old ford owner... new tree line find
#91
I know this is a bit off topic for this thred but I would like to find a set of oem alcoa alum. rims for this truck. they where on it but PO kept them for his cattle trailer. Seem hard to find, unless its for the newer super dutys or excursions but they wont fit from what Ive read. Why would ford change size from 8x165 to 8x170 are you kidding me???
This came to mind as I was writing this post! LOL
This came to mind as I was writing this post! LOL
#92
This is the one I bought Tuesday at my local Ford dealer.
Notice the part number ends in "B" and is "Majority Content Made in USA" which is nice. I didn't think the "B" parts were still available. It was easy to talk the price down from $40 to $30 and then I used my program points. That brought the cost down to just over $14 for the CPS.
This dealership changed hands recently and I'm still deciding how much I trust them. The parts guy I have worked with for a long time is still there, so the new owners have that going for them.
So far, I have not been impressed with their service guys. I have a lifetime oil change from the previous dealership owner. These service guys have forgotten to reconnect my battery cables after an oil change. It's nice they're doing a multipoint inspection during the oil change, but shouldn't the inspection checklist state to reconnect the battery cables at some point?
Edit:
On a side note, with the CPS prices the way they are now, it's cheaper to order the "Blue" CPS from Riffraff. I'm thinking of doing that anyway. The EBP Sensor and Line are MUCH cheaper from Riffraff, too. I'm told by the accident repair shop that the EBP Sensor needs replacing, too, so thought I would do some comparison shopping while I was at Clay's site.
Notice the part number ends in "B" and is "Majority Content Made in USA" which is nice. I didn't think the "B" parts were still available. It was easy to talk the price down from $40 to $30 and then I used my program points. That brought the cost down to just over $14 for the CPS.
This dealership changed hands recently and I'm still deciding how much I trust them. The parts guy I have worked with for a long time is still there, so the new owners have that going for them.
So far, I have not been impressed with their service guys. I have a lifetime oil change from the previous dealership owner. These service guys have forgotten to reconnect my battery cables after an oil change. It's nice they're doing a multipoint inspection during the oil change, but shouldn't the inspection checklist state to reconnect the battery cables at some point?
Edit:
On a side note, with the CPS prices the way they are now, it's cheaper to order the "Blue" CPS from Riffraff. I'm thinking of doing that anyway. The EBP Sensor and Line are MUCH cheaper from Riffraff, too. I'm told by the accident repair shop that the EBP Sensor needs replacing, too, so thought I would do some comparison shopping while I was at Clay's site.
#93
Sorry I've been away for a bit, been helping my DAD get his beans in the field
before he has hip surgery this weds. and will be down for several weeks.
I haven't had much time to work on the truck at all but have been getting parts lined up and researching how to do some more repairs on it.
Got 3 gals. of the fleet charge(Pink)anti freeze and some DI water to dulote it with. Any tips on how to flush the coolant system in the 7.3? looked on you tube but all I can find is coolant filter installs? should I just drain radiator refill it w the good stuff and run it for a month and repeat the same step in order to get whatever the PO had in it?
Also haven't worked on fuel leak yet, from what I've read here sounds like it could be fuel bowl drain o-rings? any way I can comform this before taring it all apart?
before he has hip surgery this weds. and will be down for several weeks.
I haven't had much time to work on the truck at all but have been getting parts lined up and researching how to do some more repairs on it.
Got 3 gals. of the fleet charge(Pink)anti freeze and some DI water to dulote it with. Any tips on how to flush the coolant system in the 7.3? looked on you tube but all I can find is coolant filter installs? should I just drain radiator refill it w the good stuff and run it for a month and repeat the same step in order to get whatever the PO had in it?
Also haven't worked on fuel leak yet, from what I've read here sounds like it could be fuel bowl drain o-rings? any way I can comform this before taring it all apart?
#94
I did get new front fenders I found on CL, new rims and new tires, just waiting to get other repairs done first before putting them on. I also did get the 6637 air cleaner installed and love it so far. Here is what I got for wheels and tires, set them in front of stock just to see what it will look like...
#95
There are block drain plugs, one on each side. One of them is behind the starter and a pain to get at and the other is near the oil cooler. Maybe someone will come up with a picture. A lot of water comes out of those plugs. If the one near oil cooler is froze, pull the block heater, that will drain that side.
#97
#99
#100
Agreed, mine has been damp in the past as well and I've never had an issue. It pulls air in from 360* around the filter, so one side being wet in one spot isn't an issue. Even if the whole thing was soaked and you got moisture into the intake, if moisture in the intake was an issue, there wouldn't be guys paying hundreds of dollars to add water injection systems to their trucks!
#103