So i have had a problem with my battery lately and i have done all the steps to try to fix it. First we took out the alternator and battery and had them tested at orielys and the alternator tested postive and the battery tested possitive so we had them charge it then put them back in. They told us it is probably a parasetic drain which means something is draining the battery so we detetched all my aftermarket stuff like my air compresor train horn and led lights on my grille gaurd and it ran fine for 2 days without dieing. well this morning i went to start it and it was dead again and i am out of ideas. if any of you have experience with this any ideas and tips would be appreciated. thanks in advanced.

 

Yep, Check each fuse for drain. Atleast then you can isolate it to a fuse
Cheap little meter in the link below
Sears.com

 

Dead over night would have to be 5 amps or greater from a fully charged battery.
My first suspect would be the Alternator may have one or more shorted diodes.
This will still allow the Alternator to charge when the engine is running but allow a discharge path to ground when not running.
An easy way to get a feel for it is to carefully remove the heavy charge lead from the alternator after the battery is charged.
With engine off, touch the heavy lead carefully because it is hot being connected to the battery, onto the alternator terminal.
If it shows any spark there is a leakage path to ground through the alternator.
Otherwise you have to have some kind of indicator to show when the path goes open from testing other circuits.
Good luck. .

 

disconnect the battery for 2 days and see if it will hold a charge itself.

 

good idea ill try that this weekend

 

yeah im going to do that. after jumping the truck i t ested the volts in the battery which was 12.6 and i figured i would pull the fuse for the radio and a few hours later the same reading and it wasnt dead. time to see if it dies tonight but hopefully i got the right fuse! thanks for the advice

 

Change you battery terminals. They are a crap design and split.
i had same issues. Terminals fixed it.

 

You need to disconnect one of the battery cables and put an amp meter (or DVM with amp capability) in series between the disconnected cable and its battery post. Now you will be able to read the actual parasitic draw. After all the computer modules go to sleep (maybe a half hour) you want to see the amp draw drop to less than 50 milliamps.

Once you have the amp meter in place don't open a door or turn any thing on or that increased load may pop the fuse in your meter.

 

is there a fuse for a radio clock that keeps the radio clock in sink. like the one that is on the computer

 

not sure im still looking for a truck