Well I've determined the dtr is bad, hopefully that will solve all my problems

 

thats good how did you determine it was bad. i had mis took your post about jumping the relay i was assuming you were jumping the switched crank feed to the starter but you were actually jumping the constant supply key in run so the problem was most likely you had no power when you hit crank. thats why i suggested a short. so i take it now you checked for input to your dtr in park during a crank and got power going in but none going out.

 

Well, that wasn't all. The pcm is fried I believe. Tested the entire starting system again and replaced the dtr and still wont crank. Obd port is getting power and the scanner wont link, voltage to tps, coils, and fuses 31 32 and 33 are only seeing nine volts and I'm not seeing grounds at several points in the pcm

 

The pcm may be fried but why did it fry? you need to find and fix that because the same thing will happen again if you do not. where are you loosing grounds because if its an input then the PCM can NOT work properly with out it if its an out put then you need to verify power and ground to the PCM accordingly. Not sure what key position you checked the fuses in but that sounds like a main voltage issue or bad connection. Have you checked power or ground out of the computer connector.

 

The starter shorting out caused it. I've
Been through the entire harness and found nothing else. There is an obvious arc on the cap and the inside is burnt and black. The owner told Me when it started knocking that he mashed on it. You can tell that the engine got extremely hot and it must have melted the rubber insulators causing it to short out. The solenoid was smoking and I had to pull the neg cable off. Wasn't cranking it too long either, just three or four seconds at a time to build pressure. Third time I turned the key it fried and every since I've had issues