6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

what would you replace

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Old 05-28-2015, 09:30 AM
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what would you replace

Hi all, currently working on a f450 with the 6.4 psd. According to my diagnosis dtc p0088 it's got a hpfp going bad. The man has previously had the pressure sensor replaced elsewhere. Won't lie I normally don't mess with these engines. I prefer the 6.0 and 7.3 psd to work on. That being said, I went ahead and took the job on. After a few minutes of head scratching, rolled up my sleeves and got after it. 4.5 hours later I've got the turbos and pump out. I guess I'm just used to working with tight spaces. So here's my question to you all. What is the normal must fix mod or repair while in there. Egr dpf and cats have already gone bye bye. I want to make sure I cover everything I can because I don't like seeing comebacks and we'll really don't like working with these engines.
 
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:07 PM
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What year and what job truck would be helpful. There is a wiring harness to replace that can cause issues on the early ones. It's under the hpfp cover...

Outside of that not a whole lot if all that has been done and there are no other problems occurring. Did you check base fuel pressure? Also there is a TSB for a flash update to eliminate the P0088 code on some trucks...
 
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:00 PM
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Ooh yea guess it would have helped knowing the year. The truck is a 2009 f450 4x4. Had updated wiring harness connector already and reflash.
 
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:10 PM
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I'd say you covered it then.
 
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:50 PM
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Did you lift or angle up the cab to access the turbo and pump?

How many miles on your truck?

If you've got the pump and turbos off, the only thing left in the valley would be the oil cooler I think. No idea what they cost.
 
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Old 05-31-2015, 07:49 AM
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I actually did the whole job without moving any part of the body.
Hardest part I found was getting turbos out and back in. They some heavy awkward things. The oil cooler had already been replaced about 1 year ago and a coolant filter kit installed. Altogether it took me roughly 9-10 hours start to finish. Bled off the fuel system and it fired on the third rotation and ran great. Test drove it released to customer . I called him last night and said it was running great took it on a camper transport run some 1800 miles away. They're not all that bad to work on after all. Pretty much like a 6.0 in an ambulance, pack as much junk as you can into the smallest space possible. Custom made tools I found are key to success.
 
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Old 05-31-2015, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 6ohdslbilder
I actually did the whole job without moving any part of the body.
Hardest part I found was getting turbos out and back in. They some heavy awkward things. The oil cooler had already been replaced about 1 year ago and a coolant filter kit installed. Altogether it took me roughly 9-10 hours start to finish. Bled off the fuel system and it fired on the third rotation and ran great. Test drove it released to customer . I called him last night and said it was running great took it on a camper transport run some 1800 miles away. They're not all that bad to work on after all. Pretty much like a 6.0 in an ambulance, pack as much junk as you can into the smallest space possible. Custom made tools I found are key to success.
Can you describe the custom make tools you used.
 
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Old 05-31-2015, 10:30 PM
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The tools that I made were simple. 1st up was a 10 mm long shaft combination wrench 6point. Heated and bent too about 140degrees. Basically almost a u shape. Works for getting to the turbo exhaust flange bolts. Next up was a thin blade long shank 17 mm combination wrench 12 or 6 point both work fine. Heated and bent a few times to find the right design to get at the fuel lines on the high pressure pump and p/s head fuel line without removing the glow plug controller. Just remember to have a thin blade design wrench to hold the coupler coming out of the pump. It's an expensive mistake if you spin it while tightening the cap bolt.
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 6ohdslbilder
The tools that I made were simple. 1st up was a 10 mm long shaft combination wrench 6point. Heated and bent too about 140degrees. Basically almost a u shape. Works for getting to the turbo exhaust flange bolts. Next up was a thin blade long shank 17 mm combination wrench 12 or 6 point both work fine. Heated and bent a few times to find the right design to get at the fuel lines on the high pressure pump and p/s head fuel line without removing the glow plug controller. Just remember to have a thin blade design wrench to hold the coupler coming out of the pump. It's an expensive mistake if you spin it while tightening the cap bolt.
Many thanks. Got another question ... how did you get leverage on that 10mm wrench? Seems like it would be really tough to get leverage on it to remove those turbo/exhaust bolts.
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:32 AM
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With the bend in it you can get a small pry bar or extension under it and pry against the turbo housing for break-away leverage. It all depends on which bolt your on as well. I used the turbo housing as well as the cab body to break things loose. I also found things went faster by removing d/s exhaust manifold then egr cooler pipe and then d/s turbo pipe. That open up all kinds of room.
 
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