So I've been a member here for awhile and have gotten lots of help. I've followed quite a bit of other users build threads and got a lot of cool ideas so I decided to make one myself.

I've done a lot to her since I got her back in August 2014, and she's been on a few trips so my first few posts will be getting everyone caught up to where I'm at now.

So here she is, my 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty Supercab Long Bed.





This past winter after getting the new to me cap and giving her a bath to get some of that road salt off.

I'll get some more pics and info up tonight!

 

Apparently most of the pictures of my truck were on my old phone and didn't get transfered to my new one. But I did find these from right after I bought her.





She's got the 5.4L V8, 4R100 Automatic, I'm pretty sure she's got the Dana 60s with the 4.10s but I have to confirm that still. 94000+ miles right now but she is my daily driver.

Since Aug. '14 I've had to do quite a bit of work to her. Typical Ford problems. I knew it when I bought her that I was probably going to have to do these things so I took that for what it was. So she's got new pads and rotors all the way around, new upper and lower ball joints, all new u joints, new stabilizer links, new sway bar bushings, new front axle seals, new seals that lock the front hubs when you engage the ESOF (can't remember what those are called), new fuel filter, new K&N air filter, new fuel return line, new automatic shift lever, new battery, new idler pully, new tensioner, new tensioner pully, new headlight control switch, and some new bulbs.

A lot, I know, lol. Now for some aftermarket goodies I've added. I added cab lights because I don't think a truck, espically a super duty, doesn't look right without them. I added a Pioneer 2600BT DVD Touchscreen head unit with a custom bypass switch and relay to trick it so my girlfriend can watch movies on trips while I'm driving. Also added my Rockford Fosgate Punch P2 Dual Voice Coil Sub and Directed 600 watt continuous compitition amp with a Power Acoustic Subsonic Filter, so I'm pushing 600 watts @ 1 ohm. I've added my Uniden PC78LTW CB and some FireSticks, Federal Signal PA300 Siren, some ELS (emergancy lighting system) lighting, Prodigy Trailer Brake, and some Husky Liner floor mats. Can't forget the cap, found a used ARE Z-Series Cap On Craigslist really cheap.

So that's pretty much it, hopefully I'll have some more pictures up later and more info on some of the projects later.

 

Nice looking truck.

 

Thanks!

Sorry no updates, between work, packing for a big move, and popping the question (she said yes), the last week has been kinda crazy.

Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to do some work and update this thread.

Right now I'm trying to decide weather or not to do some more things to the truck or buy a SKS off a friend... why can't I have enough money for everything?

 

why can't I have enough money for everything?[/QUOTE]




Congrats on the answer to the "Question"


When you get the money problem figured out, let me know too. I am still scratchin' my head, and smoke rollin' out me ears!!

 

Thanks.

I've been trying to figure out how to fund my fun for awhile. Lol, short of whoring myself out I havnt come up with an answer other then turn my hobbies into a career, which is why I'm going back to school, lol.

 

Great looking truck!

May I suggest rust proofing now before she turns to swiss cheese... it happened to my first truck and almost to my 2nd one.

 

Thanks, I plan on rust proofing it very soon. Havnt figured out exactly what I want to use or how I want to do it. I have some spots starting to rust that I have to take care of first and the entire underbody is full of surface rust so I have to figure out how to address that first as well. Any ideas?

I was thinking about that spray stuff that turns rust into a paintable surface then maybe some type of bed coating. I used underbody spray on my F250 and it helped but that stuff just cracked after a hard winter and that didn't work.

 

I just posted this in another thread. I have lots of rustproofing info and photos throughout my build thread.

 

Wizkid, I have seen your build thread, it's what inspired me to start mine. Some questions on the bar and chain oil, doesn't it get like rinsed off from the rain and regular cleaning and whatnot? As much as I like the Zebart stuff, I prefer to do everything myself. I hate paying for someone to do something I can do myself. Did you have any rust underneath your truck before it was Zebarted? If so, what did you do to address that first and did it come through the undercoating anyways?

I know on my old F150 I had a brush guard that had some surface rust and I sanded it down mostly but the hard to get parts the rust came through the bed liner that I had sprayed it with. I'm worried that if I do that (bed line the underbody like I really want to) the rust there will show through. Replacing the rusted areas is not an option and having anything done professionally is also not an option.

