I have recently rebuilt my 390 engine on my 1970 F250 Truck. It was rebuilt be stock. I still have the 2 barrel carb. All stock. I must admit I was a little disappointed when I did not really see a significant difference in power increase after the engine was done.

I was interested to know what are the best motor modifications to give me better power and response on my truck..

I know the 4 barrel carburetor and headers would be recommended.

I have heard of cam replacements... I do not know anything about this? Can someone help me educate me on this?

Also, some people mention head replacements? What's gain with other heads? aluminum heads?

Thanks.

 

Please read and be illuminated:

352/360/390/427/428 FE Series
FE Exhaust Manifolds and Why You Probably Want Headers
CarCraft Magazine: Build a Low-Buck Street/Strip FE
Sanderson Shorty Headers FF427 Reference Pics
Doug Thorley FE Headers
Barry Rabotnik's Survival Motorsports- FE Engines & High Performance Parts
Ford FE Smog-Legal Horsepower,Part I
Ford FE Smog-Legal Horsepoewr, Part II

 

I was in the same boat as well kinda. I blew my 390 up instead though haha.

I would say: a new intake manifold like the Edelbrock Performer or the Performer RPM, headers, mild cam, 4bbl carb etc etc.

Do you know what casting cylinder heads you have?

 

Thank you. Yes I was thinking about the manifold, 4bbl carb, headers but I was wondering if there is something else worth taking care while I have everything apart. I just had the engine rebuilt therefore I am not looking into a heavy engine rebuilt... only bolt on upgrades.

No I do not know what casting cylinder heads i have. How can I tell and why would this be important to know?

 

JMO: Maximize initial spark advance to the point of detonation - using the best gas you can buy, like 93 or 94 - and then back it off incrementally until the rattle is gone. Don't step on it too hard until you know the advance is not too extreme.
Eric

 

I want to add: A camshaft swap is more than you're wanting because most aftermarket cams lower cylinder pressure but I have had good results with the dual-pattern Comp DEH255 in low compression engines.
Eric

 

One mistake some guys make is using a oe stock timing chain set. If ya doing the cam make sure you use as after market double roller chain set.

Orich

 

Gf2501 - this discussion should alway start with the answers to three questions:

1. What is your target - HP, TQ, ET, etc. Be as specific as you can
2. What state is the engine in now? Assembled? In the truck? What do you mean by "rebuilt"?
3. And the kicker, what is you notional budget?

Answer those and you will get better recommendations.

 

Yes, all good points. Thank you for the input.

1. I do not have any specific targets in mind at this point in terms on HP. I am trying to learn what is technically feasible with a few minor bolt ons such as the manifold, headers, 4bbl carb would be first on the list and see what type of results I get out of that. I do not know what is the cost on the recommendable part numbers to be used for my truck.

2. My engine was rebuilt a couple of months ago and it is back on the truck running great. I believe that extend of the rebuilt did not include new pistons. I believe mainly new gaskets and seals. It runs smoother and reliably. But me been me, I wanted to see if I can get a little more out of the engine.

3. I am guestimating that the manifold, headers and carb may cost me somewhere around $1500-$2000, is that a good number for these items? I do not think I would like to spend any more than an additional $2000 on top of that if I get some significant power improvements, otherwise I'll just settle for what I get with the manifold, headers, and carb.

 

My suggestions. All prices are retail. It's swap meet/car show season so good deals can be had on previously owned parts:

Exhaust:
Long tube, Hedman Street, ceramic coated #89106, $490.
3/4-length, Sanderson #FF427 ceramic coated, $525

Carburetor, 600-650 cfm 4-bbl with vacuum secondaries:
Holley 4160. #1850s, $300
Edelbrock 1406, $320
Summit's house-brand: $290

Intake:
Edelbrock 2105. $340. Add the 2106 cam kit for $216
Edelbrock RPM 7105. $390. Add the 7106 cam kit for $248.
'could find a 4V cast iron version and do some home porting. $50.

2.5-inch, mandrel bent dual exhaust and mufflers of your choice. Budget $450. More better if you can get a DIY kit and DIY it.

 

This is excellent information, thank you. It does give me a good point to start and research on my own. I have tried to read but have become aware of so many options that it becomes confusing to a guy like me that does not have the expertise or knowledge to tell one apart from another.

I saw the edelbrock intakes with the carb and cam kits. Would adding the cam provide a significant improvement on response? What does the cam do? Is this an task suited for a handy guy with tools or better left to a professional mechanic? I have never changed a cam myself.

Thank you all for your input!!

 

The camshaft is the heart of the engine... it's what gives the engine its character by dictating the engine's timing of when, how long, and what rate the valves open. For example, a hight lift cam allows more air and fuel to enter the cylinders thus resulting in more energy (hp and tq) to be generated.

Read the articles I posted above for information.

I dunno how wrenchworthy you are so that is a question you'll have to answer to yourself after researching what it takes to do the cam installation. Get a manual.

 

In my very recent experience, my son was given his grandpas 69, 360FE. It sat for a number of years and after extensive clean up and clean out;
Pertronix electronic igniton
Flame thrower ign. coil
8mm wires
New park plugs gapped at .040
New cap and rotor
Set the timing and tuned carb with a vacuum gauge
I think i was into it for about $230

Really woke her up.

Upgrading the cam as HIO suggested is a great move. While your into it that far, get rid of that 400# intake (80# in reality) and a 4V carb as others have suggested. Keep in mind, if the spark doesn't get put where it needs to be, you could find yourself beating your head on a wall.

 

great info from above HIO, thanks

 

This is not engine related but if you have a C6 transmission and it should need rebuilding, have the re builder install the wide ratio planetary to give a lot more low end. An F 250 is not as light as a 100 so any thing like that will help.