No no not showing off, me and my grandparents travel alot, I've towed about 5k with this truck and it barley wanted to go over 55, I'm gonna be occasionally hauling around 10k-13k and this truck right now can't do it for one I know some of these injectors arent in the best working order, and me and my uncle like to go out and have some fun with our trucks once in a while and stock at this point isn't cutting it, it's not the "my truck is better thing" it's just the enoyment of working on something like that and having something to have fun with and do work with too

 

Curious to see where this goes... Sub.

Nice truck by the way.

 

In all Honestly I'm not showing off it's something I have raised money for and is something that I'm having for basically me and my grandparents to enjoy if I wanted to show off I would've thrown huge injectors in it and got some cheap tuner to go full throttle with but that's not me😊 I chose 175/80s because I thought they would be perfect for the power I wanted and be good for towing but since I found out in 01 they went to these new rods I'm timid on them

 

Ok, let's cover some basic stuff first.

'Truck doesn't wanna go over 55mph with a 5k lb load'

Your truck is broken. I always recommend you make it run RIGHT and then make it run BETTER. A totally bone stock 7.3 Super Duty will pull 5k without knowing it's there and unless you are pulling Vail Pass - 55mph should not be a problem.

I suggest doing simple stuff like checking for boost and drive pressure leaks and verifying the health of your HPOP and injectors, etc with a pro scan tool (like AE or better).

As for a build plan, you need a better fundemental understanding of how this stuff works before spending a bunch of money and being disappointed. It's not totally your fault, it sounds like someone has fed you partial info - and it wasn't all accurate.

For starters, 450-500hp is way more than just 'fun to drive' - it's pretty extreme compared to stock. While that power can be made reliably, it is not cheap and has inherent risks.

My truck has 'Stage 1' (160/0) AC Code injectors and a T4/S366 and makes a little under 400hp. It is ridiculously fun to drive and has been towing heavy, drag racing, sled pulling and just making me smile every time I drive it for 200k miles now at this power level. My 'tow tune' dynoed 320hp and is what I run 95% of the time.

My all stock Excursion with good tunes dynoed 324hp - also very fun to drive. I mention this, because with common, inexpensive mods and repairs - you would likely be very satisfied 'having fun' with your truck at this power level. And that is plenty to break your local guys transmission build... A ride in a truck with this power level is in order if you haven't experienced that yet.

If you really want to spend $5-7k on your engine, that's fine. It's your money - do what you want with it. (I agree that investing it smarter is a better idea - and $5k buys a Fox body 'stang that is plenty fast enough to wrap around a telephone pole...)

A little understanding about how these injectors work and what those numbers mean will help you as well. I suggested the hybrids (238/100) because those injectors can provide anywhere from stock 'tuned' power up to about 500hp with the right supporting mods and tuning. The 175/80's use more HPO and are limited to how much power they can make. Some will disagree, but I'm in the camp that says if you want more than what a 'Stage 1' will do - just get hybrids and tune them for the power you want (or can safely make based on other mods).

Good luck and don't get offended by the advice ya get here. This forum is populated with people who genuinely want. to help you.

 

Sage advice for our young friend. These trucks are like a boat, a hole in the water you throw money into. It's not an investment. Far from it. As was said, your future is your investment.


If you don't have AE or similar scanning tool, I'd get that first. Learn what makes the beast tick and go from there.


I may play the part of internet ******** well because I am one in real life. Ask my wife. I just don't want to see people make the same mistakes as I did. I have thrown a lot of money into that 'hole in the water' over the years.


Good luck.

 

Trust me I know how fast money can disappear with these trucks . I do Appreciate the help, the reason why she doesn't want to go anywhere is part of the problem with my tranny, sorry for being a little dramatic. It pulled that load at 65 but at 55 my rpms were 3k and it took about a minute to get up to speed. Even with the trailer off it does this. This is why the tranny is out for the rebuild! on the injectors it's kinda what I read on some of the forums so that's what I thought would fit my application nicely. for money wise less is more! I mean those injectors go for 1800, the h2e is like 2500 and I'm spending 3k on a tranny! so I do see the money and that's without getting a decent tuner... so all the help is appreciated. Now with 238/100 would i need a better fuel supply?

 

Forgot to add, the truck has basically a banks turbo in it but I rebuilt it and put a ww2 in her it came with some plug in edge juice or attitude and it has 5 levels.(stock was actually better for towing then towing mode was) 1milage,2 tow, 3drive,4 race, 5 extreme. on 3 and up the truck runs really nice egts on extreme doing 70mph are around 500-600

 

http://swampsdiesel.com/prestashop/en/1999-2003/1967-175cc-single-shot-injectors-stage25-single-shot.html
Just the link the the injectors I was thinking about

 

Already got you covered buddy! I'm currently co-owner of Myou grandparents ranch producing hay and raising cattle! And I started my local blinn college here a couple months back and plan on a&m or Cal state

 

There are some basic building blocks I recommend for every truck, then you can start seeking more power.

First, get hooked up to scan tool and evaluate the health of your injectors, HPOP, etc and that all sensors are performing correctly. Also, fix any oil leaks and look for chaffed wiring and failed insulation at 'the common' failure points.

