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Replacing 3 injectors, #2, #4  (how convenient all on the same side right?). Got to #2 and ran the injector hold down bolt out but the injector doesn't budge. Here's a pic:
The bolt isn't stripped out, I can run it in and out. I know your all thinking, #2 injector? That's the easiest one! Did I mention this is an E350? There's less room in there than #7 injector in an F series.
Any advice on how to get this out? I can't tug it out by hand, that much is for certain.
I have noticed some of them you can unscrew it halfway out before it actually starts jacking the injector out. May be your problem. If it is actually stuck in the head you are in for a adventure on a van.
Maybe you could loosen it up, pull the FICM relay and bump it over a few revs with the starter? (I've never done that)
I was going to try that next. Luckily a small pry on it witha nail puller and it loosened. Here's what the injector looked like
I can totally see why it doesn't want to come out now. Here's a good shot of the hold down bolt
Can you buy just the bolt and install the clip or does that only come with the bolt pre installed?
You get both at the same time.
Very happy that you did not have the ring
crank and drop it down the oil return. At this
point you risk a bent hold-down and a work hardened
ring. You don't want that giving way if and when
you have to remove that injector next time.
If it does then you might end up with it going through
the LPOP oil pump. I find that it is a good idea to
stuff the returns with blue shop towels and check to
maks sure I don't have any missing parts first. Once you
know that you have all the parts you can remove the towels.
You get both at the same time.
Very happy that you did not have the ring
crank and drop it down the oil return. At this
point you risk a bent hold-down and a work hardened
ring. You don't want that giving way if and when
you have to remove that injector next time.
If it does then you might end up with it going through
the LPOP oil pump. I find that it is a good idea to
stuff the returns with blue shop towels and check to
maks sure I don't have any missing parts first. Once you
know that you have all the parts you can remove the towels.
Actually I think I will give him a call. This is for a friend anyways, not sure where he wanted to get the new ones from.
Assume something was dropped down the oil return hole (like a t40 bit possibly), could that really make it's way past the pick up screen? I dropped two down my excursion. A year later I replaced the front cover gasket and lpop cover. I didn't see any damage to the gear pump but...
It's smaller things like needle bearings from the lifters and the little ring that
holds the bolt in the clamp and we can't forget the small parts with your working
on the valve train. The Apex bit should not be a problem.
I haven't inspected the injectors yet but just looking at the picture I posted (I was on my phone and now I'm on PC) and I can clearly see there is no crush washer.
Looking at that injector it looks like either there was no crush washer ever installed or else it clearly failed. I assume a pick set will help me dig it out? I've done about 15 injectors so far in various vehicles and never had one come out without the washer.
Purple fuel would of been Avgas not any kerosene based jet fuel.
Aviation gasoline 82UL purple dye
As much as I hate to use this. I looked for my little book and did not
find it so I will fall back on this.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avgas
Reid vapor pressure (RVP) is a common measure of the volatility of
gasoline. It is defined as the absolute vapor pressure exerted by a liquid
at 100 °F (37.8 °C) as determined by the test method ASTM-D-323.
I couldn't imagine pulling the head in this van...assuming I could even clear the bolts out far enough and the push rods to even get it out....ughhhhhh!
But I was lucky and was able to pry it out. I'm just worried because the crush washer wasn't on that injector and how hard it will be to fish that puppy out?? Of course there is the possibility there wasn't one. 230k miles on a 2007 van, have to assume its an original injector. I'm thinking theres no way OEM would miss a critical item like the crush washer, so it should still be in there?
Nathan66669, I can't tell you for sure why you have the problem but thanks to Anthony posting those great videos, I can tell you exactly why his happened. Anthony has the wrong injector hold downs and the injectors aren't seating all the way in the bottom of the injector cups allowing exhaust gases to pass by the crush washer.
There are two different styles of injector clamps, one has a rounded back and the other is squared off.
There are two different style of cylinder heads. If you look at the "bump" in the cylinder head that is drilled and tapped to accept the injector bolt, one is drilled dead center and the other is drilled off center. If the hole is dead center in the bump, the correct clamp is the one that has the rounded back. If the hole is drilled off center in the bump, the correct clamp is the one that's squared off on the back.
The best spot to see the squared injector clamp is in the first video at the 1:35 mark. If you pause the video, you can clearly see that it's squared injector clamps PN 1838. In video #3, you can see at the :35 mark that the hole is dead center which means that it should have the rounded clamp in it.
There have been so many head swaps on these things that parts get mixed up. Many times people can get away with using the squared clamps in either head and they don't have a problem right away but a small percentage of the time there's a problem right away with diesel fuel entering the cylinder as soon as the key is turned.
In cases where the rounded clamp is installed in the hole that's off center, the end clamp usually hits the rocker box. In both mismatched cases the clamp will sometimes hit a valve spring.
05-30-2015, 02:24 PM
