole turbo inlet and apply air to the MAP tube, then look for leaks with Simple Green.

Again... the intake plenum seals are hard to catch leaks - but it has thwarted many drivers, including myself. There was the tiniest amount of foam oozing out of the edge of the passenger-side plenum (next to the boot) during a boost leak test, but it was enough to make a big difference on the boost gauge. If anybody has tinkered with the CAC boot on an intake plenum, there is a potential to damage the seal on that flimsy-*** beer can.

 

Why simple green vs soap and water?


OK, this is an important tip. It sounds like a leak too small for a "pssst" sound is still important to track down.

I was looking there pretty carefully yesterday, but I'll give it another shot. I do have the rif-raff boots, inserts and t-clamps there.


This was all I could find on the exhaust side today but getting to things to see or spray is tough... ( I did discover the rear seam on my muffler is going....):

 

Simple Green is the appropriate cleaner to degrease the engine (the purple stuff is too aggressive on many engine components). I don't see why we can't be productive while we're on safari for leaks.

Without a video, I'm not sure what i'm seeing here. Is that foam coming from the exhaust manifold? That's a lot. If so, that explains the bouncy EBP. Do I see foam coming from the valve cover bolt opening? That's a leak - you don't want it there.

This is how you solve an intake plenum leak after the CAC boot upgrade tweaks the beercan-ish stock plenums:

 

Here's a video (low quality) of the passenger up pipe. This seems to be the worst spot of those that I found. I didn't get to the intake side today:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1gE...ature=youtu.be


I'm chicken to just try to put a wrench on in and tighten it up. It seems like if the bolt breaks you have to pull the transmission to fix it.

 

It likely wouldn't help to tighten the bolts anyway, the surfaces will be pitted and whatnot.

When I bought Stinky, I didn't know squat about diesels - it just had that Tim Allen grunt thing. I soon learned the truck may as well have screen doors on anything that handles exhaust - I had to replace both manifolds, the up pipes, and the collector. Everything was toasted. I made Clay's day (Riffraff Diesel) by firing a huge Buck$Zooka round his way, then I kept yankin' on that trigger by letting the shop deal with the mess. It was money well-spent, because I have a good shop nearby - and he didn't try to fund his entire retirement plan with this one job. Stinky was a whole different truck after that work, then it was on to all the other woes.

As a way to save money, I bought a can of PB Blaster and just kept shooting the exhaust bolts twice a day for 4 days before I took Stinky to the shop. The mechanic said he had no problems with the bolts.

The bellowed ups are well worth the extra price. The install went smoother on exhaust day, and it made turbo days that much easier.

 

I assume these leaks found today are likely contributing to my low boost as well.

So I have to create a plan - If I'm going to replace the up pipes, then I probably should do the exhaust as well - or at least the down pipe. So I'm thinking:

1) Up pipes

2) 4" Exhaust or Dowpipe - will this gain me anything - all stock except AIS filter?

3) Penetrating lub on manifold bolts - see if they can be snugged up to remove the leak, if not then deck or get new - any opinions on a gasket?

4) New o-rings for turbo (need to R&R for up pipes?)

5) Already have plemum inserts, and boots.

6) Drill & tap manifolds for EGT probes while up pipes are out?

6a) I know it's not the typical approach - but is there a good post turbo install location to consider paranoid me - worried about the tip breaking off and going into the turbo..)

7) Other things to add to the list while the turbo is off?

8) I also need to figure out how urgent this is. I will be towing an 8,000 lb trailer - but only on the East Coast, so no huge grades on a regular basis. I suspect its not urgent, I can take my time and even make this a winter/early spring project. Is there any good reason to be concerned about doing this sooner rather than later. I can continue to inspect for soot and watch boost to see if it's getting worse.

 

Sounds like a good plan to me. Are you planning on running a single or dual pyros? I highly recommend duals.
4" exhaust I highly doubt will net you anything. If you're planning on upgrading injectors I would swap to a 4" otherwise no need.
You'll be fine pulling 8k

 

I have done extensive data logs and math on the 4" exhaust debate, and here is my conclusion: Under 20 PSI, 3.5" gets it done, which makes perfect sense with the stock 17 PSI boost. If your goal is to go significantly over 20 PSI, the 4" turbo-back allows unimpeded exhaust flow. AIS and 4" turbo-back exhaust with stock everything else (including the tune):



Manifold out, manifold out, manifold out - and dual EGTs have helped more than one member, including myself. My gauges have the temps color-coded (1250 is the line between yellow and red) to match the safety limits at the manifold. If you don't want both right now, but are unsure if you will get a second later - both left and right probe areas are accessible without removing parts.

EGT gauge is urgent when you have known leaks and are towing, the rest can be managed by watching you EGTs. I imagine you'll be anxious to get it fixed after slowing down to "keep a stupid needle away from a stupid red line".

 

I took a quick look at the exhaust. My original thought was that I should replace at least the down pipe if there's a huge benefit to do that work with the turbo out.

After looking at it, it seems like having the turbo out doesn't really provide any help for replacing the down pipe and/or exhaust.

Am I missing anything?

 

Working on replacing the up pipes. Is this the waste gate actuator clip I need to remove?

Also, it looks like I found some soot hidden up behind it. I think the wet is just penetrating lube.

 

Ah... you found the missing leak. That's great news! I see the EBPV link in the picture.

 

Any trick to getting the clamp on the rear of the turbo for the up pipe collector?

Now that I have some stuff out of the way I have some penetrating oil working on it. I suspect I'm going to need to wack/pry it - but I haven't found a good spot to try.....

 

I got 2 of the 3 pieces of the clamp off. I know the last one just needs a little tap with a screwdriver and hammer, but I simply can't reach it. I've been trying to get a screwdriver in there, but no luck there either.

I've got it soaked with Kroil for now. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for this?

Can I just loosen the turbo bolts and tilt it forward and back to pop the clamp, or does it turbo have to come straight up?