Bought a flat bed - need to make it a car hauler
#1
Bought a flat bed - need to make it a car hauler
I bought a nice used 14K lb 18ft dovetail trailer. It has two 7,000lb axels with brakes and LT235/85R16 8 lug wheels and the tires are only rated at 3,000lbs each. So I guess that reduces the GVWR to 12,000lbs. The tires are close to brand new so I don't want to replace them and I don't need more than 12,000lb capacity.
What are the best tie down systems/parts to add for hauling a 1967 F100? After that it will be hauling my water tank.
What are the best tie down systems/parts to add for hauling a 1967 F100? After that it will be hauling my water tank.
#2
I use ratcheting axle straps to tie down vehicles. One end loops around the axle or suspension and clips back on itself, and the other end hooks to your trailer tie down point. Then it has a ratchet to tighten it up. I use 4 of these, one on each corner, and I do cross the back ones, if the length allows it, as the lighter back end of the vehicle can "walk around" on the bed of the car trailer going over rough roads.
Tighten them down until they are tight like a guitar string, it should hum when you pluck it. Then stop somewhere early in your trip to check them to make sure they are still tight. If they're going to loosen up, it will be early in the trip.
Some states (California is one I believe) require you to use chains and ratcheting binders to tie down vehicles. I had a buddy in my drag race club get ticketed heading to an event in California, coming from AZ.
Tighten them down until they are tight like a guitar string, it should hum when you pluck it. Then stop somewhere early in your trip to check them to make sure they are still tight. If they're going to loosen up, it will be early in the trip.
Some states (California is one I believe) require you to use chains and ratcheting binders to tie down vehicles. I had a buddy in my drag race club get ticketed heading to an event in California, coming from AZ.
#3
Okay, I'll need to add D rings for the straps and I'll add one chain point in the rear to be 50 state legal.
So on the rear I'm guessing you are going from one side, outside of the shock absorber, then across to the outside stake pocket of the trailer. Seems like that angle wouldn't have much down force.
In the front are you saying it's still better to be on the suspension than the tire? If so should I be over the upper control arm or just the lower?
So on the rear I'm guessing you are going from one side, outside of the shock absorber, then across to the outside stake pocket of the trailer. Seems like that angle wouldn't have much down force.
In the front are you saying it's still better to be on the suspension than the tire? If so should I be over the upper control arm or just the lower?
#4
#5
On the front end tie downs, I go around the lower A-arm or the outer axle housing if it's a 4x4. On both front and rear points, make sure you're not wrapping the strap around where a brake line goes through. Or, when you tighten up the strap, make sure you're not into a brake line, or as the strap tightens, make sure you're not getting into the steering linkage/tie rods/center link.
After you do it a couple times, it will become second nature to you, and it will make sense when you put the straps on and watch them straighten out as you tighten them.
After you do it a couple times, it will become second nature to you, and it will make sense when you put the straps on and watch them straighten out as you tighten them.
#6
If you have stake pockets as it sounds like you do, there's no need for D rings, unless you just want extra tie down points. I have straps with chain ends for going around the stake pockets and axles so nothing can chafe. They work great and have never been an issue, the chains are a little tough to get around a 4" axle tube but the F100 won't have axle tubes that big. Hauled my Jeep that way for 5 years.
#7
I ordered a load distribution hitch this weekend and went ahead and ordered some 5ft long E Tracks with some straps designed to be used to go around the tire. They have rubber blocks that fit into the groves on the tire to keep them from slipping off. I decided on the E Tracks because I need to keep the trailer flexible.
It seems like a long way to go from the axel to use the stake pockets in the rear. Will that still provide enough down force? Otherwise I'll add some D rings.
It seems like a long way to go from the axel to use the stake pockets in the rear. Will that still provide enough down force? Otherwise I'll add some D rings.
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#8
If you have stake pockets as it sounds like you do, there's no need for D rings, unless you just want extra tie down points. I have straps with chain ends for going around the stake pockets and axles so nothing can chafe. They work great and have never been an issue, the chains are a little tough to get around a 4" axle tube but the F100 won't have axle tubes that big. Hauled my Jeep that way for 5 years.
#9
No, myself and my buddies all used straps like this....................
2" x 30' Ratchet Strap w/ Chain Extension - Break Strength: 10,000 lbs
Granted, we were hauling rockcrawlers that were already smashed and scraped up underneath so the chains on the axles didn't matter as far as scratching goes. There are tons of other options for different ends too. I strapped my Jeep that way even on my 101" wide goose and it never moved. I'd smash etrack on the deck.
#10
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#12
Flat hooks are great for tying down to stake pockets or rub rails, provided you go straight across to the opposite side of the trailer. Something like hauling steel, lumber, anything long. The flat hooks don't work very well for angles or vehicles, as the chances of finding somewhere to hook one on a vehicle is slim, and they'll pull uneven on angles. My arsenal of straps and chains has no flat hooks, I find they are too limited in their uses.
#13
#14
Turbo,
These are the straps I was referring to. They are dedicated vehicle straps, sometimes called "axle straps".
The end that wraps around the axle, or suspension, has a loop and a hook that clips back around onto itself.
There is only strap that goes around the axle or suspension (like a lower A-arm for example). And therefore there is no marring of the paint or finish on the axle housing or A-arm.
I've never had an issue using these, and certainly never had a problem with the flat hook side that clips to the stake pockets on my trailer. I have many other straps from small to large for strapping down other miscellaneous cargo, etc. But I only use this style strap for hauling vehicles.
Other straps for other things:
(And yes, it's snowing, which is why I actually took this pic)
These are the straps I was referring to. They are dedicated vehicle straps, sometimes called "axle straps".
The end that wraps around the axle, or suspension, has a loop and a hook that clips back around onto itself.
There is only strap that goes around the axle or suspension (like a lower A-arm for example). And therefore there is no marring of the paint or finish on the axle housing or A-arm.
I've never had an issue using these, and certainly never had a problem with the flat hook side that clips to the stake pockets on my trailer. I have many other straps from small to large for strapping down other miscellaneous cargo, etc. But I only use this style strap for hauling vehicles.
Other straps for other things:
(And yes, it's snowing, which is why I actually took this pic)
#15
Thanks for the pictures...they're definitely worth a 1000 words. I'll look for some straps like that for the rear of the truck.
The front wheel straps, E-Tracks, and the load distribution hitch arrived this weekend. I finally got the trailer titled and put plates on it. I should have taken a picture of how the license plate is partial covered by the bar for the loading ramps. I'm thinking it would be used to fill an officer's ticket quota. I'll put up a pic soon to see what everyone else thinks...move it or leave it.
The front wheel straps, E-Tracks, and the load distribution hitch arrived this weekend. I finally got the trailer titled and put plates on it. I should have taken a picture of how the license plate is partial covered by the bar for the loading ramps. I'm thinking it would be used to fill an officer's ticket quota. I'll put up a pic soon to see what everyone else thinks...move it or leave it.