I figured Id find palm leaves of something in the blower or evaporator.. But nothing is ever that easy.. It doesnt blow very hard but it is cold. And does blow cold air, just not enough.

I evacuated then topped off the system to 200 and around 35 psi. But even after hanging a sheet behind the seats, the cooling is minimal. It does work, but I need more.

What else can I check? Iv read air dampers could be restricting air flow, but haven't looked close yet. This is a repowered van.

Anyone?

Thanks

 

Does the fan operate properly? Not sure if that's what you mean, or you're saying that it still isn't blowing cold air. Get a small ac duct temp gauge and tell us what the temp is coming out of the air ducts with the fan on high.

You could check the ducts for leaks too, might help since these vans are so old now, or at least mine anyways lol

 

Sadly you share no real usable or helpful symptoms past "A/C sucks......"

Is the fan motor itself running at the different speeds?

Are the vacuum servos working properly?

Does the Max A/C function work?

Until you know for certain the air flow paths are working as designed its tough to read someone's mind.

 

I removed the fan last night. Cleaned that, and what I could of the evap but neither were really dirty. I tested the fan direct to the battery and it seemed to run fine in my hand, but I haven't had time to fully test it after cleaning.
Iv been told to increase my low side close to 40 psi , from 35 as I might not be flooding the evap completely. I also found a gap between the evap and plenum where the air leaked by and filled that with weather striping, further reducing air flow.

Low fan barely pushed any air before I started cleaning, and high still lacked the airflow I'm used to feeling on a good working system. The fan doesn't run with the ignition on. Seems the engine has to run but it was to late to test that.

The only servo I can see is the recirculation damper. But I haven't watched it during operation.
How many servo's are there? And do I have to remove the dash board to test them?

 

Only suggestion I might have is to check to see how much dirt has accumulated between the cooling fins of both the evap and the condenser. If you're careful and have a 'lower pressure' high-pressure washer, could clean out both to be sure that you have maximum airflow through both. The only other way to clean it out would be to use some pipe-cleaners and plain dish soap or mild engine degreaser.

 

I looked deeper today. My fan speeds are actually all working fine. My low side is about 40 psi, 90 degrees outside. I took it for a drive and lowest AC temp I had was 52 degrees, while the cabin was maybe 80 inside. Its just to big and to leaky of a space to cool down properly.

This brings back memories of hats and gloves in my old dodge van.

I feel like , even if my front AC was working like a top.. It still wouldn't cool the cabin down where your cold and need to turn the AC warmer..

Whats the best option for additional AC, not considering a roof top?

 

Are you running R12 or R134a? If R134a, is it a native R134a system?

Is it cooler at 50mph than at idle?

Do you have rear air? If not, do you have rear windows that open to vent?

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 191K miles

 

It's 134a. And I assume its native, as the ports look stock.

Not positive, but yes cooler running down the highway

No rear air, and yes the rear windows do open. The weatherstrip around the rear doors have seen better days to.

 

http://www.carbonitecummins.com/Docu...%20Upgrade.pdf

I like the first sentence..

He dropped discharge air temperature 10 degrees bypassing the heater core.

 

If it's sufficiently cooler at speed, the system is capable. Maybe your clutch fan is shot so there isn't sufficient condenser air flow when idling. Is there room for an electric pusher fan?

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 191K miles

 

No room for additional fan.
Maybe half my problem is the intercooler in front of my condenser.

 

Be sure to check that the heater core is being bypassed during cooling.

You can temporarily connect both heater hoses and then take the van for a spin.

If the system cools better after the coolant bypass, this narrows the problem quite a bit.

 

Thanks. That was one of the first things I tried and I noticed no temperature difference in discharge air unfortunately.

Mean while, I removed the accumulator/drier and orifice tube which was installed in the correct direction. I don't smell or see the ford black death, but I do see a few metal flakes on the orifice tube screen along with the black deposits which might explain my 39/260 psi condition.

Should I simply flush everything except the compressor? Or do those flakes mean my compressor is about ready to fail?



Thanks

 

Wow - that's almost as nasty as the one I pulled out of my Town Car when the compressor was knocking:



I don't know enough about AC to predict your compressor's future but a flush and a new O-tube wouldn't hurt.

Where did all the crud come from?

 

I hope I didn't damage the compressor by over charging using low side pressure. Plus I read a clogged O tube slows oil circulation also.

Now Im reading the flush solution doesn't evaporate under vacuum.. I'm glad I only flushed the condenser.

I'm finally earning that auto AC license Iv held for years never having really serviced one correctly by charging by lowside pressure. Bad practice.

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