So black is the throttle. I traced it around underneath the intake, and it runs into this little module. But I don't see where it comes out again to get to the pedal itself.

 

that is the cruise control unit.

 

Interesting. I unclipped the black cable because it just snapped onto the red one, and then I had no throttle control. Hooked it back up, and I did. I grabbed hold of it on the passenger side of the intake and pulled, and I could feel it pulling on that cable on the other side. That's the best I can do without pulling the intake?

 

You should be able to go from the pedal, straight up and forward to the firewall and find a cable running through with a nut/screw (i don't remember) on either side, then trace that same cable through the firewall and into the engine bay. Thats how it was on my 89 F150 (gasser but can't be too different). I'll post a picture if need be

 

I just got the new one installed, and it is SO much better.

I had the cables mixed up; the inboard cable is your throttle, and it attaches directly to the pump. The outer one is the cruise control, and it snaps on to the throttle cable.

Once I removed the intake, it was easy to see what was going on. The only other thing I had to do was remove the heat shield underneath the turbo to make enough room to slide the throttle cable in.

 

Alright, so minor update time. First, the bad. It appears as though my vac pump took a dump on me, so that will be getting replaced either tomorrow or the next day.

The good: I'm going to attempt a leaf spring upgrade in the truck. The springs in it now are looking tired; they're resting on the overload spring. Maybe that was normal for this era, I'm not sure.

But anyway, here is where I need input. I have a lead on a set of rear springs that came out of an '88 GMC one ton with a Dana 70 axle. They are 12 leaf packs with "one big thick leaf underneath for a total of 13," according to the seller.

The measurements seem like they all check out. My springs are almost 3" wide, these springs are 2-1/2" wide. My center to center on the shackle bolts is about 55-3/8", he measured his at 55-1/2".

What I don't know is how drastically it will affect my ride height. I'm assuming considerably.

Any potential problems I should be aware of? He's asking $350 for the set, plus $50 delivery fee. I haven't bought many used parts, does that sound about reasonable?

 

i would pass on them for now, and contact junior at ATS springs
ATS Springs
Leaf Springs and Suspension Parts by Auto and Truck Springs
Phone number: 1-888-943-8287

he has a very good reputation here for getting people the rite parts at the rite price.

 

Thanks, I sent him a PM.


So I hate to see my daily driver turning into a project truck so soon, but I suppose it was bound to happen.


I'm starting to suspect that my turbo may not be functioning properly?


I don't know if you're supposed to be able to hear the turbo on these older trucks spooling like you do on my 7.3 Powerstroke, but I don't hear anything. Even standing right in front of it with the hood open, working the IP by hand, I don't hear anything.


The PO installed a gauge labeled "Manifold Pressure," and there's what appears to be a sensor tapped into the turbo housing. I suspect that that gauge is supposed to be reading my boost pressure, but it's never moved.


Knowing how this guy treated this truck, there's a good chance it may just not work.


How would I be able to tell for sure if the turbo is actually doing its job? I know it sounds like an obvious question, but I'm kind of stumped.

 

you really cant hear the turbo unless you have open exhaust. and you will only see boost under load. just revving the engine will not make boost.

 

Ahh, that's unfortunate. I really like my old Powerstroke rumble, and boy she gets ta whistlin' when you put your foot into it.

 

you can only hear the turbo on my 88 at around 2000 rpm when the pipes are open and running through the stacks. with the muffler and turndown, you don't hear it at all.

 

Ahh well, I'll live with it.


I'm sure you know what this is like, but I am in a constant battle to score little victories over this truck. Today's focus is my turn indicators. The lever won't click and lock into either position. If I want to turn left, I can push it down and it will stay down, but it doesn't click or anything, just goes down smoothly and stays until I lift it up. To turn right, there is a distinct click, but it won't stay. It turns right off if I don't hold it up.


I wouldn't attempt to pull the steering wheel on a newer vehicle, but is it an easier task with these older rigs?

 

the one closest to your injection pump is throttle... the Outer cable goes back up and over to the bellows for your cruise control. as far as removing it from the firewall follow the cable and if I remember right there is a small screw that holds it to the firewall. The last time I did mine was almost 2 years ago so I do not remember for sure.

 

yes and no. it is not bad to pull the wheel, unbolt the turn signal switch. the problem is the wires. you need to unpin the connector on the new switch to get the wires through the column, then repin it to hook it up.
what i usually do is cut the wires off the old switch, then tape the ends of the new switch after unpinning to the old switch wires and gently pull them down through the column. once down bottom i repin the connector.

if any of that made any sense.

 

Hmm... Sounds like a long walk for a short drink of water lol perhaps it's best left alone