I'm thinking sand off the light stuff and spraying the rest with the stuff that is suppose to stop rust from spreading and turn it into a paintable surface, then getting the bed liner from Harbor Freight to spray the underbody. Now before anybody says anything bad about the stuff from Harbor Freight, I have done lots of research on it and have tested it out, as long as you prep correctly and good it will work out fine. Taking your time is key. Yes you have to do more coats then other stuff but it's still cheaper even with having to do more coats.

 

Well thank you, I appreciate that!

Ok.... bar and chain oil sort of gets washed off. Water and oil don't mix, so I am not sure if washed is the word. I would say that it drips for a while and then dries up. Two things happen here.... bar and chain oil leaves behind a slippery residue. If you think of how it is used in a chain saw, it makes sense. Well that road grime tends to stick to that film, leaving the metal underneath protected.

As a double whammy, bar and chain oil contains phosphorus which reacts with iron oxide (rust) turning it black. This will help put a stop to oxidation. If you are familiar with navy jelly, it does basically the same thing to rust.

The Ziebart package was offered to me at a discount through the dealer. $500 for undercoating, a deep leather cleaning, and diamond glossing the paint... on a CCLB. It took them 1 whole day just to power wash and undercoat it. I felt this was a good purchase because they will touch it up the undercoating for me each year for $75. This is my mind was well worth it. They have the specialized tools to get into all the areas you can't with a normal spray gun and you don't have to do it on a creeper in the driveway (although I do for the oil, but that's not too bad). They do a nice job and it was a great way to kick off my rust proofing. Have to bedline the entire underneath would've taken forever!!! And I would've missed a ton of spots.

The truck was pretty damn clean. Still had some factory undercoating and no rot. In one winter rot developed on the front of the inside driver's rocker near the mud flap. Oil put a nice stop to this.

Prep the metal and coat it with chassis saver or POR before bedlining it. This should help eliminate the problem because those paints bond to rust. I'd also recommend pulling the bed off and doing a proper job on it and the rear section of the frame. Those cross members are known for rot, so you don't want to skip here. Get the fender well liners. They are worth every freaking penny!!! Make sure you get the inner rockers under the cab really well too. They also like to go.

That is a fine plan, but the prep work will be a monster. There are so many surfaces underneath that I am almost thinking it would be best to media blast it and then power wash it. The bed liner worked great on my Ranger, but there are no hidden or pocketed surfaces like the F250. Ziebart actually drills holes and install little plugs to coat internal surfaces of the cab that you cannot reach with a normal paint gun and is a big reason these cabs rust out so often.

Hope this helps

 

It actually does help a lot. I didn't realize they went all out like that when undercoating. I may have to get a quote from them to see how much it would cost.

I do have the fender liners. They actually were installed by the previous owner. I was quite happy to see that. They also did attempt to help with some of the rust be it poorly. I did notice the cross pieces on the bed were pretty bad looking on the ends, but the bed seems fine from what I can see underneath. I've had it on the lift a work a few times so I could look. I will take your advice about the bed and pull it off and protect it well. I had thought about it already.

I've got only 9 weeks to get anything I want to do to my truck done before we move to North Carolina so I'm kind of on a time crunch because once we move money will be a bit tighter for a bit until my fiance finds a good paying teaching position.

Good news though, picked up a $1000 brush guard for the truck off Craigslist for only $175! The guy bought it for his F150 but he would of had to mod it too much to make it fit, duh... I pick it up tomorrow after work so I'll post pics then!

 

For undercoating of your undercarriage, doors anything- I would suggest por 15 with the prep steps. I works great if done right and you only have to do it once.

 

I will look into the POR15, thanks! How well does it hold up compared to say a bed liner?

 

No problem. Im not sure, Ive never used bedliner on the type of stuff. But to compare it, my old 7.3 I paint the doors and oil with por 15 rust and with 2 years of the hard winter chicago salt and 2 years or snow plowing no rust showed through the por 15. If that gives you a good idea. Its more than other products, but from a person who lives where rust is well know por 15 rust will save you great.

Here the link, make sure you follow the prep steps with the cleaner and metal ready.
Rust Preventive Coating