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Hey all, I have a few questions thought you might be able to help me out with. First a little background...egr failure about two years back, replaced with Bullet Proof Diesel kit and oil cooler kit.
The motor is leaking pretty bad at the timing cover and since its going to be open I'm going to have the oil pump replaced. I'm posting to find out what else you guys would think should be replaced while its opened up.
How many miles? I'm not sure I'd drop the coil on an HPOP without actual issues showing, it's not a cheap component.
Sorry I wasn't clear. I'm having the timing cover removed and while thats happening I was thinking to replace the low pressure oil pump and any sensors, parts, anything really that while its open should be addressed.
Ok, that makes more sense. So just an FYI on terminology, the LPOP is in the front cover, along with the water pump. The rear cover would be the "timing cover" because the crank and cam are set with gears on back end. I though the HPOP because it's gear driven off the cam on the back.
I can't find any pics currently (have to get off computer), but snowseeker and run6.0run both have rebuild threads that might show the front cover removed. Off the top of my head the LPOP and LPO regulator, water pump, ECT sensor, t-stat are in the front cover, but not a lot else.
Off the top of my head the LPOP and LPO regulator, water pump, ECT sensor, t-stat are in the front cover, but not a lot else.
OK so I just want to make sure that these are the only items that should be replaced while its open. Any other items that at 100K should go just to be safe?
The only things in there are the oil pump, oil pressure regulator, coolant
pump, the coolant temp sensor and the thermostat.
Ford has a set of numbers to check for inspection of the pump.
Not anything really hard and it can all be done with a set of
feeler gauges. You need to look for any damage from junk going
through the pump. Like pits or scratching the front cover where the
ring gear runs. Then look at the faces of the pump gears. Alter
that just making sure that the pressure regulator bore is clean and
free of any scratches and varnish.
You might want to do a low oil pressure test before you remove it to
see if there is any problems. If the pressure is up to snuff I would not
worry too much about it.
I do hope that who ever is doing the work has
the front cover seal setting tool or your going to have problems.
10-4 on the seal tool. If you have the front half off I have used the old 2X4 method to install in the houseing but I have also damaged more seals than I care to admit.
Use the tool makes life much easier.
10-4 on the seal tool. If you have the front half off I have used the old 2X4 method to install in the houseing but I have also damaged more seals than I care to admit.
Use the tool makes life much easier.
The funny thing is the tool is not very complex at all. BUT you do a better job
in getting it on right the first try with it. And without it.
Sorry I wasn't clear. I'm having the timing cover removed and while thats happening I was thinking to replace the low pressure oil pump and any sensors, parts, anything really that while its open should be addressed.
You should check the front cover housing and LPOP cover for noticeable wear. You can purchase a kit with pump gears, front cover assy, oil pump cover, pressure relief valve assy and gaskets somewhere around $500 - $600. Just a thought.
If you do decide to replace the crankcase cover with the and oil pump gears, you need to have your shop pre-check the internal spacing requirements involving inner and outer gear clearance, outer gear to housing cover wall clearance and gears to deck clearance.
If the new gears are to tight or to loose, the oil pump with not transfer oil to the upper valvetrain and oil cooler. This problem could delay repairs and end up costing you more to correct the problem. New crankcase cover are not 100% milled correctly form the manufacturer. Technicians will install the new gears, install everything else to prepare it for testing. A day later and you will be informed the truck is not ready and the shop can not establish base oil pressure.....take it me!!! Don't let this happen to. Make sure they explain in detail, why they thought the problem lies somewhere else.
You can also request information from me to give your shop if needed.
You could install the 6.4 banjo bolts in the fuel line. The 6.0 bolts have a check valve that "could" reduce the flow of fuel. The 6.4 bolts do not. The need or improvements from this mod are debatable.
05-18-2015, 12:41 PM
