Hey guys.


So its finally happening. The build of my 89' 7.3 is finally happening. Plans for the 570K km engine are a majority of R&D parts: RD4-150 pump, cam, stg3 BWS366 turbo, stg 2 injectors, Hot side turbo kit, ARP Head Studs, Hypermax valves, main girdle, intake man, and shaved piston heads. will probably go with a water/meth inj kit later on. Not sure of what I/C im going with yet, possibly Hypermax for a PSD. Transmission is getting a lookover from a local guy. Plan on going with a Gear




The best way I can see to remove the engine from the old bricknose it to remove the entire rad support. This helped as the rad support itself needed to be repaired... Canadian trucks are not rust free.. at all...




So the first day, we got a lot done. We managed to get everything (or so we thought) out of the way. At this point I had about 6 hours into it. Throughout the build, ill be using this forum to keep track of my hours.




Both the old 7.3 and the ZF5 in the back of my dads F-150. Put the suspension down quite a bit, but handled the 1400lbs +/- perty good down the 400. Gonna take it to the car wash and soak it in engine shampoo to try and get it as clean as possible. looking a total of 11 hours.




That'll be it for now, will be posting more later tonight. Wash, then tear down of the engine tonight. Stay tuned for more!

 

I didn't know Justin was doing stage 2 injectors. What is different about them compared to the stage 1s?

Also I look forward to seeing this build. Is it going to be a slow build over time as funds come in or will it happen pretty quickly?

 

One more thing I forgot to ask, with all your planned mods, how come you are staying with the RD-150? Based off your plan, you could easily handle the RD-180 IMO. Either way it should make some nice power! Good luck with the build!

 

The Stg 1 injectors put out 33ft-lbs torque more then his original sticks while keeping the best spray pattern possible. Also, the funds are here, so this build will be soon in the making.

As for the RD150 pump, I want to just break 400hp, 800ft-lbs, but I don't want to be "rollin coal" everywhere I go. I don't mind a light haze, like the city busses here have a bit of smoke off the light, which I don't mind. I don't want a smoke monster under heavy load. With the RD-150, ill have lots of fuel, and lots of air to balance the mix, so little smoke, and better fuel mileage.

 

Pile-O-Parts starting to collect next to my toolbox. Not sure what I'm going to do with the old oil cooler, either rebuild it or replace it with a new one. What are your thought? Pulled the fuel pump, it said "Pierce", so not sure if its aftermarket, or factory. still works good though, so it may stay. Clutch fan is going to be an ornament now, plan on converting to electric fans to try and keep everything cooler.




Got the block pretty stripped down from what she was last night. Spent about 5 hours. still have a lot of cleaning to do before she goes to the engine guy this week (hopefully). good news is no bent pushrods. Bad news is I broke a fuel line (fuel pump to injection pump, was rusted out), and a return line cap. Maybe thinking about going with Stainless Steel Injection lines. Any thoughts? would it handle the pressure?

Total of 16hours

 

Uh, before you do that, have a read:

Mechanical fan vs. electric conversion....real numbers to compare

Something to think about. According to this, the stock fan is much more effective, if maximum cooling is what you want......

 

Or better yet install a Horton EC-450 electro magnetic fan clutch. Deals do come up on eBay from time to time. This write up is for a 7.3 PSD but could just as easily be an IDI.

Horton EC-450 Electric clutch fan drive. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

I doubt that a stock mechanical fuel pump could supply enough to the 150, I'd give justin a call and see what he says.

 

With your build I would definitely upgrade your valve springs to handle that power. Cheap insurance for your build. Here they are.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-910-16?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjw4-SrBRDP483GvreDr2ASJAD5sCIutotmSkuw54PkCVjoiY-FOCWSD0b3AT75H3Eo8G0WQhoClaTw_wcB

 

I bet the original fan clutch needed to be replaced anyway.

 

Definately will need an aftermarket fuel pump to supply the IP. Im running a SD 7.3 pump with a regulator. An air dog for a cummins might work without a regulator, but i would talk to justin about the pressures. I like my e-fans, sure they dont move as much air as a mechanical, but there are several hard working idi trucks running e-fans with no problem.

 

Right on, Im jumping in for my Sub..


No stage 2 injectors yet, and im not sure of a need really, I don't see gaining much over the stage 1's even with a 180, though I could be wrong. I was wrong about the stockers being plenty.


The 150 is basically the "Street" DB4, the 180 is the top dog. The 150 has all the workings of a DB2 (Cold advance, normal fuel input) while the 180 has no cold advance, and you have to run 10-20psi inlet to get 180cc at 2800rpm. The stock lift pump is only good for around 90cc, some more, some less, they are very hit and miss. The 150 will need at least a 30gph lift pump, and 35-40+ is better. Fuel system is where you don't want to skimp. If you are going to put that sort of money into a pump, you need to make sure you have the supply. Personally on my build, I did the dedicated return and Walbro GSL392 with a Pair of "Real" filters and never looked back. I had more problems with fuel system issues when I was running the old holley blue to stock filter head, making the extra work to do a dedicated return and good system worth it.


Remember, with the stage 1 cam, we have been seeing a lot more torque in relation to horsepower Vs. other cams, so the 400whp is probably going to be closer to 900wtq.

 

Hey y'all, no updates yet, just to the heads off. Everything looks the way it should,but I do have a few questions. OH, and I ordered my South Bend HD clutch and the transmission is finished being rebuilt. Total: $4,000CAD

A) Internals: Will the original 7.3l internals take it? I know the crank, connecting rods, and wrist pins can, but anything I should be changing? I plan on going with Hypermax Inconel exhaust valves, and Comp 910 valve springs. Any advice?

B) Head gaskets: Victor reinz, Yes?

C) Bore: I know its going to need to be bored out a little bit, (can't imagine anything less then 15thou, I mean... common.... 570,000km...) but what would be a "safe max"? I'm thinking anything over 30thou, and I should get a new block. I know where I can get one (if not a new block, a 90' 7.3l with 145,000km), cause I know the 7.3's were prone to cavitation. so I want to be safe.

D) Head Bolts: I coulda swore the IDI's had head STUDS! not head BOLTS! my 7.3 has head bolts... should it? do they make ARP Head Bolts?

E) Pre-Combustion Chamber: (refer to the top pic) This look right? It looks to me like they done come out of the head. But I'm positive they do.

Any and all help will help. Thanks a lot y'all!!

 

they make .020 and .030 pistons for em. Dont go any farther than you have to. First and more importantly have the block checked to see if you can bore it and how much.

 

Yes get ARP head studs!!! The head bolts suck and don't hold boost as well as studs. Bolts also won't handle the mods you are planning and you would blow a gasket fast without studs...