Just looking at the picture you are not hooked up to anything. not 6v or 12 v so you will need to get the mainline wiring straight 1st off. The r&w wires out of the wire bundle should be the power for the coach, but as noted earlier they require 12v and you are not thus configured as presently wired.

I dont know what the white wire at the + term is connected to do you? From the picture it would appear white is + r -. I know I have seen some with 2 wires to the positive so maybe whoever installed screwed up on this. But as I said you have NOTHING at this time per the picture.

 

The #10s are fine hand crimped. It's as I said about the heavy cables which have a crappy crimp and may not have enough 'bite' for a good current transfer --- and the possible reason for supplemental pieces of wire to make that up or the lack of actual cable Awg size, depending on the current load for that trailer. If a positive goes directly to another positive and negative to negative between the batteries - they are useless as far as anything besides making up a loss of current carrying ability

 

The red and white 10 gauge are both getting the same voltage and if grounded it would be 6v to either since, essentially, they are both connected to the same point. Albeit the opposite ends of the same 0 gauge connecting cable. However, I would guess that the person wiring them was thinking red would be + and white -. However, since it's a 6v setup all they are providing is continuity with each other being connected to the same point. If indeed they are meant to supply 12v they would need to be moved to the outside terminals of the two 6v's. As Steve said, you have to find out what's at the other end first. I'd say nothing that's running because all either of them are getting is 6v+ and no ground (present).

 

I guess where this gets crazy for me is there is not even a reported problem and it would only take a few minutes to figure out where these leads go. Since they are running to the batteries, code requires a fuse within 18" of the batteries so there should be a starting point.

Then given the gauge, there are only a couple of things in an RV that even require that kind of amperage so again that narrows the field greatly. You are not going to find 10 ga. in the distribution panel inside the RV so the connections are either running directly to something or to a secondary panel in a bay. If they are for a solar prep and were not labeled, pull the solar controller and see what is connected to it.

When in doubt, if you find a red and white same gauge and are not sure it is them, disconnect at the battery, tie the ends together, and check for continuity between the other ends.

Steve

 

That's where the other end of the wires go.

It only took a couple minutes to confirm my suspicions. There is no charge controller though. On the Zamp website, the controller comes with their panel.

Why the dealer decided to hook the wires up that way I have no idea. Good thing I plan on installing my own solar setup and not using the prewired one.

Thanks for all your input though guys!

 

So you know for sure and a very simple fix. I suspect whoever hooked it up wasn't considering battery layout. I am used to seeing solar preps at the battery with a label and not connected.

 

Ah, the Zamp wires. My RV came pre-wired for a Zamp panel too. The dealer just hooked the wires to the battery wrong. Mine, they didn't even bother to hook up the Zamp inlet and the wires were just left zip tied up near the battery. Zamp gives away the prewire kits for free to the OEM's in hopes that the end user will buy their product because their RV is already prewired for it. Good marketing plan. I have permanent mount solar on the roof but will find a use for that neat little plug eventually.

 

Normally the preps I see are are not ties to the battery, but is that all you get are the two 10ga wires? Do you have to pay for that?

Steve

 

No, the Zamp is free as a marketing tool. Free to the OEM and free to the customer. It's just a plug, a few feet of wire, and a sticker.

 

So really it is just the OEM taking a few minutes to run the wire. As long as it is free to the customer, that's not bad!

 

Zamp looks at it as free advertising...

 

As if I needed further confirmation, the dealership finally got back to me. They said that it is indeed the Zamp. Never answered why they hooked it up that way.