my 6.0 is toast in cylinder 2 and 6 as some may know so is some injectors 271k Miles on this 6.0 2006 of hard pulling and hard farm use but looks brand new still.




Not bad considering many 6.0 folks talk bad and have had bad luck and I get the grunt of this to lol


Anyhow im wondering since the Cylinders have no compression would it be better to just dump the motor instead of any port and work done to this motor?


I found a motor with 30kmiles for $5500 so im thinking about getting this it has a 3 year warranty on it as well.(This might last another 9 years)


Im going to do some calling around tomorrow and see what I come up with.




So im new to the truck stuff the last few weeks I have learned a lot mainly how to lose my *** on big boy toys lol


Got a good deal on the truck and I see why but now I want to do it my way.


I have seen Cummings swaps and those look spendy and don't see much gain in what this one had anyhow.


But im open to options and learning what to do im up in the air on

 

I would swap the motor and keep enjoying the truck.

the 6.0 is a motor that many experienced engine builders avoid. she ain't exactly friendly for rebuilds

I loved my old 6.0 and would buy another one. sounds like you got some good use out of your current setup, especially as a farm truck

 

That is true plus with Cylinders being down the motor could be stretched and a rebuild could later end up cracking the head.


These Cylinders dont normally lose compression im told and things can be done but at this point I think its best to do a swap as well since the motor might be stretched at other points I would hate to do a rebuild then have the head crack.






Now I think later on Ill call around and find out who can do this swap for me.


I wouldn't mind having that 3 year warranty on that motor as well.


Not many people around her do these swaps I have called around to few places.


I have a brand new turbo last week. Plus the pump that runs that filter and new Radiator and some other goodies so it will be like a brand new truck as well.


I might do the upgraded intercooler im reading about sounds like a nice thing but this truck hasn't had anything major other than the exhaust which the guy before me went all out and put in a nice system there

 

Call Anthony at SDS, and talk to him about rebuilds on 6.0s in general:
Super Duty Service in Grain Valley, Mo

Then PM a guy named snowskeeker, who did his own 6.0 rebuild:
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: Snowseeker

Anthony runs a 6.0-focused shop, and has documented several of his complete rebuilds of 6.0s on our forums. He had a bad experience with an engine rebuilder and apparently decided he can do it better, and looking at the business he pulls in he's right. These two guys prove Ty right in that rebuilds of 6.0s are hard to do correctly, so buying a used/reman engine can actually cause you more problems than finding someone who can rebuild yours correctly, because there's no telling what kind of crappy work was done to the used/reman before you got it.

Is the $5500 motor pulled out of a wrecked truck? What's the history on it? Is it fully dressed w/ the wiring harness, turbo and FICM? Most importantly, what model year is it from? There was some important differences in 03 and 04.25 engines that could cause issues for a direct swap.

Before you stick it in, you' might want to at least pull the heads and do some minor repairs while it's out, things that are easy on the engine stand but are harder when it's installed. Oil cooler, SCT fitting, EGR delete/upgrade, stud the heads, then the common minor mods like blue spring, block drains, and clean the EGR valve.

Unless these people want a core for their used motor, you could always get yours rebuilt and wait until the used one dies. I'd lean towards pulling the heads and inspecting, then if the heads can be decked/tested within spec at a shop then short blocking it.

 

I assume the mechanic pulled the heads to come to the conclusion that 2 cylinders are toast. If not, then, perhaps you have something a lot less expensive to fix. If it were my truck, I would want to know what exactly is wrong before making a decision on replacing it.

 

Had it tested at the ford dealership by a 30 year mechanic


Costed me like 700 bucks to do a full test of everything on this motor.


1 and 6 had no compression and was giving lots of oil blow by and the others were not getting good compression either. He said to me straight up that the motor was about done.




I called a few shops and explained to them and read the print out of the reports and all mentioned doing a rebuild is not worth it if the cylinders are not good because if they got that bad to not be good that there is a lot of stress in the motor and the head could crack at some point and it wouldn't be worth it.


Im replying some to the other post above as well regarding that.




The motor I got down to $4800 and it has 76000 on another one the one I looked at sold.
This motor would come with a 3 year warranty parts and labor if I have a certified mechanic install it.


I have had nothing but problems with this truck after only having it for 3 weeks spent 4000 already.


New sensors new turbo new sensor that runs the turbo big spendy sending unit I think its ecm? Forget the name but it was $500 part


Radiator, Alternator,Batteries, Turbo I mentioned that and many other things. All these things taken into account on a 270k millage truck.


If I have someone pull the heads look at them do all this time and money to find out all the tests were right then that's wasted more money.


