Today I stopped by the only junkyard in a 120 mile radius of me. I was on my way to the parts store to buy a grant wheel adapter, since mine was stripped out by the mechanic. That hub was a pita to wriggle off.

So I walk into the junkyard office and ask if they have a ford truck from the year range 71-77. The old man looked on his computer and found 1. So I ask what the steering wheel are priced at. I was told $35, he pulls. I walk out with him to the truck. I look at it a 77 with the cruise control pad. I agreee.

The junkyard guy had me go back to the office and had me pay up front, gave me a reciept . I was told to come back in the morning for the wheel. I thought it was odd, but it's a small town and I just moved here, may be a local thing.

Today I went back to pick it up, I was handed the wheel no pad or nut. I asked and was told I paid for the wheel, the rest are extra....needless to say I walked out and am not headed there ag again.

My old town didn't operate like that. Is this normal or a con?

 

Sounds fishy to me. I wouldn't pay without walking out with the part. Wheel not being same as pad & nut is perfectly fine, but that should be clear when he hands you the part and you hand him the money. Possibly just a misunderstanding, but unfortunate that he does business in a way that allows that sort of misunderstanding in the first place.

 

Personally sounds a bit shady to me. It sucks when they act like that!

 

I wouldn't have paid 35 for just the wheel since it has some cracks, but with a 77 cc pad and nut to get my truck on the road yes.

 

I would tell him to use the wheel as an a$$ scratcher and ask for my money back..

My .02

 

super shady. I think it's pretty much understood when you go into a junkyard and ask for a steering wheel, you're asking for the wheel and guts. just like buying an axle, would he pull the gears out because they were extra?

 

It is bad business. I won't go there ever again. When it's time to switch my seats, springs, and instrument panel I will either be driving a few hours or looking on Craigslist.

I am kicking myself for paying in advance .
I live in an odd area. The parts stores, O'Reilly carquest and napa had to be argued with when I needed a rebuild kit for a motorcraft 2150 out of a 78. Thry didn't want to sell me a kit becsuse my carb is missing the ID tag, but I know it's a 2150 with climatic choke, short pump arm, not CA emissions, not high altitude. A standard kit a works fine on it. They were all trying to sell me a rebuilt 2150, no matter what it came out of.

 

1971/77 F100/350; 1973/77 Bronco; 1975/77 Econoline use the same steering wheel and horn pads except 1975/77 F100/350 & Econoline with Speed Control.

1975/77 F100/350 & Econoline with Speed Control use a unique steering wheel, horn pad and T/S switch.
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1975/79's with Motorcraft 2150 2V carburetor: There are FIVE different carburetor kits just for F100/350's. If the tag is missing, figuring out which kit it takes can be a royal PITA!

1963/74's with Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2100 series 2V: There is ONE carburetor kit for Passenger Cars/Trucks; 1966/74 Bronco's & 1969/74 Econolines.

So it doesn't make any difference if the tag is missing or not.

 

Unfortunately,it seems to be the way of the times nowadays.Take it or leave it attitudes are what you get in many instances. Searching and ordering parts frequently in my bodyshop business; about 90% of the time I get decent friendly people in the junkyards. But it seems that the 10% of the a$$h...s have the only part in the world available and you have to suck it up and take their attitude! Ordered a headlight for a 1991 Olds the other day out of Tennessee and boy ,I think that guy hated himself! Talk about rude! So,what do you do? Pass the crap to the next guy? Or keep on smiling and being polite? I choose to keep on trying to be decent. But.... ya' still have the urge to kill once in a while! Gary

 

Thanks number dummy it verified my shoddy memory why I thought that wheel and pad special. If I hook up the factory cruise system in my 78 could I get thar 77 wheel to work?

As for the 5 different 2150 carbs, I ruled 4 out based on emissions and features that left the 1choice. Climatic choke, short arm non California and non high altitude.

Plus as for the junkyard before I stopped by I called about a carb. I like having a spare on the shelf ready to go. That old man refused to sell me an old motorcraft 2150 because hus came off a bronco even though it would hook right up.

 

No.

I wondered why you were looking for a 1971/77 steering wheel, when your "About Me" profile says 1978.

1971/77 steering wheels are not the same as 1978/79. The 1973/77 T/S switches are not the same as 1978/79.

1978/79's use different horn pads than 1971/77's. 1978/79 Speed Control switch is different than 1975/77.

1978/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline: 4 different steering wheels; 3 different T/S switches:

D8TZ-3600-A .. 16" 2 spoke black steering wheel without P/S.

D8TZ-3600-B .. 15" 2 spoke steering wheel with P/S.

D8TZ-3600-C .. 2 spoke black steering wheel with simulated leather cover.

D7OZ-3600-B .. 3 spoke Sport steering wheel with foam cover.

D8TZ-13341-A .. T/S Switch-Use with Tilt Wheel.

D8TZ-13341-B .. T/S Switch-Use with A/T without Tilt Wheel.

D8TZ-13341-C .. T/S Switch-Use with M/T without Tilt Wheel.

 

That old man is just being an idiot imnsho and a wonder they even do any business at that. I get parts stores acting that way but they will even still sell you the part.

 

My truck may be a 78 f150, but the numbers on my steering flange, shift collar, and turn signal switch all point to the column being a 1975 column. The 1978 steering wheel don't fit on the round steering shaft

 

A/T shift collar same: 1965/77 F100/350 & 1973/77 Bronco / NSS same: 1967/77 F100/350.

A/T steering column flange: 1973 before serial number S40,001 / 1973 from serial number S40,001 & 1974/77 F100/350.

A/T T/S switch: 1973/77 F100/350 & 1975/77 Econoline (except 1975/77's with Speed Control) & 1974/77 Bronco / 1975/77 F100/350/Econoline with Speed Control only.

btw: There are no FoMoCo part numbers marked on parts after 1956, just FoMoCo casting & ID engineering numbers (if applicable).

And...you should not go by these numbers to ID what the parts fit, as FoMoCo is in-famous for replacing/updating 10's of 1,000's of part numbers EVERY YEAR!

 

Sounds like BS or a miss understanding on both parties. Either you did not clarify or ask good enough or he did not explain it good enough.

You should not of walked off. IMO you should of asked for your money back or for the rest of the parts, since he did not state that up front.

That is a bum deal.