I'm looking for some advice/ help with a broken vacuum solenoid. The attachment male electric plug is broken off the body. So obviously it is not hooked up and working. I believe it's only necessary for Cal smog requirements, or is it a necessary part of the vacuum system? The Truck is running, but I'm having a bit of difficulty getting the fast and curb idle set nice. Could this broken part have an effect on that? If so I'm at a loss as where to buy a replacement, no one has any and it's obsolete from Ford. It would be easy enough to just take it out, reconnect the vacuum lines without t-ing off to it.
Appreciate any input
Robert

1978 F150 XLT Ranger w/ crew cab 460 w/ 2150 carb

 

What is the vacuum solenoid hooked up to? Canister purge? Carb bowl vent? Something else? Is it normally closed or open? Not sure what used a solenoid valve on these... but if we know the application, may be able to figure out something else that'll work.

 

It's hooked up to the back of the choke pull off, and from the bottom left of the carb

 

If my memory is correct it helps it to start in cold weather as part of choke system.

 

Interesting ... I can say that it's not necessary other than for emissions, if it's only that: the 2150 choke pull-off can be plumbed with no electronics in the loop. But if it's a feedback carb setup overall, I don't know what else may be involved: I've never dealt with a 2150 that had a solenoid anywhere near it. If it affects the choke, that could be relevant to the cold idle behavior though.


If you can't find a new one and are looking for an alternative, is it normally open or normally closed (i.e. if it's not hooked up can you blow through it)? If normally closed, you could try using a canister purge solenoid off another vehicle; if normally open, maybe a carb bowl vent solenoid, though that'd be awfully large by comparison.

 

It's open, I'm guessing it's just for Cal smog as it's a Cal truck. Just don't know for sure. I hope it's not for aiding the choke in cold weather, but never had a problem in temps down to 30.

 

If it's normally open (closes when actuated), and it's on the choke pull-off, it would prevent the choke pull-off from actuating when energized. Not sure what the logic behind that would be or what would control it, but if you don't need it to pass emissions, you should be able to bypass it and get things tuned nicely without it.