Evans Waterless Coolant in a 6.7?
#1
Evans Waterless Coolant in a 6.7?
Okay, I've searched the forum pretty thoroughly, I've found some info on a coolant swap to EWC, but none on a 6.7.
I'm debating doing this, but not 100% comfortable with the idea.....yet.
As I see it:
Advantages:
No water=
Less corrosion
Less system pressure
Last the life of the vehicle (supposedly)
Higher boiling point
Disadvantages:
Expensive initially
System needs 3% or less water content (I'd need to have a shop flush the system, more expense)
Not readily available, if you have issues where you have coolant loss
Has anyone tried it in a 6.7? Like I said, what I like the most about it (if it does as advertised) is less corrosion and pressure, both of which seems to be an enemy to these cooling systems. I'm just hesitant to try it because our cooling systems are prone to issues.
So what are your thoughts?
I'm debating doing this, but not 100% comfortable with the idea.....yet.
As I see it:
Advantages:
No water=
Less corrosion
Less system pressure
Last the life of the vehicle (supposedly)
Higher boiling point
Disadvantages:
Expensive initially
System needs 3% or less water content (I'd need to have a shop flush the system, more expense)
Not readily available, if you have issues where you have coolant loss
Has anyone tried it in a 6.7? Like I said, what I like the most about it (if it does as advertised) is less corrosion and pressure, both of which seems to be an enemy to these cooling systems. I'm just hesitant to try it because our cooling systems are prone to issues.
So what are your thoughts?
#2
I really don't know how to challenge the decision? From what I can tell my thermostats close and open a lot while I drive, temps fluctuate a lot while going steady speed and flat terrain. As long as the thermal efficiency isn't drastically different I don't imagine that it would change anything. I mean, will the various coolers/heat exchangers work too efficiently or not enough? Will the flow rates and cavitation issues be too good, or better, or same?
Then there's engine/fuel/emissions. Will the temp sensors be affected by possibly seeing cooler than expected? I can see the possibility of having fuel consumption changed? Will it run rich trying to get hotter to compensate? I know you're deleted so the myriad of sensors won't be active but on a stock truck would there be hidden challenges in the computer readings, parameters, fuel and air stuff?
I have no idea, I'm probably over thinking things but with these crazy systems if you change one thing it's like the old snowball effect.
Then there's engine/fuel/emissions. Will the temp sensors be affected by possibly seeing cooler than expected? I can see the possibility of having fuel consumption changed? Will it run rich trying to get hotter to compensate? I know you're deleted so the myriad of sensors won't be active but on a stock truck would there be hidden challenges in the computer readings, parameters, fuel and air stuff?
I have no idea, I'm probably over thinking things but with these crazy systems if you change one thing it's like the old snowball effect.
#3
It's "supposed" to prevent cavitation, but as I stated, I'm just reading from "their" claims.
High Performance Coolant » Evans Cooling
Thanks for responding, there are alot of sharp individuals on here that can answer questions I didn't even know to ask! And I like an unbiased opinion or thoughts from folks that have used a product. I find it hard to trust ANY companies marketing department.
High Performance Coolant » Evans Cooling
Thanks for responding, there are alot of sharp individuals on here that can answer questions I didn't even know to ask! And I like an unbiased opinion or thoughts from folks that have used a product. I find it hard to trust ANY companies marketing department.
#4
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
That's all I'd normally type, but since we're friends...I'll bore you with my explanation. If your truck isn't over heating, I don't see the point in being the guinea pig. Too much to lose, to little to gain. Let Walker show you data on a 6.7 and then maybe. I've not had any cooling issues and I haven't heard of anyone else having cooling issues. I would think it would be more beneficial to just change the fluid on the severe cycle (which most deleted guys do anyway). That's just my opinion, but you are taking a risk on improving something that doesn't necessarily need improving to me. I'd replace the rad with a Mishimoto before I'd go waterless in mine.
All that being said, the Evans waterless coolant is nothing new and it's done fantastic in every application that I've run across it in. I'd be curious as heck to see how it performs and lowers temps. I just wouldn't be willing to be the test truck to gain the knowledge. Risk>perceived gain.
That's all I'd normally type, but since we're friends...I'll bore you with my explanation. If your truck isn't over heating, I don't see the point in being the guinea pig. Too much to lose, to little to gain. Let Walker show you data on a 6.7 and then maybe. I've not had any cooling issues and I haven't heard of anyone else having cooling issues. I would think it would be more beneficial to just change the fluid on the severe cycle (which most deleted guys do anyway). That's just my opinion, but you are taking a risk on improving something that doesn't necessarily need improving to me. I'd replace the rad with a Mishimoto before I'd go waterless in mine.
All that being said, the Evans waterless coolant is nothing new and it's done fantastic in every application that I've run across it in. I'd be curious as heck to see how it performs and lowers temps. I just wouldn't be willing to be the test truck to gain the knowledge. Risk>perceived gain.
