So I'll start out with

Read through the recent alternator thread with nice picts on how to set the kickstand, etc.. I'm just trying to get the alt unbolted so I can finally put my OD pulley on...

Looking at the way the tensioner appears to work: the belt goes over the top of the tensioner pulley, so it looks like the pulley should move down to release tension on the belt. Yet the kickstand can only be set if the tensioner pulley moves up (tighter)???

I pulled the air deflector shroud off and even picked up one of those special tensioner tools -- couldn't even get that on the tensioner from on top. This morning I'm going to see if I can go in from the bottom or wheel well.

Hell it took me 30 minutes to swap Alts on the Expy and that was taking my time -- how do you guys work on the difficult parts if the easy things aren't easy?!

So which way does the tensioner release tension, up or down?

 

IF you can get your tensioner tool engaged in the tensioner from the top (that's how I do it, it's a booger to get it lined up just right but once it's in there your good ta go) push it towards the driver side to relieve tension and get the belt off. I don't bother with the kickstand, just let the handle of the tool go back towards the passenger side and rest on the battery (be careful about shorting the tool lines up nicely with the + battery post). It will still have tension on it, even back that far and will stay in place while you swap the alt.

 

OK, thank you sir! That is the direction it looked like to me -- I'll go give it another try from the top -- I even had a bungee to the hood latch, but it sounds like that isn't needed.

Hopefully I'll be reporting back in a bit with success!

 

YEA!!!

I ended up using a half inch torque wrench, and I could have used a pipe on the end of that (or so my back is telling me )

Funny part is: you ever get done with something like that and find drops of fluid here and there and wonder what you punctured?

Yup, you got it: drips of blood -- must be the aspirin and thin skin combo...

So, results: Measured 12.68V prior to start. Cold start (not all that cold mind you, but still GPs will run some): 12.53V and quickly climbing to low 13s, then Glow Plugs kick off and had 14.2V at idle. I'm happy with the results.

Prior to the OD pulley I'd see momentary blips down to 11.5V on cold start -- never really had an issue after warmed up, but it still would drop at idle even warm.

I think we're good now!

Thanks again for the help Rusty -- tried to rep you (again) but still in jail...

 

Anytime Dan! Glad ya got it done. I think my first time I spent more time trying to figure out how to get that small shroud off of the main piece. Still ended up breaking it and epoxying it back together. I hate plastic

 

When I replaced my alternator I just unbolted the alternator bolts - while holding on to the altnerator, then tipped the alternator forward/down and pulled the belt off. Placed the new alternator in place, tipped the alternator forward/down and slipped the belt back over the pulled. Put a rear bolt in and got it started by hand adjusted the alternator to line up the other bolts and tightened them all down.

I have one of these that makes working on top of the engine a bit easier..
(northern tools work platform)
Ironton Extra-Large Folding Work Platform — 330-Lb. Capacity, 40in.L x 15in.W x 19 5/8in.H | Folding Platforms| Northern Tool + Equipment

It was a bit tricky to get the belt back on with just 2 hands but was pretty straight forward.

 

I been meaning to give this tip for awhile. If useing the flat bar serpintine belt tool, put a 1" length extension on it and the length will come out right to clear the tensioneer hub.
Tip2 Put the extension and the bar adapter in the square hole first rotate the adapter if necessary.

 

One thing I've learned in more than 40 years of working out of a tool box...
There is almost always more than one way to skin a cat.

 

I know this works for single alt, but don't know about dual alts: you can pull up on the belt on the passenger side of the alternator and slip the belt off of the alternator. Then do whatever you need, and put the belt back on the same way - brute force.

 

Yup and ya better have eat your wheaties that morning cause that is one stout spring.

 

I just toss a 1/2 breaker bar on the tensioner and release it that way. Sure helps when you don't have that silly stator in the way.

 

I have a 1/2" craftsman ratchet that fits the square in the tensioner without messing with the stator. With a 24" length of 4130 tube over the handle it's a piece of cake. Tried the pulling on the belt trick, no thanks, did it once, no more.

 

I took out the locking bolt then used a pry bar under the upper pulley to move the tensioner. I tried for hours to get an bar in the tensioner hole just couldn't get it.

2006 F350 4X4

 

Grasp the belt with both hands below the alternator pulley on the passenger side and pull the belt to the passenger side, once you have the belt pulled back, hold the belt with your left hand and reach down with your right hand and set the kick stand. I usually bungee the belt to the passenger fender to keep it on the other pulley's while I work. When you are finished put the belt back in place and give the belt a good pull to release the kick stand.

 

You guys must look like dang gorillas! Yeah right, hold the belt in one hand and make a couple calls with my right, take a selfie or two...

I have a 24" torque wrench and wanted to put another foot and a half cheater on it -- I was just too lazy to go to the barn and get some pipe... Next time I'll have that piece of pipe AND a friend to get the belt on straight. Then just maybe, there won't be so much blood...

Gorillas, I'm sayin' the majority of you guys must be... criminy