Second, (maybe should be first!) remove the wheels and inspect the braking system from lines and hoses to calipers, slide pins and pads. Also, inspect and adjust the e-brake system. Neglect here is not only dangerous - but can be EXPENSIVE! I have done $500-700 brake jobs on a number of these trucks that had been neglected. I have some specific recommendations for brake stuff when you get to that point (none of that cryoed, drilled, slotted nonsense either... )

Then, replace the leaky stock up-pipes with bellowed up-pipes if you plan to keep a 'drop-in' turbo. We'll talk about turbo options in a minute...

Next, install plenum inserts so you can upgrade to t-bolt style clamps at the heads. The stock worm clamps will always get loose over time and you need the inserts to be able to use the more powerful t-bolt clamps. Upgrading CAC boots is also a good idea because the stock boots are kinda flimsy and have a higher tendency to leak and blow off under higher-than-stock boost pressures.

Now the truck should be running RIGHT and we can make it run BETTER!!

You can be 350HP plus (fully 2x the stock RWHP) by just adding these Stage 1 injectors and good tuning using the turbo you have now. This is a super 'safe' power level that is really fun to drive and makes everything ya tow seem much lighter!

Powerstroke Fuel Injectors - Stage 1 by Unlimited Diesel - 1994-2003 7.3L

After trying several tuners and I recommend this:

https://gearheadautomotiveperformanc...uning-Products

If you are serious about more power than this, go to these injectors:

Powerstroke Fuel Injectors - Stage 3 by Unlimited Diesel - 1994-2003 7.3L

With these, you can either use conservative tuning and keep the turbo you have now or upgrade and see the full power available from this size injector. The D66 is a drop-in turbo that will get close to seeing max power available or you can go to a T4 conversion like the following link and turbo options are limitless (and significantly cheaper). Here is a great source and list of everything ya need to get into the 500HP range.

500hp 7.3L Power Combinations | Irate Diesel Performance LLC

To answer your question about fuel system upgrades - NO, you do not need to change anything. BUT, you must do the 'in-tank mods' and I strongly recommend a post-filter fuel pressure gauge. The FRx and Regulated Return systems, etc are all over-rated and provide no measurable increase in performance. In spite of what people believe....

Anyway, hope this gives ya something to chew on and I'm sure I've forgotten something - but I've got a date tonight!!

 

Ok things done that I already know. Injectors are going to be replaced with what I'm not sure. Brand new brake pads and rodors(breaks very easy amd grabs great) now testing the hpop is something I haven't done, now replacing the up-pipes has come to mind but I thought if I went to a t4 setup like h2e it comes with pipes and mounting hardware. The good thing about tuning is that gearhead is in Bryan and they are 35 mins from me I'm going up there next week to talk to him basically I need to find out what injectors and what turbo I'm getting (because people are telling me maybe 175/80 injectors with the h2e turbo is alot of money for alot of nothing) so once that's out of the way we will be set! I'm still afraid of my pmr rods but people say 900lbs of torque is the magic number for disaster with those so anywhere from 700-800 lbs is supposed the sweet spot?

 

You have been given tons of good advice here. Most of it was learned by making mistakes. We, the forum, hope to help prevent others from having to learn "the hard way" by sharing our experience.

If the truck won't pull 10-13k now and it should pull it w/o much trouble, maybe not as fast as you like, then, as others have suggested, fix whatever is currently broken before you consider any mods or tuning.

If you are planning on pulling 10-13k even occasionally, you will find that you will need to revert to a lesser HP tune due to EGT's, tranny temps, etc. How are you planning to cool it?

Even 350 HP is nothing to sneeze about with these trucks. The engineers who designed them never intended for the engines to produce much more than 250-275 HP to include the frame and suspension designs.

No one has mentioned axle wrap yet. You may want to consider the cost of adding traction bars whether they are aftermarket or some you fab yourself.
It'll be less expensive to address now than replacing drive shafts....once you start to feel the strange vibration that came out of nowhere when you hit the throttle, it may be too late.

 

I'm going to look into that, the reason it doesn't like the pull is because my torque converter is on its last legs and a couple of injectors are bad that's why I'm going with new injectors! But I will look into the traction bars

 

Ok so this is what I have been thinking the last couple days. Garret 38r turbo with bellowed up pipes, injectors I'm still unsure about but iv been hearing 238/100 hybrids?, next gearhead tuning is literary 30 mins from me and I'm gonna talk to them next week, or should I stay with dp? What are your guys thoughts?

 

That is your choice. I generally like to have support that is close to where I live.

GH has access to a library of tunes covering most performance mods. Those should still be available free of charge to you as you upgrade your truck...turbo, injectors, and etc. Verify this....

DP charges you for the updated tunes and does not have a library available (unless something has changed).

GH tunes are quieter and produce less smoke based upon my experience as well as several of my friends.

More smoke generally equals higher EGT's.

Given enough of YOUR time, money, and patience, Most tuners will eventually get it right. Some nail it the first time.

Also, don't forget that the tuner also commands the tranny pressures and shift points. Nothing worse than having a bunch of tunes that make you look in the rear view after each and every shift to see if your junk is in the road....it is even worse when you can't see behind you due to smoke.