#5
Trust me Andre, I'm smelling what you're stepping in! I'm basically in the same place, I tend to get bored and look for new ways to get myself in trouble! The Mishimoto will be installed if I ever have issues with the stock system. I was just curious to real world experience with EWC and if it's actually worth the expense and perceived benefits.
The whole reason for the thread, I've yet to meet anyone that has used it in our trucks and I do not want to be a guinea pig on something that critical.
Not sure why I'm even thinking about it at this point, I still have new components waiting to be installed! Can't leave well enough alone, I guess!
The whole reason for the thread, I've yet to meet anyone that has used it in our trucks and I do not want to be a guinea pig on something that critical.
Not sure why I'm even thinking about it at this point, I still have new components waiting to be installed! Can't leave well enough alone, I guess!
#6
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Edmonton Alberta
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I was going to put it in 2 years ago when I did the turbo. I did some research back then and there was no info on it and the 6.7. I talked to a couple of local techs and they both didn't think it would be an issue but didn't really know.
Someone told me that it should operate at 0 pressure so you would need a different cap. One guy told me that they just drilled a small hole in the existing caps (on 6.4's) and it worked fine, IDK about that one......
Someone else told me there MAY be issues with the gasket at the turbo base and the cooling passages but not sure I buy that one either ....
(sorry not much for details, it was 2 years ago and I can't remember what I had for breakfast)
I had convinced myself to do it and all fired up I called EVANS and got technical services!! I asked if you could use their coolant on the ford 6.7 and which one to use and the guy said .................. "I do not know". I asked where I could get it in canada and he said ..............."I have no idea, maybe check our web site". I was done, I hung up. I called the shop and told them to get some orange and throw it in.
If that conversation had gone better I would probably be running it now. It was possibly the most underwhelming customer service experience of my life.
Anyway .... definitely let us know what you find please. I may still do it at the next coolant change.
Thanks
Someone told me that it should operate at 0 pressure so you would need a different cap. One guy told me that they just drilled a small hole in the existing caps (on 6.4's) and it worked fine, IDK about that one......
Someone else told me there MAY be issues with the gasket at the turbo base and the cooling passages but not sure I buy that one either ....
(sorry not much for details, it was 2 years ago and I can't remember what I had for breakfast)
I had convinced myself to do it and all fired up I called EVANS and got technical services!! I asked if you could use their coolant on the ford 6.7 and which one to use and the guy said .................. "I do not know". I asked where I could get it in canada and he said ..............."I have no idea, maybe check our web site". I was done, I hung up. I called the shop and told them to get some orange and throw it in.
If that conversation had gone better I would probably be running it now. It was possibly the most underwhelming customer service experience of my life.
Anyway .... definitely let us know what you find please. I may still do it at the next coolant change.
Thanks
#7
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#9
#10
I have also wanted to go evans in my 6.4, but same thing, not many people have done it.
It is waterless, so no corrosion, no reactions, no cavitation, etc.
Bad news is, it does carry less heat away than water, but it is plausible that since there is no cavitation, it might actually carry more heat away from places that develop hot spots.
In more recent threads, I noticed they now have a 3psi cap for using it, because guys seem to be unable to remove 100% of the water, and some of them had problems with water in the waterless coolant causing cavitation damage.
To really do it properly, you would have to drain the coolant system and really dry it out somehow.
There is definitely many ways this coolant could save a ton of money though.
It is waterless, so no corrosion, no reactions, no cavitation, etc.
Bad news is, it does carry less heat away than water, but it is plausible that since there is no cavitation, it might actually carry more heat away from places that develop hot spots.
In more recent threads, I noticed they now have a 3psi cap for using it, because guys seem to be unable to remove 100% of the water, and some of them had problems with water in the waterless coolant causing cavitation damage.
To really do it properly, you would have to drain the coolant system and really dry it out somehow.
There is definitely many ways this coolant could save a ton of money though.
#11
Cruising the web, I found that Evans Cooling recommends using their prep fluid to make sure you have displaced all of the water, so, the coolant is +/- $40.00 per gal and the prep is +/- 35.00 per gallon with no labor if you DIY it, $525.00. But, you can filter the prep fluid and reuse if needed, and the coolant is a lifetime product.
You should have even heat distribution with no hot spots.....I still have concerns with compatibility with our components though.
You should have even heat distribution with no hot spots.....I still have concerns with compatibility with our components though.
#12
It's no secret that avoiding water is a huge benefit.
The only issue, is that water is better at holding heat.
On the flip side, if water is bubbling and cavitating, it quickly loses that ability.
I always thought of using diesel fuel as a coolant.
It should work much like evans.
If there was ever a leak, I would assume the truck would burn to the pavement though lol.
#15
Test data
Some interesting data on Evans coolant from (it seems) a competitor. Cylinder temp increase of 115-140F in normal operation would be a no-go for me.
No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers
No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers