Hello all my name is John Masters. I am a LEO from Western NC and I have always wanted to have a vehicle that I could work on. however I know very (i cant stress how very) little experience or knowledge about how to work on vehicles. I am a quick learner and I hope to get some information from the users of this forum.

I recently acquired an 84' F150 that has a 6" rough country lift, 35" tires, and an inline 6. The truck body is fair with some small rusty spots on the main body, and some more extensive rust on the fenders. The motor is running well as is the 4 speed manual transmission. The frame has little to no rust, but the frame (or the crossmember that the motor rests on) has been broken and is only held be a poor weld and two bolts. Also when driving the truck everything is relatively smooth until about 30mph when all H#(( breaks loose and the truck bucks and jumps (and nearly walks off the road). And the wheels have a obvious negative camber that I want to address.

So in summary I look forward to sharing my project with all of you and to learn from your combined experience.

If you are interested the photos of my truck can be seen on facebook at this
address https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

 

John - Welcome to FTE. But, what's an LEO?

As for the problems with the truck, I think the first thing to address is the broken crossmember. Once that's fixed, or while you are fixing it, check the frame around and under the steering box as it is likely broken there. And the check for other breaks, which you probably have - all due to the lift and big tires.

In fact, as I think about it, you'd better check things out before fixing anything. I say that because it is very possible you have too many breaks to fix. If that's the case you'd be better off to move the body and driveline to another frame.

 

Law Enforcement Officer; he and KSCop should get together and go bowling.

 

Ahh! Ok, thanks.

KSCop? He's AWOL. Haven't seen him on for quite some time.

 

I have had several mechanic friends looking at her over the last couple days and that is the only break/ crack we have found. Honestly the frame is in pretty good shape aside from the one obvious break but I will delve deeper and check again thoroughly.

What is the crossmember that the motor rests on called? I have been calling scrapyards and I honestly dont know what to tell them I need.

I have found a parts truck in TN with a clear title that has a locked up motor but no doors or bed for $350obo.

If I do pull the motor and the transmission to swap to a new roller, would it be a terrible idea to move the lift kit as well? I really have a thing for lifted 80's model trucks and I finally have my own.

 

I think Ford called it the #1 crossmember. I have a drawing in the master parts catalog that shows it, but I think that's it.

Check the frame under the sector box. The way they bolt on puts a stress riser at the edge of the box, and it isn't unusual for even trucks without a lift to break there. Dad's did and has no lift and was never taken off the road.

So, is it a bad thing to move the lift kit over? I guess it depends on how you are going to use the truck. A 6" lift puts a lot of stress on things, but if always driven on the street you will probably get by with it. However, take it off road and cause the frame to flex a bunch and eventually it will brake again. And the lift kit just makes it happen faster.

 

Im not a huge "off roader" aside from farm work, and pulling my truck up in a field to park and walk into my treestand. How difficult is it to move a body and driveline to a new frame?

 

The cross-member here is known as the engine cradle, not to be confused with engine brackets. Engine could be moving causing your vibrations, front end, driveshaft and transmission issues could be culprits as well. You have to check every thing. Also consider things like bent driveshafts, improper driveline angles (common on homemade lifted trucks done by inexperienced people). etc.

 

Welcome to the forums!

 

It isn't too difficult to move to a new frame. But, there is quite a bit of work. If the parts truck is a 4wd with the same axle ratio and good axles you wouldn't have to change the axles. If it was an inline-six then the engine perches won't have to be changed. And, if it had the same transmission you'd just move the engine over. But, in that case I'd consider using its body and bed and literally moving just the engine over.

 

I just read through your post, and have to ask - if it's just the engine crossmember, do you really need to switch to a new frame entirely?

LEO from the Charlotte area here, restoring a flareside - would be glad to compare notes with you! If you need a motor I do have a spare 300 I6 also

Best wishes and welcome to the forum

 

Glad to see a fellow NC LEO on here! I believe that the engine in this truck is a crate motor with sub 4000 miles on it but I appreciate the information and will keep it in mind. How far along in your restoration are you?

The truck has a 4 speed manual with a granny gear, and shifts smooth. I believe the roller I am looking at is an automatic trans and will come sans doors and bed so the main thing to remove is the cab. The body on my project truck is in pretty good shape but I probably will need a new bed.

I am still looking at my options and I have not decided on anything concrete yet. It all really depends on what I find when I look a little deeper and do more work.

 

An Update on my progress...After searching I found a replacement engine cradle, however after wrestling with the part for 10 hours or so the salvage yard refunded my money saying the couldn't remove the part. I had noticed another 80-86 f150 that was an XLT model and had a nicer interior and is displaying 80,000 miles or so. I asked about getting the dash out of the truck, but the owner said he did not want to part the truck out because it was driveable and only needed new brake lines. The truck has a clean title and was offered to me for $800. I am considering trading in my original truck and going with this truck as a project instead. The truck is an automatic with a 302 which is the motor I have been wanting as opposed to the 300 straight 6. The truck has similar rust issues to my truck as well. So my question is would I be foolish to trade possibly adding a touch of boot?

I would be keeping my roll bar and my wheels+tires to put back on this truck if i did trade.

 

Is think it is a good idea to trade - assuming the frame is solid. However, don't trust the owner that all it needs is brakes. The only way to assess the needs is to drive it, and if you can't drive it you have to assume it has multiple problems. Been there, done that, and have the financial scars to prove it.

 

Yea on that. It is sitting in the scrap yard but by looks alone this truck is much closer to being in my skill range to fix.

Another question. What is needed to put f250 springs and such under an f150? Is there a kit or would I be looking for said springs in the scrapyard? Also would I need to swap the shocks too? I would like to pull my tag along stock trailer some with this truck and the heavier springs would be beneficial.