Help! need F3 box pics/measurements
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This is the first time I've really studied that part of a bed. Still a long way away for me. I wish I could make a line diagram of the cross section similar to the above middle wood cross member, but I'm working off the iPhone these days and don't know that I can do that.
Anyway, the goal is to have the piece span the full 54" width, weld into the bed sides, and support the ends of the bed boards. Again, the old scars should help you see what was there. Here's one of my trucks that still has its complete original bed.
These next two pics are of the bed from my project truck. Standing on end in the shop. You can see that it's basically a U channel, with a flat piece on top completing the box, and an angle iron piece on the inner face supporting the bed boards. The U channel is 3.5" tall and 2.25" wide. The flat top is 3.25" wide and aligns with the inner edge of the U channel. That leave a 1" outer lip. The bed boards are supported by a 1" angle iron aligned to allow the bed boards to meet flush with the upper flat plate.
The rear bed is then anchored to the frame with a long bolt through the top lip of each of the frame rails. The original bolts are special square drive flat heads, but I doubt you care about that. Here's the pic of the bed attached on my parts truck. Stu
Anyway, the goal is to have the piece span the full 54" width, weld into the bed sides, and support the ends of the bed boards. Again, the old scars should help you see what was there. Here's one of my trucks that still has its complete original bed.
These next two pics are of the bed from my project truck. Standing on end in the shop. You can see that it's basically a U channel, with a flat piece on top completing the box, and an angle iron piece on the inner face supporting the bed boards. The U channel is 3.5" tall and 2.25" wide. The flat top is 3.25" wide and aligns with the inner edge of the U channel. That leave a 1" outer lip. The bed boards are supported by a 1" angle iron aligned to allow the bed boards to meet flush with the upper flat plate.
The rear bed is then anchored to the frame with a long bolt through the top lip of each of the frame rails. The original bolts are special square drive flat heads, but I doubt you care about that. Here's the pic of the bed attached on my parts truck. Stu
#19
Stu, here is the Mid-Fifty rear cross member, you can enlarge the pictures there to see if it's the same.
1950-72 Ford F-100 Long Bed Crossmember, Rear Sill, Original Style
They also show wood mounting block to go inside the crossmembers? http://midfifty.com/item.php?INV_ID=9985
Here is the section from the catalog with all the crossmembers
1950-72 Ford F-100 Long Bed Crossmember, Rear Sill, Original Style
They also show wood mounting block to go inside the crossmembers? http://midfifty.com/item.php?INV_ID=9985
Here is the section from the catalog with all the crossmembers
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Thanks again Stu for the pics your help is really really appreciated. Thans harley looks complex enough that it might be better to buy it but the hard part isn't really the $250 its the extra $100 or so for shipping/doody etc. So the one part is basically just a valance I could figure that out later. whats annoying is my rear rails have been hacked off and the crossmembers are bent from someone using them to pull with. I think what I would do is start with a peice of tubing the correct height what is the measurement from top to bottom where the bolts for the frame run through? and how far down is the angle iron "lip"? I also need to know how wide the framerails (outside to outside) are so I can rebuild the rails, instead of pulling the crossmembers for now I'll just build a C shaped peice from channel the rear most piece being like an extra crossmember then tack it to the frame til I can get the cossmembers straightened etc........and why are you calling me o.p.? I never called you gomer or barney or andy...lol
#24
Thanks again Stu for the pics your help is really really appreciated. Thans harley looks complex enough that it might be better to buy it but the hard part isn't really the $250 its the extra $100 or so for shipping/doody etc. So the one part is basically just a valance I could figure that out later. whats annoying is my rear rails have been hacked off and the crossmembers are bent from someone using them to pull with. I think what I would do is start with a peice of tubing the correct height what is the measurement from top to bottom where the bolts for the frame run through? and how far down is the angle iron "lip"? I also need to know how wide the framerails (outside to outside) are so I can rebuild the rails, instead of pulling the crossmembers for now I'll just build a C shaped peice from channel the rear most piece being like an extra crossmember then tack it to the frame til I can get the cossmembers straightened etc........and why are you calling me o.p.? I never called you gomer or barney or andy...lol
#25
I think what I would do is start with a peice of tubing the correct height what is the measurement from top to bottom where the bolts for the frame run through? and how far down is the angle iron "lip"? I also need to know how wide the framerails (outside to outside) are so I can rebuild the rails, instead of pulling the crossmembers for now I'll just build a C shaped peice from channel the rear most piece being like an extra crossmember then tack it to the frame til I can get the cossmembers straight...
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