names justin, i acquired this truck from my grandmother, she bought this truck in 1977 brand new, no other owners, clean title, body has some damage, motor needs work, but i plan on bringing it back to life. has a 351w, there are some pics, im having trouble finding a good carb right now, truck has been sitting for 6 years, any ideas where i would even start? maybe lub up the rings and hand crank it to break them loose? if thy are frozen... ive never done this and would love some pointers, please help! any info would be great. also has a smog pump, how would i remove this?
https://imageshack.com/i/p8xbZx5Uj
http://imageshack.com/a/img908/3797/xbZx5U.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img540/4041/ZCEgxH.jpg

 

Fixed your pics below.

Get it running first before deleting parts. That way, ya get a good baseline of what works and what doesn't.

To break free and engine, pull the spark plugs and lube each cylinder with motor oil. Dip a straw in a bottle of oil and then cap the end with your thumb to suspend the oil (via vacuum) and deposit the lube into the cylinder.

With a socket on the crank bolt, rock the engine back and forth just a wee but to break whatever rust may have formed between the rings and cylinder walls. Upon fire up, it will likely smoke like crazy but it'll dissipate in short order.

of course, I suggest running the engine off of a gas can instead of the stale fuel in the gas tank.

Rebuild the carb.... a kit costs about $25. It's easy.

Unless it has been swapped, that 351 is likely a 351M, not a 351W.

 

Looks like you have an excellent truck to start with!


First things first! Don't tug on the crank too much or you'll snap the shaft and have a real problem on your hands.


Jack up the front by the frame to get some extra room. Drop the oil pan and check out the condition of the bottom end. See any chunks of metal? Inches of sludge? Bits of connecting rods or pistons?


I wasted three weeks trying to figure out how to unstick pistons on a 1961 before I decided to drop the pan. There was so much sludge and metal bits that the oil would not drain. One rod went on a rampage and DESTROYED the bottom end and cylinders.

If you answered no to all of those get a pan gasket and reinstall the pan.


There are many remedies to frozen rings ranging from diesel oil to kerosene. I'll let you google that and decide on what route to go.


Next, unless the engine has been swapped, you do not have a 351w. You likely have a 351M. Post the vin and we can help you out.


You are one lucky guy to have the AC system in tact!


Also, if you remove emissions equipment, be careful and keep small parts in baggies. There are members and ebay buyers that would be interested in such items.


Carburetors: They aren't hard to rebuild and the kits are cheap. Try doing it yourself.


HIO you typed faster than I did! Sorry for the repeat info

 

Above advice is good. I'm with HIO on get it running well first, before starting to modify/delete things.


From the pics, it looks like the carb is missing?

Is it a 2-barrel or 4-barrel manifold? In the former case, I'd look for a Motorcraft 2150 - you can find them pretty cheap used or in a junkyard and rebuild 'em yourself, as stated above. If a 4V carb, you can look at aftermarket options (Holley, Edelbrock, et al) or the Motorcraft/Holley 4180C that was used on a lot of '80s cars and trucks.

 

it is missing the 2bbl motorcraft carb it came with, but if I wantd to go with a 4bbl what all needs to be done? i know the basics of cars and trucks, just need a good supporter with this one,
Vin: f255r022617
only numbers i can see on this thing.
133 front axle body dr4
trans G 72
axle 37j

 

To go with a 4V carb, you'd only need to change the intake manifold ... to do that, you'd want to be certain of which 351 you have: if you post some clearer pictures of the engine (esp. focus on the valve covers, the water pump, and the area around where the distributor mounts to the block), we can help identify it for you. As others have said, a 351W never came in these trucks; a 351M did, but that's not to say someone couldn't have swapped in a Windsor.

Though if you're running factory heads, cam, etc. there's probably not much benefit to making the swap. A 1.21" venturi 2150 carb flows around 350 cfm anyway, and the original heads on these probably wouldn't benefit from much more than that: a 600 cfm 4V carb will do more for you if you have the rest of the engine built to flow that much too. The 2150 is a very good carburetor and when properly rebuilt & tuned, will be very reliable and easy to deal with for a daily driver. Less finicky than many aftermarket 4V carbs, and will do just as well for everyday purposes.


That said, if you're going to upgrade to better heads, intake/exhaust, cam, etc. a 4V carb would be well worth it to finish out the build.

 

The best way to get into a 4bbl is to swap the heavy iron intake to an aluminum one. Aftermarket aluminum intakes are either a square bore or spread bore pattern. Much like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-Performer-351m-400-Intake-Ford-Mustang-gt-Tbird-Cougar-F150-F250-F350-/191204021432?hash=item2c84a5d4b8&vxp=mtr

IF you plan on keeping the engine stock there is no real point in changing to a 4bbl. However, if headers, cams and other go fast parts are in your mind... there is no real point in keeping the 2bbl. Just money wasted on a carb you'll get rid of soon enough.

 

The 2 bbl carb on my 400 is supposed to flow 500 cfm according to the book, everyone is right when they say not to worry about the 4 bbl. 8 to 1 compression, pollution cam and timing gear, that weird hump in the exhaust port, you've got a few things to do to justify a 4bbl. IF you build up the motor go get yourself a 400 block and build that one up and swap motors when your done. Clean your old motor real good and keep the 400 looking stock and you can bs every body by saying all you did was to change the air cleaner.