Going to be installing studs on this 6.0 soon. Just a question about the notch on the crank being at the 6 o'clock position, that's with #1 cyl at TDC and then do I just leave it there as I tighten the rockers down?




Thanks

 

Yes that has all pistons below deck.

 

That's where I leave it. Crank them down then turn the motor over by hand a few times to make sure all is well.

 

Thanks for the help

 

I bent 2 pushrods on mine and am still trying to figure out what is making it pop through the intake after doing my stud install. I wish I knew about putting the crank to 6 oclock position when I did my hg install.

 

Yeah I hear ya. I think that is hit or miss on bending push rods. I knew about the 6 oclick rotation and it was a chore trying to do that. I ended up leaving it and installing my push rods and torquing them to spec . I went to the ford dealer where I buy parts from and spoke with 2 diesel tech's there. Neither one sets the crank at o'clock When doing head gaskets. One was apart when I last visited and he was finishing up the injector install. Didn't set the crank at 6 o'clock.

My only wish is that I knew about the shorter push rod when I did mine 2 years ago. Did my HG'S at 120K and just turned 165K and no problems.

Did you know about the shorter push rods and did you install them? They're .050 shorter. Basically the 6.4 push rod.

 

It is easy to see the pin to set the crank at 6 . don't have #1 or any of them at tdc. To give yourself more room on the right side, you can remove the left side motor mount and drop the engine down to the frame. There are a couple of good head stud videos on youtube.

 

If you unbolt the motor mounts and transmission mount from the frame side, you can jack the motor around more than one way to make getting to the rear studs/bolts pretty easy.