Getting bored with the 94, thinking I might get into something different.

I'm wanting a 2wd with that old shop truck look. So it will be lowered a bit but it doesn't have to be the prettiest.

What kind of stuff should I look for when I start looking at these trucks?

Also, I've seen the cv suspension conversion which would be a dream to put in but otherwise, how low can you go with the I beams and how will it ride?

 

Decide on the basics: LB vs SB, engine, auto or manual. Stock discs or know that a disc swap and /or PS swap will be in your future. Factor that in.

Understand parts availability... for example, 70-72 repro grill shells are around $600. 67-69s aren't reproduced yet but I understand Dennis Carpenter INc. is working on it.

Rust.. roof rail, cab mounts, cowls, floor pans. I think the worst is the roof rail because of how it was assembled.

Lowering beams result in three inches lower ride height. The ride quality is the same since it only changes the relative position of the kingpin to the I-beam centerline. Ride quality will be a combination of tire, shocks, springs, and bushings. Definitely install a front swaybar.. it'll be a BIG improvement in handling.

Here is my '70 with lowering beams and an axle flip (-3 and -5):

 

Lowering beams give a 3" drop. It's all bolt-on stuff. The CV swap isn't a bolt-on swap.

'67 trucks have a number of one year only items; brake booster (if so equipped), doors, dash control *****, etc.

The cheaper the truck, the more work and money will have to be put into it to bring it up to the level of a decent truck. A truck in the $2,500-up range will usually be a pretty decent prospect to start with.

I wouldn't be too concerned about what engine is in the truck or what color the body is. Both of these things can be changed later, if they don't initially suite you. The main objective should be to find a truck with a solid body or, at least one that has VERY LITTLE rust in it.

A really rusty body will quickly eat up your money.

I searched for 5 months before I found the truck I bought (1969 F100 Ranger, 240 engine, C-4 automatic, 3.50 rear end gears).

This is what I got for $2,500.00 dollars.

 

My goal is to find one with everything there so I don't have to buy replacement parts. Patina is fine, I'll probably drive south to find one to avoid rust.


That is a really solid truck for $2500! I hope to do that well.

I don't care what engine it has, I'm going to build a 427 Windsor stroker in my spare time while I hunt the truck down and have it ready to go. Main goal is to just find a v8 truck so less fab work goes into swapping.

 

Well that would have been helpful to know....

Btw, not all engine stands are created equal.

 

Most of these trucks will have either a six cylinder engine (240 or 300) or a 360 or 390 FE. Frame-to-engine perches for 240, 300, 352, 360 and 390 will be the same. --although some difference on the left side perch on '69-up model, if the truck had a Saginaw PS gear box.

Only (factory installed) engines available in a '67 were 240, 300 or 352.

The 302 didn't get factory installed until mid-year '69 and above.

If you're building a Windsor stroker and if the truck you get has a six cylinder engine or an FE, you'll have to swap out the engine perches for the small-block style perches. If the truck is earlier than a mid-year '69, you'll have to drill the (4) additional bolt holes in the crossmember (2 additional holes per side) to bolt down the lower ends of the perches.

Comparison Photos of Engine Perches - FORDification.com

If you go with a CV front suspension, you'll have to completely fab your own engine perches.

 

With or without P/S makes no difference.

D4TZ-6029-B (replaced C9TZ-6029-A) .. 360/390 Left Engine Support / Obsolete

1969/76 F100/250 2WD & F350.

 

In a purely factory installed installation, the correct and corresponding parts would have been used.

Four decades later, a mix of all sorts of parts could be found on any given truck, from a wide range of year model trucks.

Certain left side perches for an FE will experience interference, if the revised perch isn't used with a Saginaw PS gearbox.

FE left side perch for manual steering on the left. Revised (has more curvature to the right) left side perch for power steering pictured on the right, in link immediately below.

http://www.fordification.com/tech/im...sidebyside.jpg

Not enough clearance of FE (manual steering) perch to bolt up to installation of the Saginaw PS gear box shown in link below.

http://www.fordification.com/tech/im...terference.jpg


How to Install Power Steering in a 2WD F100/250/350 - FORDification.com

 

I didn't think it was that important.

 

... And that's why I recommended to lay out what you want.. and now, need based on your plans for a stroked 351W.

What transmission ya thinking of pairing with that 427W?? AOD/AODE? 4R70W?

 

I'll throw out there that the 351W is a great engine, but fitment can be problematic. Depending on motor mounts, transmission choice, etc. I've worked on Fords all my life. I swapped a 351 Cleveland and C4 into a 79 F100 with zero issues. Putting the 351W and C6 in my '72 F100 has been a challenge. Even with the correct 302 motor mount stands, I had to redrill the frame and crossmember and move them forward for the drivers side head to clear the firewall. I cut out the floor hump and got a bolt on cover to clear the C6. Headers are still a challenge I haven't solved yet. Just some thoughts.
Try to find the most rust free truck you can find. That's the biggest challenge.

 

I figured a c4 or something would be easiest. I may do a manual with a floor shift, but I'd have to put some thought into it.


If the 351 would be hard to fit, what would be a better platform to build on? I'm not afraid of a little fab work but if it's going to be a nightmare, I may be better off going with something better suited.

I'd like to have about 450-500 horsepower or so. I don't need a rocket, but I'd like it to move.

 

The 351w stroker can make the power you want. I think the C4 will fit easier, unless you have the removable hump cover.

 

If that's my plan, should I hunt down a truck with a 302 from the factory?

 

When I first started looking for a truck, I initially wanted one with either a body in white or one in blue and, I wanted a 302.

I ended up with a green truck that had an inline 240 six cylinder. Not that you can't find exactly what you're looking for, but chances are pretty good it my be something totally differen't.

Again, it goes back to the importance of a solid body --over body color or engine size.

Not that any multitude of engines couldn't have been swapped into any potential truck you're looking at but, as far as factory installed engines go, Ford didn't put the 302 into a Bumpside truck until mid-year '69.

So, if you're looking for a truck with a factory 302 installed, you'll be looking for late '69 through '72 models.