Yesterday I replaced my leaking injection pump with a new one by new I mean re-manufactured. So here lies the problem, I can't get the thing to prime! It's been extremely frustrating. I installed the pump carefully without removing the gear housing to lose my timing. I have fuel in the fuel filter there is fuel coming from the schrader valve, however it isn't puking out like my friends IDI, just a couple of squirts here and there. I've cracked my injection lines and can't get a drop. I've got the battery charger on now. What can be the cause?

 

This happens to me every other time when I have to prime, you most likely have an air bubble in the supply line. I'm also guessing you got them to seep some fuel and then progress just kind of stops. Loosen the IP end of the line from the filter housing and crank. It will take a few turns to loosen the o-ring enough to allow fuel past. Once there is a solid stream tighten it and you should have the lines bled in no time.

 

do you have the fuel solenoid hooked up?
this is the wire at the top right hand side of the IP
closest to the radiator.
when i did mine, i hooked a jumper wire to the battery,
and i also jumped the starter solenoid with my glow plugs disconnected.
i had injection lines loose from the injectors.

it took a minute, but i got the fuel to flow

 

I will try to loosen the supply line from IP. Yes the FSS is hooked up. I also checked to see if I was getting power to the FSS and I was getting just about 12V "I tested it with low batteries."

 

Sorry to double post. I tried to start but the batteries are so low its hard to get a solid start. You said to loosen the Injection pump end of the supply line right? Also what did you mean by get them to seep? On another note now my key ignition is all out of whack I haven't been using it to start because I have a fancy Snap-on remote starter. The key is in the on position when i turn the engine over.

 

Try this trick I've done when replacing the IP, disconnect the wire to the shutoff solenoid on the IP, crank the engine for about 15 sec., wait for a minute and crank for about 15 sec. more, do this one more time, this should fill the IP with fuel, then connect the wire to shutoff solenoid, then crack 4 injector lines at the injectors 2 on each side and then crank it over. Mine bled and started up this way.
Note: you might need to repeat this to get the IP full of fuel. You need IP full of fuel to get fuel to squirt it at the injectors.

 

i simply;

turn the key to run.let the electric fuel pump fill the filter.

after 1 minute, crank for 20 continuous seconds.

let the starter cool for 2-3 minutes.

turn the key to run and glow the plugs.crank for 20 continuous seconds or until it fires up.

i never touch the fuel lines or unhook anything.

 

You should have the accelerator floored when cranking. Makes things so much easier.
Watch this video:

 

By seep I mean that you got some fuel to come out of the line but not pulsing out like they are supposed to. I always loosen the IP end, might not matter but it makes less of a mess dumping it in the valley pan than all over your 1 and 2 injectors.

 

It turned out my batteries were just too darn low to get it primed. I left it on the charger all night and viola I got some diesel coming out of the injectors now. Unfortunately it's cost me my ignition switch. And I have to call a friend over to help finish bleeding it to keep the dang thing running so I'm not out of the woods yet.

 

Just replaced pump injectors lines and gp all I did was unplug gp turn key to on let it go for 30 seconds. Rebooked plugs and cranked for 10. Didn't start so waited a minute cranked for another 20 with foot on gas and fired up.

 

But check for leaks, after cracking line and nothing work backwards with all electrical connections. Full batteries helps as well. Then check for fuel from the filter.

 

Got her running by firing her up wide open throttle.