Tim and I've been talking about what it takes to adapt a ZF5 to a 335 Series engine, and I think he's come up with a good solution - a billet flywheel. Yes, we think that's all it will take to solve the three problems that arise: Spline engagement; pilot bearing engagement; and clutch sizing. But, this thread is to see if you agree.

Tim's idea is to machine a new flywheel that bolts to the 335 engines with the factory bolts, so there's no need for new, and expensive, "place bolts" to attach the original flywheel to the crank through an adapter. And the flywheel will be drilled to accept the 460's 12" pressure plate so there's no need to piece things together by using a 460 clutch disk under a 335 Series pressure plate. Plus, he would include a pilot bearing bushing so the pilot bearing that comes in a 460 clutch kit would work. In addition, that would mean the throw out bearing in the 460 clutch kit would work. On top of that, the flywheel would place the ring gear at the factory location for a 335 Series engine so the original starter can be used.

The alternative is for Tim to make the adapter that spaces the flywheel back. But, then you'll need the place bolts, a 460's clutch disk and pilot bearing, a 351M or 400 pressure plate, a Dodge throw out bearing, and a 460 starter. But, even then there are only a few 460 clutch plates that will fit under the 335 pressure plate without interference, and they are the smaller-diameter ones. Or, he could supply a 400 flywheel that is drilled to accept a 460's pressure plate, but that may not reduce the overall price much as the saved cost in clutch parts is offset by the cost of drilling the flywheel and you having to ship yours to him.

Tim is thinking that the billet flywheel will run somewhere around $300, which looks to me like a bargain. I know that I spent easily that much in buying the place bolts, assorted clutch components, throw out bearing, and different starter. But, what do you think? Are we missing anything needed to make the ZF work with the M/400? Is the flywheel the way to go?

 

I vote for the billet flywheel. [K.I.S.S. thinking]

 

Well, that might have been a bit premature. Just got this note back from Tim: Stop the presses. Visited with the machinist, and between the two lathes we will not be able to do a flywheel.

So, I guess we are back to Plan B: An adapter, place bolts, and a 400 flywheel drilled to accept a 460 pressure plate. But, that's still a lot better than the do-it-yourself approach I took. Thoughts?

 

Well I apologize for stopping and going on this project.
Gary has been kind enough to share this information.
As of a few minutes ago, I was visiting with my machinist and
he said there may be a very good possibility of making the flywheel.
So at this point it is a maybe.
Love to hear everybody's feedback on this idea.

And thanks Gary for helping out on this.

 

Tim - I do hope the flywheel can be made as it is such a clean solution. The adaptor and re-drilled flywheel works, but the new flywheel makes it a slam-dunk.

 

I also would MUCH rather use a new flywheel than retrofitting the old....

 

The billet flywheel will be thicker? That eliminates the spacer that sits the flywheel back? If so, how does that eliminate having to use the smaller clutch pressure plate for clearance issues? I can see how the thicker flywheel solves the starter problem.

 

Dave - The M/400 flywheels are the same diameter as those for the 460's. So Tim is planning to drill the flywheel to take the 460's pressure plate and the user will just buy a complete clutch kit - for far less than piecing it together from 400 parts here and 460 parts there.

As for the thickness, I don't know how much material will be taken off the front side as Tim hasn't said. But, I would think that it would have to be fairly thin to keep the weight down, so that means taking a lot of material off.

 

Would this new flywheel come complete, with the correct ring gear shrunk on?

Tim, thanks for taking an interest in our old trucks, and all the gofast goodies for 335's!

 

Our goal is as Gary mentioned.
To create a simple bolt together package.
The flywheel will some with the ring gear installed and
balanced to OE external specs.
We would also offer a neutral balance flywheel.

 

What is the question over being able to do the flywheel? Is it a design issue, or just that particular machine shop's lathes?

 

I think it is something to do with the lathes as the email said something like "between the two lathes we won't be able to do it." However, the machinist may have come up with something as Tim later seemed to think it might be possible.

Tim - Ken is the one that gave me the way to make the adapter very precisely, so he might be able to suggest a way you can make the flywheel if we knew what the issue is.

 

Remember this is a piece of steel 15" in diameter.
Holding the material.
Enough movement in the machine.
As the machinist and I talked, we can remove the hyd live center.
Then we have to make a face plate to mount the material on.
Being able to grab the material from the outside is not possible at all.
I am feeling confident that we can do it, but at this point we are tackling the adapter and re-drilling program for the flywheel.

 

Kinda what I thought. I had the same issues in making the spacer. Ken suggested turning the front of the spacer first, and then turning an adapter that was exactly the dimensions of the crank and leaving it chucked in the lathe. Bolt the spacer to the faux crank and then machine the back of the spacer. If you turned the adaptor and left it chucked up you could bolt partially-made flywheels to it and machine the back sides.

 

The adapter is 3.750" diameter, that really easy to handle.
15" is really pushing it.