The (I get them mixed up) castor or camber adj is IN the rubber/poly "C-Bushings" inside the radius arms (where they clamp around the frnt axle). Some don't know that (a different degree slant is cast into the rubber shape for each different amount of hight in the lift customized) but I don't think that an improper ( * ) to the ( " ) lift would create this problem.

 

I think the "that's the way they were from the factory" was in regard to all the slop. Some people think old vehicles always drove like crap. That's not true, they usually were pretty good new and they can always be brought back to good-as-new, if not better with new components.

As far as the caster / camber, it's caster you're talking about, how far back (or forward) a line between the upper and lower ball joints leans. I remember it by thinking about the wobbly wheels on shopping carts. They are called "casters" becausethey use the leaned back angle to make the wheel go straight in whatever direction it's being pushed.

I remember camber because it's the one that's not caster! It's how far in or out the top of the tire leans when you look at it from the front.

And yes, they make different C-bushings for Bronco front ends to adjust the caster.

 

Koouwell, Thanx!

"...seem like I can move this a significant amount before the wheels turn..."
doesn't seem like the "death wobble" (no track bar to steering geometry change) but "all over the road" can B alot of stuff.
Let's C...

Ya all set now Mike?

 

As suggested by 77&79F250 suggested, Red Head Steering Gears is one of the best. The Ford Truck Enthusiasts have a group buy happening, that will net a good discount. I just got a PM about it today. They are a little pricey, but make some significant improvements to them when they rework them. Probably can search the Forums for details.

 

You also want to make sure your pan hard bar (track bar, frame to axle) is as close to the same angle of degree as your drag link bar (pitman arm to tie rod). May need a track bar drop bracket.



HA old post, but whatever.

 

That what I've heard called what U post about, Jim:
"...your pan hard bar (track bar, frame to axle) is as close to the same angle of degree as your drag link..."
U must B a che**y guy (use of term 'pan hard bar').

AND
No, I never think it's too late to give good advice!
Keep em commin!

 

For troubleshooting the steering box, jack up the front end and support it so that the whees do not touch the ground and have somebody hold the steering wheel and see if another person can make the wheel move left to right on the opposite end of the box while the steering wheel is being held stationary. If you have that you have more than a dead spot.

I would also advise looking at the radius arm end bushings and the "c" bushing that attach the axle to the radius arm and the radius arm to the brackets in your troubleshoot.

These items can wear too and when you are driving on the road and moving the suspension around could be the culprit as well, especially if the radius arm bushing are dead... they will allow the arms to move around, and therefore the axle to move around. Also check the drag link too.
Also check the stupid things like the springs for crack or a loose detent.

 

Mike (the orig. poster) has not been around in 5 mo. (since May).

Seems the prob is between the steering wheel & box - he does not describe probs after the box.