You'll need a torx bit to fit the center upper to lower intake bolt in the middle of the upper. Also helps to have a couple of old long carb studs to screw into the lower at the front and rear to keep the gasket in place as you drop the upper back on. Also inspect the rocker ends of the pushrods for wear before reusing them. The pushrods in the roller cammed motors don't rotate in service like a flat tappet engine pushrod does, so after a time the rocker ends wear to a somewhat wedge shape. No worries about piston to valve clearance here. You're adding .030 lift at the valve. The two different EFI systems was divided at 7500lbs GVW if I recall, it wasn't an early/late thing. Also keep some antisieze handy to apply to the EGR tube threads when reassembling it. Don't hurt to put that on all the bolts that go into or through aluminum.

 

I don't need to worry about the egr stuff. I eliminated the emissions stuff.
You guys are a great help, I don't usually get anywhere with forums

 

Comes with having too much free time on my hands since the drop in oil prices.

 

I've got a set of bolts with the heads cut off to use for studs when installing the upper intake on my Mustang. Sure makes it easier!

 

I made a set of these but they're old small block (long) head bolts, they sure make aligning the engine to a bellhousing much easier when working in the vehicle doing this.

 

No, Ford got an exemption for heavy duty trucks over 8500lb GVWR as they had the new Superduty with Triton engines in final planing stages for release in model year 1998. So there are many '96 and '97 old body style HD trucks(F250 and bigger) out there with neither mass air or OBD2.