1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Adding Work Lights! Anybody got a wiring diagram?

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  #16  
Old 06-08-2015, 08:18 AM
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I'm curious to know what wire goes to the back that is constant hot. Any extra lights I've ever done involved running wires all the way. And, I never used relays, just an inline fuse. I also used heavier wire and switches than was necessary. With LED's though, you don't need much to run them.
 
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Royson12
I think most trucks have a constant power back there, just for powering auxillary stuff in campers, trailers, charging brake batteries on trailers, etc....
Never thought of that.
 
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:19 AM
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I'll let you know what I find today. I'm gonna break out my test light, I guess.
 
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Royson12
Sure wish I had a wiring diagram... Can they be bought? I have 2 of these trucks, so it is something, I could use.
There isn't "a" diagram. It's a whole book. EVTM - best place to find one is used on eBay.
 
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Old 06-09-2015, 02:24 PM
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Found these on here! How do I copy a link to the thread? I'll paste it in. There are Many more diagrams in that thread. Complete truck, I believe. It's for a 97, but probably close enough.
 
  #21  
Old 06-09-2015, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Royson12
How do I copy a link to the thread?
Copy the link to your OS clipboard. Switch to reply editor here on FTE. Paste.

So the above diagrams don't show any always-on circuits going "back". Even the trailer charge circuit is dependent (as you'd expect) on the key being in the RUN position. And this is assuming you have the factory trailer relay add-on box. 'Course, if you do, you could hijack one of those circuits. You'd just have to jumper the terminals associated with the contact circuit in one of those relay sockets. For example, between the yellow and black/LtGreen terminals on the trailer back-up lamp relay socket. That would make the black/light green wire hot at all times. On a "generic" four- or five-terminal square automotive relay, the contact circuit terminals are number 87 and 30. In all these years, I actually haven't pulled one of our relays to see if it's numbered in that way (standard numbering is 85/86 for coil circuit, 30 for contact circuit supply, 87 for contact circuit "coil energized", 87A for contact circuit "coil de-energized").

(Hmmm, does that count as ZERO wires?.....)
 
  #22  
Old 06-09-2015, 08:17 PM
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One the first things I did to my truck when I bought it was run a new hot wire to the cargo light with a toggle switch and cut and seal the original wire (before you ask I put a fuse near the source of my new wire). I hate having the cargo light come on when the doors open.


Also if I am wanting to look into the bed at night, when you turn the interior lights on to turn the cargo light on, it glares on the window and I can't see out as good.


Kevin
 
  #23  
Old 06-24-2015, 04:17 AM
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This site has systems that are all self contained rather than cutting in to a factory harness.
They have a cool design going on.
4x4 SPOD Since 2005 - The ORIGINAL JEEP Over The Windshield Switch Console - Jeep Power Distribution System
 
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