400ci engines; from car or truck?
#16
. Yeah, obviously the casting number on the crank isn't the "only" way to tell if it's a 400... if the pistons go up and down 4", then it's a 400...
. And, of course, the top radiator hose has to go down into the block, not into the front of the intake manifold like a 221 - 351 Windsor...
.
. And, of course, the top radiator hose has to go down into the block, not into the front of the intake manifold like a 221 - 351 Windsor...
.
BarnieTrk
#17
Fellas,
UPDATE:
I removed the spark plug wires, heater & radiator hoses, fan and spark plugs. This engine still has the power steering pump and alternator (with their belts) secured to it. I also noticed that it also has an Edelbrock 400 intake manifold on it.
In an effort to determine if this is truly a 400 engine, I decided to check the piston stroke. I proceeded to turn the engine over to ensure get a piston to the BDC, however, when I put a socket wrench on the dampener bolt, it would not turn over. I squirted some fuel oil into the sparkplug holes and will let it soak in on the pistons for a few days....and hopefully will free up the pistons.
I'm not too sure about determining the stroke from the spark plug hole anyway, because it is above the top of the block deck and will add to this measurement - so what should be my total measurement taken from the spark plug hole?
I may be further ahead to flip the engine over, remove the oil pan and check the crankshaft for a casting ID........
BarnieTrk
UPDATE:
I removed the spark plug wires, heater & radiator hoses, fan and spark plugs. This engine still has the power steering pump and alternator (with their belts) secured to it. I also noticed that it also has an Edelbrock 400 intake manifold on it.
In an effort to determine if this is truly a 400 engine, I decided to check the piston stroke. I proceeded to turn the engine over to ensure get a piston to the BDC, however, when I put a socket wrench on the dampener bolt, it would not turn over. I squirted some fuel oil into the sparkplug holes and will let it soak in on the pistons for a few days....and hopefully will free up the pistons.
I'm not too sure about determining the stroke from the spark plug hole anyway, because it is above the top of the block deck and will add to this measurement - so what should be my total measurement taken from the spark plug hole?
I may be further ahead to flip the engine over, remove the oil pan and check the crankshaft for a casting ID........
BarnieTrk
#18
You can easily see the block casting ID with the engine fully assembled and even installed in a vehicle. If it starts with D7TE or D8AE it's one of the reinforced blocks. What you want to look for in addition to the ID code is the date code. If the date code is 7C02 or earlier, it might be one of the bad castings from the Michigan Casting Center.
Unfortunately, the only way I would be able to tell if it's a 400 is the crank marking or inspecting the stroke if the heads were removed.
Unfortunately, the only way I would be able to tell if it's a 400 is the crank marking or inspecting the stroke if the heads were removed.
#19
You can easily see the block casting ID with the engine fully assembled and even installed in a vehicle. If it starts with D7TE or D8AE it's one of the reinforced blocks. What you want to look for in addition to the ID code is the date code. If the date code is 7C02 or earlier, it might be one of the bad castings from the Michigan Casting Center.
Thanks for your reply!
JUST WHERE IS the block casting ID located on the block?
I have located the CF (Cleveland Foundry) cast into the top of the block, behind the intake, just to the LEFT of the oil sending unit. There is also an oval FORD cast inbetween the CF and the oil sending unit. Also on the top of the block, on the RIGHT side of the oil sending unit, there is a machined flat where I located a stamped code ' Z HA 2373 ' but I don't know what that is trying to tell me.
Do you have any clues to help with the the stamped code?
BarnieTrk
#24
Just above where the starter would be is: D7TE A3B
Although that casting number isn't on the list found at:
M-Block 351M/400 Parts Reference
I would think it would be safe to say that this casting number would indicate that this block was manufactured between 1977-1982. Although this still doesn't give me a specific year of manufacture, if I combine this information with the previously mentioned, Cleveland Foundry 'CF' casting mark from the top/rear of the block , the list information indicates it came out of a truck and lastly that it DOES HAVE THE REINFORCED MAIN WEBBING. All good news!
Thanks for all the help, Guys!!
BarnieTrk
#26
OK, so, you have an A3B, Bubba shows an A3A... that entire three-character code is just a revision suffix, I'd guess he never became aware of such a revision.
The D7 means the block was DESIGNED IN 1977; some parts they've designed have remained in use unchanged for several several years (even decades). But this has absolutely nothing to do with when the particular block was actually cast...
Bubba's site is good, read that and learn that stuff.
Here's another site I send people to on learning the FoMoCo parts numbering scheme:
Classic Mustang Part Number Decoding Guide
The D7 means the block was DESIGNED IN 1977; some parts they've designed have remained in use unchanged for several several years (even decades). But this has absolutely nothing to do with when the particular block was actually cast...
Bubba's site is good, read that and learn that stuff.
Here's another site I send people to on learning the FoMoCo parts numbering scheme:
Classic Mustang Part Number Decoding Guide
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