But I do respect your post because im wanting feedback and I will again call and find out if that's good idea to pull the heads and look and all that.


This truck used to step on the gas it would burn rubber block long.


Now it smokes and I have the scan gauge2 installed and has like 7 codes on there both injectors on 1 and 6 are bad and some other problems as well.

 

The motor is dead after I had the dealership put the motor in and they run down the compression and stuff it wouldn't takeoff when I punched the gas I felt the compression gone. But when I got going it would haul butt.




The motor going down the road now is even less power
.


One thing I think ill do is Get the new studs I think for the motor and also the egr upgrade cooler

 

Really you have two main hurdles if you are going to rebuild your current long block. 1) Is your block, heads, crank and etc useable for the rebuild 2) Finding a shop that knows what they are doing to rebuild the long block right.

If you just want a stock engine with no plans for throwing on a higher power tune or a bigger turbo then the 30k long block you found sounds like a good option for you. If you plan on mods then you might as well have yours rebuilt and beefed up some. Regardless of which one you choose I would do head studs and the cooler upgrades/deletes.

 

I agree John,

and there is no guarantee that you will install that used motor and the head wont be cracked. If it were me I would at least have the head gaskets done and have studs installed on the swap motor, also depending if it were an early 06 motor, I would have the STC fitting, stand pipes and dummy plugs done as well, may as well replace the oil cooler and delete the EGR cooler too.

But like John said, what exactly is wrong with the old engine that caused no compression. The bottom end of the 6.0 is pretty stout.

Sarge

 

I understand. I have a good friend that owns a garage, and he will look at the options, and decide from there. What he will do is get the estimate for swapping in a motor, but will usually pull the heads just to make sure that's the way to go. Once the cab is off, his mechanic will have the heads off in no time. He's got one mechanic that has come in at 8:00am, removed the cab, done head studs and gaskets, EGR delete, (has help removing cab and re-installing that) and by 5:00pm calling the customer that their truck is done.

 

With the motor swap Im fine with stock there is plenty of power or was when I got the truck.
As far as if the other engine has a crack it does comes with a 3 years parts and labor guarantee on the motor itself as well.


If I go with just having them swap the motor out the door with this other motor will be around $7400


If I do the other upgrades egr cooler studs out the door is about $8300


I have already spent $3000


This last turbo blew up and parts of the metal I think got into the cylinder as well the rod in the turbo was snapped in half broke.
Its a rare thing but im told can get down in there as well parts of the metal.




Again to tear this all down and to replace everything what would that run me?


Not only that if they did do things like bore it out and redue things im still not getting that 3 year warranty .


I love all the points you guys make but im just wanting the best and logical option. I only had this truck 3 weeks I paid for what is just in the suspension on this truck so adding more money is not bad.




This King ranch looks like it come off the floor the interior is 10 just perfect . Older gentleman farm guy had this truck. Lots of farm use and highway miles only.


Im not looking for super duper power just something to pull my 38ft down the road.


Im not 100% on the motor swap But I do like the idea of the warranty on these motors.


I think I would do the studs and egr cooler I think it was upgrade and look into couple other things.

 

The problem I see with the used motor is this...

Do you, or the guy selling it to you know the history of the motor, ie. was it tuned, if so what tuner, any maintenance records etc. Some tuners are better than others, main thing is if the PO just drove the ***** off it you will have issues. Its nice to have a warranty, but if the truck is down every week what good is it and who works on it. If the warranty will be honored at a Ford dealer Id say that's a good deal, but make sure first.

Some of these A/M warranty companies don't cover anything and when they do they want to put used parts in and negotiate a labor rate with the repair shop, therefore most repair shops don't want to deal with these type of warranties.

Also if they are just going to install studs without pulling the heads having the checked for the common issues, don't waste the money on studs. Do it right, do it once, especially if it can be done with the engine out.

Just my thoughts and my .01 FWIW

Sarge

 

Ok im glad I took every ones advice.


It seems there is a harness that connects to the injectors the clamps are broke and not connecting so they hooked it in zip tied it and it fired right up and had super power.




this went from 10,000 to 1000


There still might be bad compression but might just be a bad injector.


I will know a lot more come tomorrow when they replace this harness.


But funny how the Ford Dealership told me im going to need a new motor makes me wonder about these places and im glad there are honest places to go and people that will steer you the right way.


I'll know more tomorrow for sure but he plugged it in and there was no lack in power at all.

 

FICM connectors on the injector harness broke? VERY common on the 6.0 if you manhandle them when you remove the FICM.

These little *******s?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11252042

 

Awesome find! Keep us posted.