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When I was 13 my parents thought it would be cool for my first car to be a 1948 F1 pickup… at the time I don’t think I thought it was going to be so cool, but I was on board. We found a truck and started the restoration process. My father a life long mechanic had the truck dismantled and off to the sandblaster within weeks. He then tackled the flathead inline 6 and rebuilt it, and we had a running frame in about 6 months. Then came the bodywork… fast forward 34 years, and my parent brought me the finished 48 F1 just this last week.
It is a numbers matching original restoration. It is not award winning show quality, but it is pretty good.
Now on to the questions… I would like to use the truck as a local daily driver maybe 60-70 miles a week. I live about 5 miles outside of a small town, but the speed limit to get into town is 65.
1.) With the 4 speed rock crusher max speed is 50 mph in small burst.
2.) Drum brakes work, but seem a little scary to me.
And I would like to add that my 16 year old thinks it would be really cool to drive this truck to school… so I guess 34 years later it is cool.
What changes/modifications can I make to get it up to highway speeds safely, without reducing it’s value. And feel comfortable allowing my 16 year old to drive occasionally to school.
The simplest way to make the truck more highway friendly would be to replace the trans with a 3-sp floor-shift trans from any 48-52 truck. Totally a drop-in, except perhaps for some clutch work. Then swap in a rear axle with road-friendly gears, many articles on here about what fits and how to do it.
But if you'll be in traffic at 65, you probably ought to consider what brakes and wheels/tires you're running.... a slippery slope.
Just to follow up on Ross' ideas, swapping the 4 speed for a 3 speed will only result in a more friendly shifting action, no more double clutching and gear grinding. Both transmissions are 1:1 in high gear, so the top speed thing isn't going to change. You'd need to continue with Ross' step 2 and do a rear gear change to something more like 3.25 or 3.50:1 vs. the 3.92 or 4.11 you may have currently.
Alternatively, if you're in to a bit of surgery, changing the trans to a T5 overdrive will take care of both things at once. But it will take considerable frame mods and clutch linkage work to make happen. None of these things would be considered value busters, and may actually help more than hinder.
Welcome! Your truck looks very nice. I wouldn't change it too much.
You may have a 4.27 ratio rear axle. That and a four speed crash box make a really slow shifting, slow cruising truck. The typical bolt in changes are the light duty three speed transmission and a 3.50 ratio 9 inch rear axle from a 57-72 F100. You will have to get a driveshaft made to match the transmission and rear axle.
I personally advocate to not install a T5 since I don't like cutting cross members. Any transmission longer than the crash box you currently have will require cutting your frame cross member.
Welcome! That's a fine looking truck and a great piece of history. As Ross and Wayne pointed out, you'll need to change a number of things from the stock setup to handle the speeds mentioned. Once you get past a more friendly tranny and better rear gears, the brake upgrade would be appropriate - especially for a new driver. Most likely, you would put radials on, to smooth out the ride - and then consider a power steering conversion to overcome the higher turning resistance versus the bias ply stock. Creature comforts matter, so you would convert to 12V and think about some sort of sound system. Then, of course, you would realize that the cab is a bit too loud, so you would install some dampening material. While you're at it, seatbelts seem wise, so in they go. You also recognize that the heater is weak and there isn't any AC, so......
As was mentioned, it is a slippery slope. Keeping in mind, you are starting with a bone stock truck, which is increasingly unusual, and would end up with a restomod of some type. Your truck, your call.. A firm plan, ready budget, and realistic time schedule are all good next steps.
Thanks for the replies. I also thought where does it stop once you start, because I would eventually want all the creatures of comfort. I am torn because I agree with you a bone stock truck is getting rarer, but I also don't think it will get much driving in its current state.
Maybe if I start looking at budget that will help me make up my mind.
What a nice truck and great family story to go along with it. Folks who know have already given you the answers to what can be done, so it comes down to what you would like to do, or not do to it. They are only stock once, and learning how to double clutch would kinda be a cool thing for your Son to learn. What does he think? Congratulations on getting the truck, and welcome to FTE.
What better way to keep your son from speeding and teach him how to pay attention to the road than high gears and double clutching. If his hands are on the wheel and the shifter they aren't on a phone!
Just got to teach him how so he doesn't pop the 6 cyl
If it's a hot rod he'll drive it as such
Actually my son is better at shifting it than I am… I have been driving standard vehichles for most of my driving life. He is just learning so he seems better at it, which is good.
it is no hot rod. I think the only way you could hot rod it would be use the granny gear to climb to the top of a steep hill and push in the clutch on the way down.
I am leaning towards leaving it stock, and learning how to drive it better, so I am not afraid to drive it.
To be completely honest, a well done restomod truck with highway friendly modern brakes, steering, drivetrain, creature comforts will often sell for a significantly higher price than a totally stock one (with the possible exception of museum/show level 100 point restorations), and have a much more ready market.
Welcome to the forum! Great story, too! The simplest way to make the truck more highway friendly would be to replace the trans with a 3-sp floor-shift trans from any 48-52 truck. Totally a drop-in, except perhaps for some clutch work. Then swap in a rear axle with road-friendly gears, many articles on here about what fits and how to do it. But if you'll be in traffic at 65, you probably ought to consider what brakes and wheels/tires you're running.... a slippery slope.
I believe only a 3 speed H/D with F2/F3 rear mount will bolt in . The light duty has the typical F1 mount. trans aren't easy to come by though and then with the right rear mount...
If I'm not mistaken, if the F1 was special ordered with a 4Y/4T trans option, it would have the F-2/F-3 trans crossmember. In which case a Synchromesh would bolt in. minor driveshaft changes and some clutch equalizer shimming. Also solves hand brake issue if it's on the trans. ( EDIT: I see firewall handbrake so handbrake is not an issue). Not the cheapest option but definitely nicest to drive, call Chuck's Trucks, there's at least one available for rebuild.
Rear gears would be 4.27 or 3.73 usually. Being it only goes 40, it has the taller gears (unless it has an unknown rear, but at least 3.73 aren't too hard to find.
With 16" wheels (28.5" od) 4th direct + 3.73 should go 65 @2850RPM
If I'm not mistaken, if the F1 was special ordered with a 4Y/4T trans option, it would have the F-2/F-3 trans crossmember. In which case a Synchromesh would bolt in.
I'm not sure if this is correct. I've got a 52 F1 in which the original drivetrain is long gone, but the glove box tag says it had a 4 speed (which would have been the crashbox) and it has the typical F1 trans crossmember.
05-21-2015, 02:14 PM
trans aren't easy to come by though and then with the right rear mount...